21 March 2020

Hagia Sophia - beautiful church, mosque and museum

Byzantine Church
The Byzantine Empire was vast, powerful civilisation traced back to 330 AD when the Roman emperor Constantine I (272–337) dedicated a New Rome. Constantine I had been a pagan before he con­verted to Christian­ity and after he died, his son Constantine II saw Byzantine needed its own temple. Thus Hagia Sophia was consec­rated by Constantine II in 360.

The wooden-roofed basilica was damaged in 404 by a fire that er­up­ted dur­ing a riot. In Eastern Europe, where the Orthodox church flour­ished, the Greek Cross design(+) dominated. In contrast to the long nave crossed at one end by a tran­sept, Eastern churches had 4 wings of equal size, out of a central, square cross­ing.

The restored buil­d­ing was re-dedic­ated in 415 by a great orthodox bel­iever Emperor Theo­d­osius II. His architrave of 12 sheep rep­res­ented the 12 apostles of Christ, in front of the monumental entrance.

By 532, Emperor Justinian I had ruled the empire for 5 years. But people resented Justin­ian's high taxes and wanted him out of off­ice. When a riot spread across the city, the rioters chanted Nika-victory and besieged the Emperor in his palace. After moving loyal troops into the city Justinian brutally put down the rebellion.

A month after the 532AD Nika Insurrection, Justinian began re­building Hagia Sophia. In 537, he entered the completed build­ing saying Solomon, I Have Surpassed you!, a reference to Solomon’s Great Temple in Jerusalem. Rising along the shore of the Bosph­orus Sea, the cathedral was the most important Byzant­ine structure.

To build Hagia Sophia, Just­inian turned to Anth­emius of Tralles & Isidore the Elder. In time the men did get the magnificent domed roof to stand and it looked to be “susp­ended from heaven by that golden chain”. [It col­l­­apsed 2 decades later and an architect had to rebuild a roof].

The sunlight em­­anating from Hagia Sophia’s 40 windows surround­ing its lofty cup­ola, 
suffusing the interior and irradiating its gold mosaics. Magical!

Alas Hagia Sophia, finished in 537 AD, couldn’t survive the earth quakes of 557 and both arches and the main dome collapsed. It would not be the last earthquake.

When Hagia Sophia re-emerged, the longitudinal bas­il­ica had a 32-metre main dome supported on pendentives & semi-domes! The dimensions were imp­ressive for any structure not built of steel: 82 meters long and 73 meters wide.  There were 3 aisles separ­at­ed by columns with gal­l­eries above, and great marb­le piers rising up to support the dome.

32-metre main dome

The original decorations were originally very sim­ple. There were a number of mosaics that have been added over the centuries - images of the imperial family, of Christ and of diff­erent emperors. In the 8th & C9th, there was an Era of Icon­oclasm (726–87 and 815–43 when imperial legislation barred figural imag­es) that resulted in some mosaics being destroyed. Instead the cross was pro­m­ot­ed as the most acceptable decorative form for Byzantine churches.

When the decoration of the interior of Hagia Soph­ia resumed, each emperor added his own image.
                                         
Note the mosaic on the apse of the church showing a huge Virgin Mary with Jesus (867 AD).

Now to the C11th when the Byzantines suffered losses in both its West and East lands. At first the Byzantines coop­er­ated with Crusaders against Turks & Arabs. But after the 2nd & 3rd Crusades, Crusaders couldn’t recapture Jerusalem.

In 1204 the 4th Crusaders, led by Venetian Doge Enrico Dandolo, invaded Constantinople with his giant navy. The Doge plund­ered the city for 3 days. Relics of the True Cross, gold art, plates, chal­ices and furn­ishings were sent to churches in Venice, Germany and It­aly. Venice’s four bronze Horses of Saint Mark came from Hagia Sophia.

Ottoman mosque
The next chapter in Hagia Sophia’s history began in 1453 when the Byzantine Empire ended and Constantinople fell to the armies of Mehmed II, the young sultan (23) of the Ottoman Empire (1444-46 and 1451-81). Hagia Sophia was looking tragic, yet the Christian cathedral made a strong impression on the new Ottoman rulers. The last Christian emperor, Constantine XI, bid farewell to his peop­le, prayed in Hagia Sophia, rode into battle and died.

Sultan Meh­med entered the city, giving his soldiers 3 days to loot the churches and houses. In Hagia Sophia, he dest­royed the Christ­ian altar and converted the church into a mos­que by adding a minbar, mihrab, mad­rasa, chand­elier and wooden minaret. The Big Cross on the dome and the bell tower were of course remov­ed by The Ottoman Conqueror.

