21 September 2024

Historic, cultured, beautiful Old Krakow.

In 1960 my first year in high school, there were 120 students - a few from Russian, German or Romanian parents and 114 from Polish parents. They all wanted to re-visit Poland by 1970, especially to see Warsaw,  Krakow and Lublin.

Town hall tower, 
Visit Krakow

Kraków’s Market Square/Ry­nek in Poland is the centre of the city’s medieval Old Town, designed in 1257 when the town first won its charter. Laid out on a grid, the Old Town and its central square changed little in the centuries that followed. Always active, this 40,000 sq ms grouping of cafés, clubs, music centres, mus­eums, historical landmarks and hotels, shows some love­ly medieval architect­ure. Because the Square is surround­ed by eleg­ant town­houses, each with its own name and history, the import­ant histor­ical, cultural and social sig­nificance is largely intact.

In summer, umbrella shaded cafés sit along its sides, shaded from the sun by the gothic spires of St Mary’s Basilica. The church was consecrated in 1320, having an im­p­osing façade and flanked by two differently sized towers. Its crowning gl­ory is Stoss altarpiece, carved between 1477-89 by German-born sculptor Veit Stoss and placed behind the high altar. And because the church experienced many reconstructions of its exterior and inter­ior over the centuries, only three of the original high, stained glass windows were preserved. In the C18th the church was decorated with Bar­oque aesthetics and the wooden door of the galilee was decorated with sculpted heads of prop­h­ets, apostles, and Polish saints in 1929. In snowy winter, the square is full of Christ­mas markets. Visit the square on each hour when St Mary’s Church bugle calls.

St Mary's towers

Veit Stoss Altarpiece
St Mary's Basilica

At the square’s centre is the long medieval Sukiennice Cloth Hall, Krak­ów’s hist­or­ical hub of trade and commerce in Eastern Europe. Built in the C14th, this huge hall may have been one of the first shopping centres in the world, packed with market stands. The hall was later rebuilt in a Ren­ais­sance style, housing the stalls of local merchants selling handic­rafts, cloth products, amber, lace and woodwork, like oriental imports.

Cloth Hall  
Vecteezy

On the eastern side, the coffee shops are crowded with tourists enjoying the view of the Cloth Hall’s br­oadside and 70 m leaning Town Hall Tower. Established in the C14th, the 70-meter tower is the only part of the for­mer Town Hall that still stands after fires and renovations. At the top is an observation deck, to get a beautiful view of Kraków. Visitors climb the sta­irs up to the 3rd floor through Gothic vaulted rooms which display 1960s photos of Kraków and offer a grand panoramic view over the Main  Squ­are. 
 
The square’s eastern side is home to street entertainers that do their show at the foot of the Basilica’s red towers. There is the small C10th Church of St Adalbert to the south, an old stone structure that is one of the few well preserved examples of early Christian, Romanesque build­ings in Poland. It is next to the middle Gothic arches of the Cloth Hall

Today many of the building façades that line the Main Square have Polish Baroque architecture, despite their med­ieval begin­nings. For example see the Krzysztofory Palace on the N.E corner, now home to the central divis­ion of the Historical Museum of Kraków.

Krzysztofory Palace, now Historical Museum of Kraków 
Krakow-Wiki

Chopin is a national hero and a key cultural figure in the country’s fight for independence and self-identity. Much of the composer’s work was inspired by traditional Polish dance music, and written against a backdrop of national resistance to occupation from neighbouring countries. Although Chopin left Poland when young and spent much of his time in Paris, he was consciously helping to establish a Pol­ish cultural identity. Kraków celebrates the great composer with reg­ular, even lavish concert performances, at the Chopin Concert Hall just off Kraków’s main square.         

