New impetus for an ocean road came towards the end of WWI. The Country Roads Board contacted the State War Council, asking that funds be provided to repatriate and re-employ returned soldiers on roads in sparsely populated areas. A plan was soon submitted for a South Coast Road to be built by returned soldiers as a memorial to all those who were killed in the Great War. This plan suggested starting at Barwon Heads, following the coast west around Cape Otway and ending near Warrnambool.
It was Geelong mayor Alderman Howard Hitchcock who made the plans happen. By May 1918 he had formed the Great Ocean Rd Trust and set about raising the money to finance the project. He saw it as a way of employing returned WW1 soldiers AND of creating a lasting monument to those who had died in the war. He also had a powerful view of its worth as a tourist attraction, proclaiming it better for its ocean, mountain, river and fern gully scenery than France’s Riviera or San Francisco Road.
hugging the coastline
Map of an early stage of the Great Ocean Road
along the southern coastline of Australia's mainland
Survey work began in Aug 1918 and the returned WW1 soldiers descended on the area to start work. Construction work officially began in Sept 1919, launched by the Premier of Victoria. The first section was to go from Lorne to Cape Patton, 29 ks away. It was back-breaking work with no heavy machinery to help – only picks, shovels and horse-drawn carts. The ex-servicemen lived in camps set up in the bush along the route. Often it was a very dangerous job: the terrain was difficult and the weather was extremely hot or extremely wet. Rock falls were common. Nonetheless the Lorne to Eastern View section was completed in early 1922.
In Nov 1932 Victoria’s Lieut Gov Sir William Irvine declared the road open in front of Lorne's Grand Pacific Hotel, the site where the project's first survey peg had been hammered in 14 years before. The coast roared into life for a weekend of festivities, with residents coming out in droves to celebrate the final link-up of the seaside towns. A procession of cars and schoolchildren lined parts of the route.
Road travellers during the early years paid a toll at gates at Eastern View, where a memorial arch was erected. Drivers paid 2s and 6p, and passengers 1s and 6p. The toll was abolished when the Trust moved to hand over the road as a gift to the State Government, in Oct 1936.
In summary, the Great Ocean Road stretched along the S.E coast of Australia between the cities of Geelong and Warrnambool. This, the world's biggest WW1 memorial, wound around the rugged southern coast and was a huge engineering feat. In total, the road took 16 years to finish, all done by hand using picks, shovels and dynamite. The main gate, a timber arch, has been rebuilt several times.
The Great Ocean Rd Story is a permanent exhibition in the Lorne Visitor Centre – a memorial to Australia's diggers who died while fighting in WWI. The visitors' centre was built to provide some basic facilities for the thousands of tourists who visit each year.
The road still offers outstanding views of Bass Strait and the Southern Ocean, one of the most photogenic coastlines in the world, with striking and dramatic natural rock formations. These formations include the Grotto, London Bridge and especially the Twelve Apostles (fewer now).
Wander through beautifully preserved historic buildings, in towns en route, that capture the region's colourful past. Charming National Trust-classified homes, modest cottages and stately buildings are everywhere you look in Port Fairy, while Portland, Victoria's first European settlement, is an old and charming place on the edge of a harbour once busier than Melbourne.
The Twelve Apostles
Port Campbell
Loch Ard Gorge
Port Campbell National Park
Discover the tragic shipwreck history of Victoria's coast. Visit shipwreck sites along the coastline, examine local lore at the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village and visit historic light-houses. Learn the tragedy of the Loch Ard Gorge near Port Campbell in 1878, one of the most infamous of Victoria's ship wrecks. Stroll on the beaches on the iconic Great Ocean Walk. And spend time exploring the Australian National Surfing Museum in Victoria's surf capital of Torquay.
Today the Great Ocean Road is Victoria’s top tourist attraction with 2.7 million visitors, more than Uluru and the Great Barrier Reef combined. But it is not just increased traffic that is creating headaches. Flash flooding caused landslides near Wye River in 2016, and Apollo Bay beach erosion increased from 9 centimetres per year in 2012 to 1 metre in 2016. In 2018 a storm surge caused chunks of an Apollo Bay car park and facilities to fall into the ocean, leaving only a five-metre sliver of land between sea and the road. 30 buses use the road every day, and up to 80 at peak times. Most people head straight to the main attraction: the Twelve Apostles. Perhaps a levy or road toll on visitors could be part of a new funding model.
Coronavirus aside, today is 25th April, ANZAC Day. Lest we forget.
22 comments:
The Great Ocean Road was one of the highlights for me when I visited Australia in 2012. I am saddened to hear of the erosion.
We always found Sydney more attractive than Melbourne. But when my late husband drove down the Great Ocean Rd for the first time, we did agree that Victoria had some great views.