Hagia Sophia underwent many changes in the reigns of each Ottoman Sultan. Mehmed II’s first wooden minaret was rebuilt by Selim II (1566-1574). Sultan Bayezid II (1447–1512) erected a narrow white minaret with brick stone on the southeast side of the mosque min­ar­et. The other two identical minarets on the western side (60 ms) were built by Selim II and Murad III, both of whom commis­s­ioned Mimar Sinan the Grand Architect (1490-1588).

Four slender minarets, 60 ms tall

Suleyman the Magnificent (1520–66) put two candlestick beside the mihrab, taken in his Hungarian campaign. A marble muez­zin plat­form and al­abaster urns were added, in the reign of Mur­ad III (1566–95). Later Mahmud I (1696–1754) added a school for children-madrasa and a mosque lib­rary adorned with Iznik tiles and bronze grilles.

Mosaics were mostly covered with plaster. In 1847, a restoration was started by Swiss archit­ects Giuseppe & Gaspare Fossati (1809-1883), the men who had earlier been official arch­itects at the St Petersburg court. The broth­ers uncov­ered the hidden mosaics, show­ing all the gold to the Sultan. But the Sultan didn’t dare dis­p­lay Orthodox images.

Around the dome, a callig­rapher created 8 wooden green round­els 
bear­ing the names of God, Mohammed & grandsons; and four caliphs.

Present-day museum 
Throughout Byzantine and Ottoman history, the building served as the Imperial Church or Mosque where Emperors were crowned, vict­or­ies celebrated and Sultans prayed. The Turkish Republic was proc­laimed by Mustafa Kemal At­at­ürk in 1923. As a step en route to a secular country, the Turkish govern­ment “dereligionised” Hagia Sophia and turned it into a museum in 1934. Research, repair and restoration work still cont­in­ues, as does tourism. Since 1985 Hagia Sophia became part of a UNESCO World Heritage site. For magnificent photos see here.





20 comments:

Anonymous said...

That is quite a history and I take nothing of the original is left, just what has been built and added over the centuries. It is an important building and well worth the cost of restoration.

LMK said...

President Erdogan is saying they want to change the building back to a mosque. UNESCO is saying that should not happen.

Fun60 said...

It is a truly magnificent building, from both the inside and outside. It is one of the highlights on the tourist trail in Istanbul.

Hels said...

Andrew

there have been many re-buildings, renovations and re-decorations over the centuries, due to acts of God (earthquakes, floods and fires) or due to rampaging armies, new rulers and new religions. Every Turkish lira spent on this national and international treasure is worthwhile.

Hels said...

LMK

The vast majority of Turkey is Islamic and undoubtedly they want Hagia Sophia back as a mosque. But UNESCO sources have argued that changing Istanbul-based Hagia Sophia’s World Heritage Site status would require approval by the Paris-based world body. This may not be forthcoming because:
1] Millions of visitors visit Istanbul each year and they would not be able to inspect and appreciate Hagia Sophia's beauty if it was purely a working mosque. The secular status of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk was very important to Turkey. And
2] Other countries (eg Greece) in the region would find the change a political and military threat to the international community and international law.

Hels said...

Fun60

That is so true. Years ago we drove a car from Haifa in Israel to London, spending a week in and around Istanbul. It was a highlight of our very long trip.

Parnassus said...

Hello Hels, It looks like the Hagia Sophia has been turned into something of a political-religious football. The safety and integrity of the building seems as usual to be a minor consideration. From the Wikipedia article, the care of this building is going to be an ongoing concern of major proportions (cracked roof, rising groundwater, etc.) and its mismanagement could initiate vast losses and problems.
--Jim

Hels said...

Parnassus

Hagia Sophia might have always been a political-religious football, nod. There were always riots by locals, invasions by enemies, damage by Crusaders, total change from Christianity to Islam. Hagia Sophia seemed to reflect every political, military and religious crisis over its long history - including now.

mem said...

definitely on my Bucket List . ope it survives Erdogan , climate change and earth quakes , a big one is overdue in this very shaky region .

mem said...

I also seem to remember that the Mother of the original builder went to Jerusalem to the site of Golgotha and may indeed have gotten hold of bits of the true cross as she got there pretty early after the crucifixion , relatively speaking .

Hels said...

mem

Do you remember the Izmit Earthquake at the beginning of this century? Nearly 20,000 civilians were killed and twice as many seriously injured. I cannot imagine living in such a physically unstable part of the world.

Hels said...

mem

Spot on, sister :) Constantine the Great's mother Empress Helena reported that she did indeed find wood from The True Cross when she was a pilgrim in the early 4th century. She said she brought great treasures back from the Holy Land.

bazza said...