Chopin Concert Hall 
Viator

Originally built in C15th, Old Synagogue is the oldest surviv­ing example of Jewish religious architecture in Poland, and one of Kr­aków's important historical monuments. Rebuilt in 1570 by Polish-Ital­ian architect Mateo Gucci with elements of Renaissance and milit­ary architecture added, Old Synagogue is a rare example of a fort­ress synagogue, meant to protect families during a siege. Directly al­ong the synagogue's side is a bit of Kazimierz's original defens­ive walls.

Old Synagogue, 
wiki 

Enclosed by elegant townhouses and Medieval palaces, the square is one of the city’s main meeting points for both locals and tourists, bustling with life. See the picturesque terraces and beautiful horse carr­iages that await their next customer in the Main Market Square.

Directly next to the Sukiennice stands Poland’s most eminent scribe: Adam Mickiewicz, and a huge, striking bronze statue of Polish C19th romantic poet on the square's eastern side. Ironically this much loved bard never visited the city un­til after his death when his remains were transferred to the Wawel Cath­edral crypt, but this didn’t stop the statue from bec­om­ing one of Krak­ów’s best loved monuments.

Citizens used to witness many public events in the square, including royal cer­emonies and public executions. Even now grim tour­ists might want to see the very grim set of metal neck chains dis­played on St Mary’s side door, used to punish philand­ering women. But the worst was during German occup­ation when the square was renamed Adolf Hitler Platz and Nazi rallies attended by Der Führer himself happened.

Kraków’s medieval market square is one of the few places in the city that can chronicle Kraków’s history concisely; from its medieval origins, through its horrid C20th conflicts, to a vibrant modern European city. No wonder its buildings and history made the square a perfect choice for UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1978. Its population is now 770,000.

St Florians Gate
Polish Gothic tower, focal point of Kraków's Old Town.





26 comments:

Rachel Phillips said...

I visited Krakow about 15 years ago. It is a splendid city. I was going on my own but at the last minute a friend from college came with me whose father was Polish and had fled Poland during WW2 as a child with his parents and settled in England. They were Catholic and had a farm in Poland which they left. They became frightened that Hitler was coming after the Catholics. They came to England with nothing and started again. When in Krakow my friend became very odd and upset and didn't want to visit anywhere because she knew her father had never been back and she felt guilty about visiting. I enjoyed the visit and made a film while we walked around but was disappointed that we did not see more. I always said I would go back alone but never have. Thank you for the photographs and descriptions.

Jo-Anne's Ramblings said...

A place I know nothing about although the name rings a bell, St Mary's Church looks stunning in fact all these photos are amazing

Andrew said...

The square looks to be a wonderful public space. While I know Europe has an historical advantage, I wonder why modern squares can't be built here, especially given our weather.

roentare said...

Bar­oque aesthetics are really my favorite. I haven't visited Poland before. It would be so lovely to go some time

Tripadvisor said...

Magnificent 4–5 hours journey to the Salt Mine at Wieliczka (750 years old, world firsts Unesco list), the only one mine like this around the world. Discover the expansive, underground salt mine on this guided excursion from Krakow. Join a small group and visit the ancient salt mine that has been in production since the Middle Ages. Enjoy a guided tour through the facility, admiring the chapels, chambers, and saline lakes as you walk, and learn about the mine's unique history.

Tripadvisor

Ирина Полещенко said...

Krakow is a very beautiful city. During World War II, the Nazis were going to destroy Krakow when the Soviet troops entered it. The Germans did not want to blow up Krakow itself, but the Roznow Dam on the Dunajec River in the nearby city of Nowy Sacz. If this had happened, Krakow would have been flooded and the advance of the Red Army would have been stopped.

The Soviet Union saved the city, but now the authorities in Warsaw call Russia their main enemy.

Margaret D said...

Beautiful architecture there Hels. Thanks for the good information and history, enjoyed reading your post.
I had a Polish girlfriend about 2 years before we both finished secondary school, we used to do everything together. She taught me to say The Lord's Prayer in Polish (now I've forgotten).

Hels said...