Hi Hels - it's an amazing road ... I've read up about it ... and one day I'd love to visit. A good choice to remind us of Anzac Day ... thank you ... all the best - Hilary
Fun60
Being directly open to the Southern Ocean gives the southern coast of the continent unprecedented sea views and coastalscapes. But even if we ignore buses and trucks for the moment, the coast has little protection from the water and the winds. I wonder if climate change since 1918 has been particularly difficult.
Sister in law,
Ahh Sydney people always say that.. Better surf beaches, more nightclubs, the Bridge, the Opera House etc :) But I know how much you loved Torquay, Apollo Bay, Portland etc..and planned to return one day.
Be healthy
Sink
Many thanks for commenting. I need to know what language you are using, in order to get a translation.
Hilary
ANZAC Day this year has been very tricky this year since people have not been able to visit the Shrine or share in dawn services. Lots of families found other ways to remember their grandfathers, however, on TV or by standing in their driveways pre-dawn.
No more war!
Hello Hels, The Great Ocean Road sounds like a wonderful memorial, partly by being such a great asset to Australia. I have been on some other scenic roads (down the California coast, along the Florida coast, and through the Everglades to the Florida Keys) and each required great dedication to build and maintain. Erosion is a special problem on these coastal roads. Probably the only solutions are expensive--protective seawalls or rebuilding further inland, although in the Keys with its long bridges there is not always any inland!
--Jim
Parnassus
agreed. Any state/nation with an ocean-facing coast would have been warmly encouraged to build a very special site for locals and tourists: down the California coast, France’s Riviera or my personal favourite - the Croatian Coast.
But I am even more impressed by the urgency of Great Ocean Rd Trust in 1918, planning ahead for the thousands of young men who would be coming back from WW1. Even if the project required horrible physical labour, it was important to give the ex-soldiers a meaningful role and income back at home.
I think at the very least tourist coaches and mini buses should pay a toll, even though I am generally against tolls to travel on public roads, but clearly something has to be done. Half the visitors don't seem to visit for the experience but only to get those critical selfies at the key spots. They could stay at home and be photoshopped into Great Ocean Road photos.
Andrew
the problem with tolls on public roads is that the wealthy don't even notice them but working families usually have to find alternative routes. So yes to the tourist coaches and mini buses, but even so, far more protective work has to be done to the road and walls.
Perhaps we should be encouraging the Great Ocean Walk :)
https://www.thegreatoceanwalk.com/
Leah and I promised ourselves that, if we ever get to Australia again, we would travel with our friends from Philip Island along the Great Ocean Road and on to Adelaide, if practical.
Now you have whetted the appetite even more. At this time, it's good to have things to think about in out futures!
So sad about Anzac Day and how all over the world people are missing out on family and national events but the amount of ingenuity being shown is really impressive. People are finding ways to express themselves and their feelings. Last week our two youngest grandchildren stood at our garden gate and chatted to us! They just take things in their stride.
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bazza
I did my Gap Year in 1966 on machon in Jerusalem with 119 other students. For the reunion this year, no-one could travel so we all Zoomed at a fixed time. Two weeks ago the Spanish speakers met on Zoom and had a wonderful time. This Sunday night the English speakers met, again a great laugh :) Our children thought it was so easily organised and cheap, we could have done it even before coronavirus.
ANZAC Day ceremonies are held pre-dawn, so much more silent and dark. Even on Zoom, the fire torches and lone bugle were haunting.
Err, yes, the walking sounds like a great thing for the young and the very active. Citylink was supposed to be a free running toll road for the better off, but it has turned into a carpark for rich and poor alike, except the poor pay more proportionally.
Andrew
My idea of a beach walk is:
1. Eat lunch in a pub at one end of the beach. Pop on a hat.
2. Walk the length of the beach, and
3. Find a wine bar at the other end of the beach.
The official Great Ocean Walk covers 100 ks and takes 8 days. Ha ha.. For younger, fitter people, I agree.
I thoroughly enjoyed your post. It had great information that I did not know (but then I don’t know that much about Australia.) It must be quite an enchanting road. The good thing is that you said thousands of Australian WW1 soldiers returned. In my country, France, about 2 millions soldiers died (every family in France had someone killed in that war.) So there were not that many to come back to work.
Vagabonde
I visited the impressive Australian and New Zealand WW1 war memorials in France years ago, and was very grateful to the French people that they gave honour to our young men who died in Europe.
My grandfather spoke excellent Russian, Polish and Yiddish/German, and average French and English, so he acted as a liaison and translation link between the Allies. Even so, he returned home seriously wounded.
The route and its history sound fascinating. It is sad to learn that it is being eroded away.
CherryPie
you must come for a visit, after all planes are flying again. The most beautiful six months are Nov - April inclusive.
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I agree. Whenever friends and relations come from overseas in summer, we often take them on a day trip to that part of the Victorian coastline.
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