19 March 2024

Capt Cook's Cottage Melbourne

James Cook Snr brought his large family from Scotland in 1736 where he had secured more reliable employ­ment on estate farms. As a bo­n­us, he could send young James to school at his employer’s  expense.
                                
Capt Cook's Cottage
transplanted brick by brick to Melbourne in 1934

Navigator-explorer Capt James Cook (1728-79) never lived in the cottage when his parents James and Grace built it in 1755 in Great Ayton village, Nor­th Yorkshire. [1755 was inscribed in the cottage’s stone-work]. The lad had started his sea-faring apprent­iceship in that year, even though he’d have stay­ed with his parents on trips home, enjoy­ing fishing in the River Leven. So this conn­ec­t­­ion to the Cook fam­ily home was enough to link the cottage and young James.

Leap forward to June 1933, when Great Ayton villagers crammed into the Buck Hotel for the auction for Cooks’ Cottage. The house’s legacy of being connected, however distantly, to one of Britain’s most fam­ous explorers meant that many people arrived to witness its fate. Or­iginally Cooks’ Cottage had been placed under strict conditions that any buyer could not remove the building from England, although this was later waived at the auc­tion. Later the Yorkshire cottage was sold to Melbourne scientist and philanthropist Sir Russell Grim­wade for £800.

Even in the 1930s, not everyone was happy about Cooks’ Cottage being removed from its Great Ayton site. Some locals complained that the house belonged to British history. Others were excited for the move, seeing it as a strengthened tie between the two British nations.

Then there was the job of dismantling the cottage. Each beam, raft­er, flagstone and brick was individually numbered as it was pain­st­akingly removed and placed into 253 wooden crates. Attent­ion to det­ail was important: only the modern parts of the house were left be­hind eg a fireplace ingle­nook that had been built after the Cooks left. The crates were taken by a fleet of lor­ries to a train which delivered them to the port of Hull. There the Commonwealth and Dom­inion Liner Port Wellington was waiting.

The ship left port in Feb, carrying 16,851 ks from the Cook Cottage to Australia. A site in the Fitz­roy Gardens was selected to rebuild the cot­t­age, where it went up brick-by-brick and opened to the pub­lic to mark Melbourne’s 100th centenary 1934. Construction work was completed in 6 months then the cottage was handed over to the Lord Mayor by Grimwade in Oct 1934 in time for the centenary cer­emony. Combining modern interpret­at­ions of Capt Cook's advent­ures, original furniture, a lovely English cot­t­age garden, vol­unt­eers in C18th costumes and a new museum in the stable. The Cottage was perfect when I visited (1958).

Original 18th century furniture

Actually Capt Cook lived on his ship HM Endeav­our and never act­ual­ly lived anywhere on land. The closest he act­ual­ly came to the future-city was from the deck of the Endeavour, a few ks from Point Hicks in Gippsland (which Cook nam­ed). Thus the cottage became a his­t­orical fluke, in a place with no connection to Mel­b­ourne, yet for decades successfully miscast as a nationalistic colonial icon.

The loss of Cooks’ Cottage to Great Ayton was quickly remedied with a gift from the Australian government. An obelisk now stands on the original site of Capt Cook’s Cottage, made out of Point Hicks gran­ite. NB this was the first land Cook aw on his 1770 Australian trip!

So why was the cottage erected in the Fitzroy Gardens if Cook was ne­ver in Melbourne? Partially because the area was surrounded by large shady Eu­r­opean trees, hist­orian Linda Young noted that jour­n­al­ist Hermon Gill created a Cook–Melbourne connection. It was argued that the first Australian coastline, observed by Cook’s 1770 exped­ition, was here. Since Melbourne was about to mark 100 years of settle­ment in 1934, Gill suggested that Melbourne was the proud guardian of the cottage of the man who had made the cen­tenary poss­ible! It’s now a museum to colonial history.

As the cottage structure had been altered considerably by a succ­es­sion of British owners following the Cook family's occupation, its Aust­ral­ian assemblers had to restore the cottage as accurat­ely as records would permit to its mid C18th appearance.