I don't have a comment to add other than "what a fabulous building and history!"
CLICK HERE for Bazza’s righteously rebarbative Blog ‘To Discover Ice’

Hels said...

bazza

Istanbul is a ginormous city with a long and changing history. The old structure of Hagia Sophia was a great Orthodox design with traditional elements. The Byzantine mosaics are gorgeous, the marble is rich and the clever calligraphy is not just decorative.

Three million visitors each year agree with you!

mem said...

I wonder if that this The T"true Cross " that is on display now wherever it is . DO you know ?

Hels said...

mem

there were many pieces of wood from the True Cross (on which Christ was crucified) dug up by various clerics over the centuries. But Empress Helena was a very special woman since she was the one who converted her son Constantine the Great, and Europe, to Christianity. And because the relics Helena found were in the very temple that had been built over the site of Jesus' death.

Several relics discovered by Helena are now in monasteries in Cyprus. But when Helena returned to Rome, her True Cross and other relics came with her; she kept them in safe condition in her palace's private chapel. Catholic Online is a good reference.

samir sardana said...



Speaking of Churches - there is the Hagia

https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-53366307

Was Jesus upset ? Is Christianity as its exists today the faith of Jesus the radical and out of the box thinker tilting against the Romans and the Pharisees ?

Jesus BROKE the oral Law w.r.t Circumcision,Wine and Pork and predicted the destruction of the idols and the Temple of Solomon (proxy for modern day Churches)

Jeuss SAID that he came to EXECUTE THE ORAL LAW ( against idolatory) and it was PAUL and the Romans, who made the Church on the death of Jesus

Jesus also said that NO ONE BEFORE HIM EVER HEARD GOD !

No man hath heard God at any time. (John 1:17-18 and John 5:37 + 61)

Jesus was an ANARCHIST, revolutionary and a radical – who would be called a TERRORIST today – Che with the Oral law = JESUS ! His BIG PICTURE ORAL LAW = PLATONIC UNIVERSALS – WHICH HE LEARNT IN THE MISSING YEARS FROM AGE 12 -32

JESUS also said that Moses was a false prophet !

For the law was given by Moses but grace and TRUTH came by Jesus Christ, (John 1:17-18 and John 5:37 + 61)

Moses gave you not that bread from heaven, but my Father giveth you the true bread from heaven. (John 6:32)

SO DID ERDOGAN DO ANY WRONG ? NEIN !

Turkey has struck Gold in the Black sea !

https://www.dw.com/en/turkey-discovers-large-natural-gas-reserve-off-black-sea/a-54649882

For A Human and a Muslim – it is IMPERATIVE

Principles and Ideology !

For A Human and a REAL Muslim – it is IMPERATIVE to PROTEST the Kashmir and Gaza Genocide and SUPPORT the FREEDOM STRUGGLE in KASHMIR AND GAZA ! dindooohindoo ! JESUS WOULD DO THE SAME !

Kashmir HAS to be an independent nation !

Turkey and Erdogan is the only nation/leader,which was resolute,unflinching and unconditional in its support.

And then the reward comes for Turkey and Erdogan .

https://www.dw.com/en/turkey-discovers-large-natural-gas-reserve-off-black-sea/a-54649882

UP GOES THE LIRA !

It is culmination of the prophecy of the desruction of India by the Turks,Mongols,Persians and Afghans !

Erdogan is the Muslim Role Model and no Muslim King/Kingdom has faced as many challenges as Erdogan and Turkey !

But If you follow the Principles and ideology of Islam and THE CORE STAND OF JESUS (Not Christ !) AGAINST INJUSTICE AND EQUITY – YOU WILL WIN ULTIMATELY !

LIRA goes UP and Borsa Istanbul and XU-10O shoots up !

Ideology,Ideology,Ideology,Ideology,Ideology !

Hels said...

The debate about Hagia Sofia goes on. You are correct that ideology is all-important in this conflict.

History Today said...

The Museum might have remained, but for the events of the last decade. In Nov 2011 the Ayasofya in Iznik was reopened as a mosque. Originally a church and the setting of one of the most important early councils in AD 787, the building became a mosque with the Ottoman Conquest. But it had fallen into disrepair. For decades it functioned as a museum, until a loophole in the law was found: it had never officially been a museum, allowing for its conversion back as a mosque. Reaction has been predictable: academics and secularists have decried the move, Islamists are delighted.

Robert Ousterhout

Hels said...

Robert

I bet Islamists are delighted and others are devastated. The conversion of Hagia Sophia back into a mosque sparked criticism around the world.

But recently the Erdogan government planned to do the same with the Chora Museum, a former Byzantine church. Last week, the Presidential Palace announced that the Chora Museum would soon be open for Muslim prayers. Control of the former church then museum will be given to Turkey's authority for Islamic religious affairs.