The origin of the slouch hat began with the Victorian Mounted Rifles in 1885. The Victorian hat was an ordinary bush felt hat turned up on the right side so it would not be caught during the drill movement of shoulder arms. By 1890, State military commandants had agreed that all Australian forces should wear a looped-up hat of uniform pattern turned up on the right side in Victoria and Tasmania, and on the left in other States, depending on drill movements. The slouch hat became standardised headdress in 1903, a famous symbol of Australian soldiers in WW1 and WW2. Now, as we will see, it is a national symbol.
Slouch hats worn by Armoured Corps men were adorned with emu plumes. This tradition originated with the Queensland Mounted Infantry during the great shearers’ strike in 1891 when the Infantry came to aid the civil power. The soldier rode his horse alongside emus, plucked a breast feather, and placed it on the hats. The Gympie Squadron was the first to wear feathers and the rest of the regiment soon followed. The Queensland government permitted the Regiment to adopt the plume as part of its uniform, in thanks for service. In 1915, Minister for Defence granted all Australian Light Horse units permission to wear the plume.
When killed at Gallipoli, Commander General of Australia’s Imperial Force was found wearing his slouch hat reversed. From then, when the hat was worn at Royal Military College Duntroon, it became usual to wear the chinstrap buckle on the right side and the brim down. Plus wearing the brim down provided additional protection from the sun.
The puggaree originated from the Hindu pagri i.e a thin scarf of muslin. Intended for insulation, the puggaree was a traditional Indian head-wrap, adapted by the British and worn in hot regions. In WW1, a plain khaki cloth band was added and this practice continued until in 1930, new puggarees were issued to Commonwealth Military Force with different coloured folds, denoting Arm or Service. The puggaree has 8 pleats, with 7 representing each state and 1 for the Australian Territories. Made from light khaki cotton it is worn on the slouch hat with a unit colour patch on the right side. Troops who were on active service in the Middle East wore a folded puggaree as a mark of active service.
The word Akubra was ?derived from an Aboriginal word for head covering. Wide-brimmed, fur-felt Akubra hats are a traditional part of outdoor clothing in the Australian bush, protecting wearers from sun and rain. They are still worn by stockmen, hunters, graziers, farmers and horsemen, the rural community accounting for 70% of sales. It was closely associated with Australian identity.
Akubra has been producing high-quality hats since 1874. Founded by Benjamin Dunkerley the company started in Hobart where they created new pieces of machinery for hat making. Workers on the factory floor use traditional felting methods that were available then. But in 1904 they were joined by Stephen Keir who brought his great experience. After Dunkerley died in 1918, ownership of the company shifted to Keir I. Since then the Akubra brand passed down the generations of his family in Kempsey (North Coast NSW).
Hat sales declined in the Depression so the 200+ staff took a 10% pay cut to avoid redundancies. The business re-grew with staff numbers peaking in the 1940s, thanks to ongoing military contracts. When Stephen Keir retired in 1952, production was at a record high. He was succeeded as Managing Director by eldest son, Herbert. 2nd son, Stephen Keir II, became Managing Director 20 years later.
Olympics and films
In 1956, Akubra supplied the Panama straw hats worn by the Australian team at the Melbourne Olympics. By the 1960s consumer production was made of 60% city hats, but when the price of wool rose, the company focused on fur felt hats instead. The purpose-built factory in Kempsey was built in 1972, establishing Akubra as the region’s major employer. In 1982 The Man From Snowy River released and the hat inspired by the film became a staple in the range. It was estimated that 21+ mill hats were made by then. Stephen Keir III became Managing Director in 1980. Son Graham joined in 1972, later as National Sales Manager.
Paul Hogan in Crocodile Dundee 1986 made the Akubra even more sexy.
The film remains the top-earning Australian film at the box office.
Everything Australian
In 1988, Kempsey became The Akubra Home but variations were introduced. The Aussie Gold hat was made for the Australians at LA Games 1984. Greg Norman signed on with Akubra in 1987 and the Great White Shark hat went into production. The Aussie team wore Akubra hats at the Seoul Olympics and another Olympic version for Barcelona Olympics. The Spirit of Australia style arrived for 2000 Sydney Olympics. Another great example of the quality workmanship was found in the Banjo Paterson Akubra, named for the famous Australian poet.
Stephen Keir III retired as Managing Director in Dec 2007, allowing the 4th generation, Stephen Keir IV, to become Managing Director. In 2010, after working with the company for 56+ years, Stephen Keir III stepped down as Chairman of the Board and Stephen Keir IV became Chairman of the Board of Directors. In May 2012 Stephen Keir III died, survived by his wife and former Director Wendy, daughters Stacey and Nikki (both directors of Akubra Hats), son and Chairman of the Board of Directors Stephen Maitland Keir IV.
Jan 26th is Australia Day, the day the nation celebrates the founding of the first British colony in Sydney in 1788. By 2015 Akubra has produced 2 mill hats, still proudly made in Kempsey NSW, and still worn in Australian parades. Thank you to Akubra Story for dates and family names.
10 comments:
Hello Hels, It is interesting to learn how tradition and good design permeated every aspect of the akubra. Slouch hats were also worn by the American military. Everyone in the U.S. knows Whittier's famous Civil War poem Barbara Frietchie, which contains the lines:
"Up the street came the rebel tread,
Stonewall Jackson riding ahead.
Under his slouched hat left and right
He glanced: the old flag met his sight."
Apparently this hat has always been associated with dash and gallantry.
--Jim
I recognized that hat as Australian right away, but I didn't know its name. I think it's a great choice for a "national" hat. I enjoyed reading about its tradition.Have a super weekend.
It is such a great article about Akubra . I knew what they were but never knew the history of it. Akubra hat is an iconic symbol of Australian heritage
Very interesting.
It's funny how these things start off and become established!
That is quite a history and it is wonderful to learn that the hats are still made in Australia. My friend, The Brighton Antique Dealer used to wear an Akubra to antique auctions, thinking being easy to notice and as a regular, gave her an advantage. Rather sadly, such auctions are now done online, and she no longer trades.
Do Australian women wear akubras? Are they the same as the ones men wear?
I really liked this post, and it makes me wonder if any of my daughters or grandchildren know what an Akubra is or what the term slouch hat means.
I love the Akubra and often wish I had one, but mostly they are out of my reach dollarwise. I'll have to check current prices, maybe I can save for one.
The history of akubra hats is interesting.
Congratulations on the thoughtful article and clear writing!
Interesting how the Akubra commenced. I actually like them and used to wear one each day many years ago when riding.
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