But before it had even been moved, there were discussions in Melbourne about where to reb­uild Cook’s cottage. Some citizens did­n’t want an unpretent­ious little building without any architect­ural value stuck beside the stately national buildings in Swanston St. But by the time Cooks’ Cot­t­age appeared in Fitzroy Gardens in Oct 1934, the public seemed to have warmed to the build­ing: a large crowd watched the centennial ceremony. Mrs Dixon of Great Ayton presented the original key of the cottage to Grimwade.

Statue of Capt Cook in 
the herb garden behind the cottage

Guides in 18th century clothes

Today, Cooks’ Cottage remains open, looking very much like it did back in Great Ayton in the 1700s. The exterior shows a reddish brown brick cottage, remin­iscent of many in the English countryside, com­p­lete with a customised, traditional English garden. The herb and vege­t­able garden behind the house has been planted as it would have  been at the time. In C18th, families relied on home-grown produce for their food supply. Poultry shared the space with vegetables, mixed fruits and flowers. Most families had a good knowledge of herbs uses for cooking and med­icine, using them to cure illnesses and injuries. Cook prevented scurvy in his crews by including scurvy grass/New Zealand spinach and sauerkraut.

Critique
Recently the Capt Cook story is coming under critic­ism. The cottage was one of a few colonial monuments vand­alised on Aus­tralia Day, as public opinion of the once leg­endary Capt Cook changed; more details of his interact­ions with First Nations peo­ple have em­erged. Some First Nations people described the cott­age as an opp­ressive sp­ace with a lack of inf­ormation about the illegal treatment of Indig­enous Australians by white settlers. Opponents pulled down statues of Capt Cook because the statues presented an image of heroism within the colonial narrative, without recognising the colonial violence that these men promoted and committed.

The English garden that accompanies Capt Cook’s House was designed before the cottage’s reconstruction here, and the sweet peas, holly­hocks, mignon­ett­es and other English flowers were NOT grown in York­shire. Rather they came from nur­series in Melb­our­ne. Only the ivy that climbs on the exterior walls was brought from Great Ayton along with the dismantled house, still living in the warm soil.

Fortunately the cottage has undergone two restorations. The first was in the late 1950s and the second in 1978, when a thorough effort was made to investigate and restore the building, furnish it with contempor­ary C18th materials, and surround it with an C18th garden.

Photo credits: ralwaightravel




32 comments:

Fun60 said...

I saw the cottage when I visited Melbourne in 2012. I wondered what it was doing there but never did the research so this post clears up the mystery I had completely forgotten until now.

Hilary Melton-Butcher said...

Hi Hels - fascinating alignment of thoughts ... we had a talk on Captain Cook yesterday for our history group. You've updated a few snippets to the story ... one thing that you don't mention ... is apparently that the 'codicil' to Cook's will stated that the cottage had to remain in 'England' ... was changed to 'Empire' ... so it could be sold and moved to Melbourne. Cheers - interesting post ... Hilary

Hels said...

Fun60

I also visited the 1755 cottage on a primary school excursion, presumably because British and Australian histories were so important to us in the 1950s. But no-one even knew to ask "what the cottage was doing there?" The reasons I added in the post above were presumably rationales recorded centuries later i.e after 1933-4.

It is still a great story now.

roentare said...

I can understand the anger directed at Captain Cook. But the carnage first nation people suffered is nothing unique an experience to them but happening everywhere in the human history. Wars create winners and losers.

Hels said...

Hilary

I wonder if that could be correct. Cook died in 1779 and any codicil to his Cook's will, eg in which country the cottage had to remain, would not have had any standing once the cottage was sold to other families many decades after the last Cook died.

The controversary continued even at the cottage's auction in the UK in 1933. Half the Yorkshire population was annoyed about Cooks’ Cottage being removed from its Great Ayton site. You must come to Melbourne - I will take you to the cottage as a special visitor :)

Hels said...

roentare

very true that. But it wasn't a war in the usual sense of the word; it was more the normal course of colonisation in someone else's country. Brutal but it was the natural right of old world countries in "apparently empty, New World countries".