Rachel
We find out about smaller cities like Krakow in very unpredictable ways. You visited the first time because a college friend wanted to explore her family history. I had no connection to Poland at all, having close family contacts largely with Russia, Czechoslovakia and Hungary. But we are almost always grateful when we get to visit, however it happens.

Hels said...

Jo-Anne
In Feb 2021, the five-year conservation of the main altar in St Mary's was completed. The masterpiece carved by Veit Stoss in 1477-89 finally regained its great splendour and is well worth visiting.

Hels said...

Andrew
Europe may have the historical advantage, but Australia has the climate advantage and the vast spaces. Have a look at the photo of Cloth Hall and its plaza, perfect for lunch and afternoon tea under the big yellow umbrellas. It would be the heart of my social life, if I worked in Krakow :)

Hels said...

roentare
17th century Baroque aesthetics Baroque buildings were a bit radical, massive and dramatic. So although noone is shocked now, the contrasting surface textures, ornate roofing and rich interior decoration still impress! Thank goodness cities that suffered from warfare managed to maintain their original baroque buildings.

Hels said...

Thank you. I would be very interested in exploring the salt mint with all its historical facilities.
But if the tour goes over 4 hours, is it all on foot? Us elderlies may tire a little.

Hels said...

Irina
Many thanks. Can you refer me to a history of Krakow in WW2. I know a lot of Russian and German history before and in WW2, but very little about Poland.

Hels said...

Margaret
most of my year at school was born in Poland (1947-8) or born in Australia if their parents had sought refuge before the children were born. But because Poland had been the site of horror during and after the war ended, my friends were all forbidden from visiting their homeland.
My family was not Polish, and had no bad memories of Poland. When Dad retired, he bought into a travel agency and loved Krakow.

Mandy said...

We absolutely loved Warsaw and walked ourselves silly exploring the old ghetto. I'd love to visit Krakow one day. We want to bear witness at Auschwitz but your post reminds me that there is so much to see in this beautiful city. I'd love to see the medieval market square - old towns are always my favourite parts of European towns and cities - and I'd like to visit the Old Synagogue too

My name is Erika. said...

It's interesting so much of this remains, especially the synagogue, having been through WW2. I enjoyed this post. My great-grandfather was from Krakow, and someday I hope to visit. It's also interesting how many refuges from the war your school had-well maybe not the children but their parents.

Hels said...

Mandy
my spouse's parents survived the Holocaust, but his grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins were exterminated. Thus when we were old enough to make out own travel choices, he would never visit any camp. Even only an hour away from Krakow.
I agree with the preference for medieval, renaissance and early modern cities, by the way :)

Hels said...

Erika
I wish I'd seen your family's old photos; you have come from a great family :)

There was a very big Jewish community in Krakow, before WW2 (c75,000) and MANY big synagogues and small prayer centres. After the war ended, very few Jews were left (perhaps 1,000), so very few (3) of the destroyed synagogues were needed.

River said...

As Andrew says, squares and market places would be wonderful here.

Hels said...

River
medieval and renaissance towns in Europe commissioned a square in the centre of town for public gatherings, religious purposes, trade and social life.

I can imagine that when the British town planners started to lay out Australian cities they might have wanted less yobbish activities. After all, the High Streets were far more appropriate for glamorous trade.

Jenny Woolf said...

I've only paid one (short) vist to Poland so am not familiar with its architecture, but I have now developed a great wish to see that wonderful cloth hall! I think I would find it rather exciting to visit Krakow and look around at the old parts.

Hels said...

Jenny
I hadn't even paid one short visit to Poland, and only got to Krakow because it was near the Slovakian border. Before leaving home, you should read up as much as you can about the city and its history, especially if your time is limited and if you prefer the Old Town.

CherryPie said...

You have reminded me that this is on my list of 'To Visit' places.

Hels said...

CherryPie
Asolutely! Sometimes blogging does a very good service in introducing young people to new destinations, or reminding older people of the magical destinations they have sofar missed out on.

wishforbes said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Hels said...

many thanks, wishforbes. Do you live in or near Krakow?