19 April 2022

Orient Express Train, wealth, royalty, violence and sex - 1889


Fr­ancisco Maria de Borbón, Duke de Marchena, died 1923
Wikidata

Duchess of Marchena, Maria del Pilar de Muguiro, died 1926
Geneanet

By the late C19th, most European countries were connected by rail, yet train travel was often dirty, unreliable and with tricky border cross­ings. It was Belgian Georges Nagel-mackers who fell in love with the popular Pullman sleeper cars in the USA: clean, comfortable, hotel-like passenger cars designed for long trips. With the Belle Epoque starting to bloom, Nagelmackers saw an untapped demand for a new kind of travel, one that would combine glamour and luxury. So using the Pullman model, Pullman set about designing a sumptuous sleeper train in Europe.

By 1873 Nagelmackers formed his own company, Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits. His huge vision was one that would sweep pass­en­gers from Paris to Constantinople in luxurious sleeper cars, without having to stop at 8 national borders. But the vision required a powerful patron, and King Leopold II of Belgium was that man. The CIWL soon provided top quality catering and accom­modation in the form of sleeper carriages, saloon carriages and dining cars. The lavish menu was matched with Bordeaux and Burgundy wines and quality French champagne. And the crystal glasses and silver cutlery impressed even the wealthy.

The Orient Express was revolutionary for the Belle Epoque cosmopolitans. A trip on the Orient Express quickly became a must for monarchs, millionaires and anyone who wanted to be part of Eur­opean high soc­iety. This was the train’s golden age! Convenient in­tercontinental transport, yes, but important for royalty, diplomacy, lux­ury and romance. Royals eg Prince of Wales and Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria, were reg­ulars. As were Kings Leopold II of Belgium & Ferd­in­and I of Bulgaria. Then mon­archs and aristocrats were joined by polit­icians, ad­venturers like Law­rence of Arabia, and famous figures from the arts. Elegance was mandat­ory, with a rigid protocol observed aboard in dress & behaviour.  

Orient Express saloon car
shared by all the guests on board, 1889
National Geographic History

Orient Express Dining Car with Lalique Inlay
Pinterest

Orient Express arrived every day at the fine Budapest’s Keleti Station. And when they chose Constantinople as the last stop in 1880s, the train left to continue on the journey eastward several times a week. Constantinople began to attract a new crowd: the ennobled and the monied classes of Europe. At first there were no hotels in the city that could meet the high standards of these Orient Express passengers. So Compagnie Inter­nationale de Wagon Lits bought Pera Palace Hotel. The Compagnie picked guests up from the train terminus in Istanbul and got them accom­modated in this, the classiest hotel. It was the first building to have electric­ity, elev­at­ors, and bathrooms with the only running hot water in the city. Tall spacious rooms were lit by magnificent chandeliers.

Agatha Christie made train-based crimes very well known & very pop­ular. This was not a problem as she based her fiction on real events; spies really did travel by Orient Express and some actual murders really did take place on board!

What I did not know of was a case involving the Spanish Duchess of Marchena, Maria del Pilar de Muguiro (1889-1981). She had married Fr­ancisco Maria de Borbón, Duke de Marchena (1861-1923) and cousin of King Alfonso XII, in 1886 in Madrid. Francisco was mentally unstable and violent, but owing to his royal status, divorce was impossible.

The Duchess, reputed to be one of the richest women in Spain, was tra­velling on the Orient Express in 1889. After leaving Paris, she app­ear­ed in the saloon with a swollen face, having been assaulted by her own husband. Another passenger, Basil Zaharoff, came to her aid and had the authorities arrest the violent Duke.

This Basil Zaharoff turned out to be a VERY wealthy, leading Greek arms dealer and a close col­league of world leaders like British Prime Min­ist­er David Lloyd George, Greek Prime Minister Ven­izelos and Ottoman Sultan Abdul Hamid II. Zaharoff had a very dodgy reputation, selling inadequate equipment to both sides of each war, at the same time. But he was rarely charged in court with bribery etc.

Duchess of Marchena married Sir Basil Zah­aroff in in 1924
 a second marriage for each of them.

Historians all agree the Duchess was married in 1924 to Sir Basil Zah­aroff, but there is no agreement on how close their friendship had been since the 1889 violent attack on the train. One view was that they had met briefly at the initial meeting, and only slowly had a love story developed, eventually ending in marriage when the Duke of Marchena died in a psychiatric as­ylum in 1923.

The other view was that the dealer and his lover had quickly been estab­lished in a Paris palace, after the Duke was firmly locked up. The Duchess had three daughters, all born in Paris and all after the entry of the Duke in the asylum. The title of Duchess of Marchena would pass to the eldest of her daughters, as promised by King of Spain Alfonso XIII before her remarriage. In any case Zaharoff acknowledged they were his daughters and always treated them as his own, so the best of both worlds for the daughters.