Joseph said...

The Digital Classroom said that Cook only landed in two places in Australia, briefly at that: Botany Bay and Possession Island in Torres Strait. He was also forced to stop over at Endeavour River in Nth Qld, after the Endeavour ran aground.



jabblog said...

It seems an extraordinary undertaking to remove a cottage from one country to another and expensive, too. It must look quite bizarre, though interesting.

Hels said...

Joseph

It seems that Capt Cook was very wise not roaming around somebody else's land without permission. But a total of just a few days on land didn't really give him much claim to having discovered Australia.

I am very glad that Australia was colonised by the British, of all European or Asian powers, but the involuntary takeover of First Nations peoples leaves an anger still today that still needs to be addressed.

Hilary Melton-Butcher said...

Hi Hels - maybe my dating (as such) isn't correct - the waiver was made so the cottage could be moved to Australia. The other thing is - his widow lived another 56 years .. while his six children had all predeceased them both. Thanks for the offer of the visit - I'd love to ... but can't see it happening - sadly. Cheers Hilary

Hels said...

jabblog

It was so important that Melbourne scientist and philanthropist Sir Russell Grim­wade get Captain Cook's cottage to Australia, I think he would have spent even more than £800 to buy the house and then however much extra it took to ship it out and re-establish it here. Strengthening the tie between the motherland (UK) and the ex-colony (Aus) was his top priority.

It worked on me in the 1950s :)

Hels said...

Hilary

I cannot imagine the endless pain in Elizabeth Cook having had a good husband and 6 children, then finding herself totally alone in the world. Not even a single grandchild :( She received an annual pension of £200 from the Admiralty, but she must have struggled alone.

Parnassus said...

Hello Hels, Both the Cook house and landscaping are charming and show what can be done with houses on a smaller scale, which is of so much interest right now. (I am referring to the way it looks now, and not just the moving of a building.)

Speaking of taking apart houses, there was a pioneer stone house in Ohio that was in the way, but when preservationists tried to save it, all they got was a promise to carefully dismantle and number the stones, so the house could be re-erected elsewhere. You can probably guess the result--there was no immediate taker, and over the years some of the stones started to disappear. I am not sure what eventually happened, but I am pretty sure that Ohio is now minus one early stone dwelling.
--Jim

Jo-Anne's Ramblings said...

I totally enjoyed this post, this is they type of old house I would enjoying visiting, the man did some good did some not so good and maybe even some down right bad shit but that happens when one is human, no one is perfect

CherryPie said...

It is fascinating that the building was transported such a long way to a foreign land.

The destruction historical items and buildings leads us to forget the past and make the same mistakes again. A never ending cycle of growth and destruction.

Hels said...

Cherry

You are correct... whenever the destruction continues. If a site has historic, cultural or architectural importance, it is immoral to pull it down. And if the site has heritage protection, then pulling it down is illegal as well.

Perhaps moving the cottage 16,500 ks from Yorkshire to Victoria turned out to be a good move. I was heartbroken when the 1880s Federal Coffee Palace/temperance hotel in the centre of Melbourne was demolished in the 1970s.

Hels said...

Parnassus

pulling apart a pioneer stone house and numbering/wrapping each stone one at a time is very time consuming, very expensive and usually not supported by the entire community. I am not surprised that your Ohio example did not succeed in being dismantled, moved and protected properly.

Hels said...

Jo-Anne

Captain Cook was a talented, educated man, but a man of his times, yes. Clearly he didn't get consent from the resident populations to put Europeans on Australian land, and he shot native men on their own land.

But some things he did brilliantly. Cook travelled right around New Zealand, for example, completely surveying that previously little known nation. All his scientific work in the South Pacific made him and the Navy deservedly famous.

Margaret D said...

Interesting reminder of the history of Australia Hels. Visited the cottage and area in 1961 and from memory enjoyed it. We have also stayed at 1770 on the east coast for a few nights exploring that area.
He was indeed a clever man and we can't change history.

diane b said...

