Visit architecture in gorgeous Fez

Let me examine some of the connections between Morocco and Europe I was familiar with. Visitors to the Paros Gallery in Greece should see the Sèvres Imperial Hunting tea service 1812, commissioned by Napoleon as a gift his second wife Empress Marie-Louise. The porcelain and silver gilt cups, saucers and pots each have an individual hunting scene, painted by French artist Jean Francois Robert. Each object slotted into a Morocco leather box, so servants could carry the porcelain wherever the courtiers wanted. The exhibition Napoleon: Revolution to Empire even came to Australia.

                                                  

In 1882 Englishman William Quilliam went to Southern France to recover from stress. Then he decided to cross the Mediterranean to North Africa, to visit Morocco and Algeria. He had ?nurtured a quiet interest in Islam before, but it was in North Africa that his lure to Islam became public. He converted formerly, calling himself Abdullah. Quilliam then accused Prime Minister William Gladstone of wilfully ignoring Christian crimes against Muslims. Fortunately Quilliam received support from his Islamic leaders abroad. He was made the Sheikh of Britain/leader of British Muslims by the last Ottoman emperor and was honoured by the Sultan Shah of Persia. But aggravation of Liverpool’s Muslim community eventually forced Liverpool’s mosque to close.

Claude Monet already admired those French artists who'd trav­elled to create Orientalist subject matter. Especially Eugène Dela­croix, the artist whose colours were influenced by visiting Morocco in 1832. Monet hoped a posting to Algeria would enable him to study the special light, subject matter and colour that could never be found in France.

What caught Viennese artist Rudolf Ernest’s interest was Orientalist art de­pict­ing the imagined repr­es­entation of the East by European artists, not by locals. Ernst’s Orientalist era began in 1885 when he travelled to Spain, Morocco and Tunisia. There he was able to sketch and ph­oto­graph the lo­cals’ daily life so these im­ages would later become colourful canv­as­es and int­er­iors. This was a major turning point for Ernest who loved colourful, exotic Orient­alism, espec­ially Islamic mosques and harem scenes.

In 1912, Australian artist Hilde Rix left to study in London & Paris, and enjoyed spending long periods in Tangier Morocco. There the colour and light, different from Northern France, reminded her of Australia. She championed the diverse culture of Morocco, carefully recording the public life of the market place, especially the role of women in it. Staying at Tangier's famous Hotel Villa de France at the same time as Henri Matisse, she depicted some of his sites and models.

Rix's drawings and paintings of Morocco added to her fame! A large painting was shown at Salon des Artistes Francais 1911 and many works were included in exhibitions conducted by Paris’ Societe des Peintres Orientalistes. In 1912 the French government bought her work Grand Marche Tangier, for the Luxembourg Gallery. Art articles about Rix appeared in The Studio, London and Notre Gazette Paris.

I’ve often referred to Orientalist art in this blog i.e by late C19th French, British, German and Russian artists who spent time in Algeria, Morocco, Tunisia, Egypt and Israel. See their paintings of  crafts, male guards and life in the harem. But in my blog there were few references to Orientalist architecture. So I asked my late son, a travel agent in Israel, where in Morocco his clients loved most.

Bab Bou Jeloud, ornate city gate in Fes el Bali, the old city of Fez

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The historic city of Fez, Morocco’s cultural gem, is a city that weaves the nation’s past and present, providing a fascinating look into the country’s traditions. Wander through the winding streets of Fes el-Bali and admire the architectural splendours of its madrasas; let eyes absorb the vibrant atmosphere, indulge in the sights, sounds and flavours of this special city, and let Fez fill their memories.

In North Morocco, Fez witnessed the nation’s rich heritage and vibrant culture. With winding streets, great architecture and old traditions, Fez invites travellers to immerse themselves in the 1000-year history. This city served as the capital of Morocco for several dynasties and remains a centre of learning, craftsmanship and religious devotion. 

Fez Souk

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The historic Fez el-Bali Medina is a UNESCO World Heritage site which hasn’t changed much. Explore the derbs/narrow winding streets and examine the architecture of the ancient buildings. Discover traditional Moroccan riads/guest houses, bustling markets and hidden wonderful Chouara Tanneries, where leather has long been dyed using traditional methods.

 

Chouara Tanneries
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Visit the prestigious Al-Qarawiyyin University, founded in the C9th by Fatima al-Fihri. Recognised as the oldest continuously operating university in the world, this educational institution played a vital role in the community’s intellectual development. Non-Muslims stay out of the prayer area, but can admire the architectural grandeur of the university’s courtyards and library.

Bou Inania Madrasa is great Moroccan architecture. This C14th religious school displays intricate stucco carvings, mosaic tiles and a tranquil courtyard adorned with marble columns. See the detailed craftsmanship and appreciate the peace of this spiritual haven.

Experience the opulent Attarine Medersa, a C14th theological college. Admire the intricately carved cedarwood doors, elegant zellij tilework and delicate plasterwork on the walls. The medersa showcases the special craftsmanship of Moroccan artisans, taking visitors to an early era of artistic excellence.

See Nejjarine Museum of Wood Arts & Crafts. Housed in a well restored caravanserai/inn, it used to be for travelling merchants who stored and sold their goods below, and lodged on the floors above. Now the museum shows great examples of woodwork: intricately carved doors, ceilings and furniture with a beautiful, tiled fountain outside the entrance. The techniques and history here have shaped the city’s architectural landscape. Centred on a courtyard, the rooms display traditional artefacts eg craftsmen’s tools, prayer beads, chests and musical instruments. The rooftop cafe has great views over the medina.

Dar al-Makhzen is the royal palace of the King of Morocco

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