14 comments:

Lillian Marek said...

Helen
this is very relevant. Student of History.

Zaharoff was known as “The Wickedest Man in Europe” and newspapers called him “The Merchant of Death.” He was also given a knighthood by the British government. The French bestowed on him the ribbon of the Grand Cross of the Legion of Honor after Prime Minister Clemenceau assured the Chamber of Deputies that yes, Zaharoff was a French citizen. A gift to writers, he figured as the villain in numerous novels, plays and stories, though these generally leave out the romantic tale of the encounter on the Orient Express.
http://www.lillianmarek.com/blog/romance-orient-express

Joe said...

The train has gorgeous Deco decorations, handsome dining tables and very comfortable beds. But it only goes to Istanbul once a year and the price is beyond ordinary families.

Hels said...

Student

I will go to the Lillian Marek blog straight away and create a link. So thank you.

Despite all those high honours given by governments, Zaharoff seems to have been seen in the public media and in books as a very nasty piece of work.

Hels said...

Joe

since the train only goes to Istanbul once a year now, is it possible that the company has to make all its profits on this particular trip in one go? The itinerary is amazing: Day 1 Paris, Day 2: Hungary, Day 3: Budapest, Day 4: Bucharest, Day 5: Bulgaria and Day 6: Istanbul. But the prices are shocking.

https://www.irtsociety.com/journey/paris-istanbul-annual-journey/

Luiz Gomes said...

Boa tarde. Parabéns pelo seu excelente trabalho e matéria. Não conhecia o tema. Sua explicação foi muito rica e interessante.

Anonymous said...

Great and irresistible title! It is a wonder there wasn't preaching from pulpits about the evils and moral corruption made possible by these luxury trains. Ah, only the rich could afford such travel.

Hels said...

Luiz,

although I have read every journal article about the history of the Orient Express, I too had never heard of the Spanish Duchess of Marchena, the Duke de Marchena or Sir Basil Zaharoff. I imagine that the two men's reputations were largely protected by their Friends in High Places. What a shame that Agatha Christie didn't write a novel based around their lives.

Hels said...

Andrew

right... it was so luxurious and densely packed with royalty, nobility and the extremely wealthy, that I wonder if more sleazy activities happened that we haven't heard about. The glamorous clothes, jewels and furs alone must have made major thefts inevitable.

Parnassus said...

Hello Hels, You are certainly correct about the arms business being both shady and profitable. I am reminded of the famous 1934 article in Fortune called "Arms and the Men". This was a real eye opener, and I could not put it down. I found a reprint of it here:
http://www.fredsakademiet.dk/tid/1900/1934/nye.pdf

Although it is easy to romanticize the relationship of the Duchess of Marchena and Sir Basil Zaharoff, in the end these arms dealers were ruthless people who were willing to sacrifice the world so that they could easily afford a ticket on the Orient Express.
--Jim

Hels said...

Parnassus

ruthless people, selling arms to whoever will buy them, have no moral scruples about who are the nation's allies and who are not. Personal profit is the only consideration.

Furthermore, as you note, is clear that very wealthy people want to socialise with other very wealthy people, in very glamorous settings. And not just wealth. I saw a film tonight about Catherine Middleton, wife of Prince William - the royals didn't want her to marry into the family because her parents were only middle class.

bazza said...

For my fortieth birthday we had a holiday to Venice booked. We had a recent bereavement in the family and everyone was feeling a bit low so my wife, without telling me, had booked the outward journey from London to Venice on the Orient Express. I noticed that she was packing my dinner suit and I asked why on Earth she was doing that - I hardly ever wear any kind of suit! So it was a big surprise and a FABULOUS event.
As you have shown the train has a wonderfully rich history and a strong romantic image in the public's imagination.
CLICK HERE for Bazza’s courageously contumacious Blog ‘To Discover Ice’

hels said...

Your wife took notice of three important elements: your love of history, the glamour of the train, and a happy love life. No wonder the memories are still delightful, all these years later :)

Fun60 said...

I thoroughly enjoyed reading about the Orient Express. In the 70s I had to get to Istanbul as I was then going overland to Kathmandu. I had the great idea of going from London to Istanbul on the Orient Express. The only way I could possibly do it as it was to take all my own food as I couldn't possibly afford to eat on the train. In the end the trip was not for me as I realised it was quite out of my league so I ended up flying to Istanbul. Maybe I should have put all my money into the train journey, you never know who I might have met!

Hels said...

Fun60

Everyone has a wish list that might be realistic or might be just a dreamy fantasy. If going on the Orient Express will always be expensive, then you can wait to win the Lotto, or marry Prince Andrew, or go on a different train whose food and decor are just as glamorous :)

Istanbul is so cool, isn't it?