I have visited the house and museum and thought it strange ti be in Melbourne so thanks for the explanation. Personally, I feel it should have been left in Yorkshire. IT represents more of English history than Australian, especially as Young James hardly ever lived there.
I can understand First Nation people being upset with the British taking their land but vandalising statues and the house hardly helps their cause.

Hels said...

Margaret

Not only can we not _change_ history, it would be equally inappropriate to _quietly delete_ historical truths. The role of a morale nation is to examine our history in detail, find the deliberate and the accidental mistakes, and ensure that they are avoided for ever into the future. Captain Cook was a very clever man, but when I talk about learning from history, I am addressing myself to today's politicians, authors, school teachers etc etc.

Hels said...

diane

when protesters destroy public buildings, art, gardens or any other community treasure, they are imposing their values on the community without consultation, court permission or police protection for the victims. If they want a sculpture of Captain Cook taken down from a public space, they need to negotiate with the National Gallery of Victoria (for example) to take the statue into the special 18th century section of the precious collection.

rv exterior wall panels said...

Is amazing this structure.

hels said...

rv
True! And particularly amazing since this 1755 building was later pulled apart, shipped across the world, reconstructed and later restored twice.

mem said...

I love this little cottage for a number of reasons. The first is that many of the people who came to Australia after European settlement would have come from humble homes like this one . Its is an indicator of where we come from and who we are and maybe the values which have made us a more equal place ( although this is debatable) .
The second reason is the reminder that we don't have to live in huge spaces. This little cottage inspired my mum who bought a tiny bluestone rubble cottage in Geelong about 40 years ago and slowly and very carefully restored it . It has been her very loved home for all these years . It was built in 1850 by Geelong's first clerk of works . Mum kept in mind the simplicity of the Cook cottage as she worked on her house.
I absolutely understand The indigenous attitude to cook and the sadness of what followed At the same time this man was and is the worlds greatest sailor His achievements are a miracle of bravery and endurance and it is for that reason that he should be lorded . His treatment of the " Natives" was probably awful in keeping with blind racism of his time and should'nt be forgot but my goodness his achievement in navigation and exploration were amazing .

River said...

It looks very pretty from the outside, but the inside is quite tiny as most homes were back then I'd guess. Not much room to swing a broom.

Hels said...

mem

Captain Cook's parents did not earn an enormous amount of money, so I imagine that this was the loveliest cottage that they could have afforded. Dad was a farm worker who had to house, feed, educate and protect eight children. They were very wise in growing enough food, and catching enough fish to eat decently.

I think your mum was very wise in copying the Cooks' example in having a modest, restored and comfortable home, perfect for her own needs and not for the royal family.

Hels said...

River

you are quite right,... the cottage in Melbourne is attractive from outside, but it a bit small inside for our tastes. However this was true in most countries, I imagine. My dad was one of 7 siblings in his inner Melbourne home in the 1920s and 30s, and when his mother was put into a TB asylum, the children had to be fostered out to the aunts and uncles. They shared beds with their first cousins.

We need to find a decent medium level of space for ordinary families... not a squishy prison cell and not Buckingham Palace.

Handmade in Israel said...

I don't really approve of buildings being moved like that. The cottage should have stayed exactly where it belonged. You have given my hometown a mention though! I come from the port of Hull. I am originally a Yorkshire lass.

Hels said...

Handmade

the cultural and historical importance of a building comes from a number of factors, including its exact location and its surrounding environment. So moving the cottage _did_ cut it off from a lot of its importance. However destroying the cottage totally, or converting it into a MacDonald's, would have been much worse.

Re your Hull origins, I am very good at identifying various British accents but I didn't detect it in your written comments :)

Hels said...

Handmade

the only truly famous, important person I know from Hull was William Wilberforce. He truly changed the world.

Luiz Gomes said...

Boa tarde de Sexta-feira e bom final de semana minha querida amiga. Tenho mais fotos da influência da arquitetura italiana no Rio de Janeiro Janeiro.