Coffee and culture in Budapest’s N.Y Cafe

In 1894, during Budapest's golden fin-de-siècle era, a grandiose fa­cility was built in the city centre. Al­­­ajos Hauszmann was comm­is­s­ioned to plan the design and along with Flóris Korb and Kálmán Gier­gl, he created a lavish, 4 st­or­ey­ed palace with a ground-floor café. The New York Café soon be­came the centre of Hung­ar­ian cultural his­t­ory, the favourite meeting place of art­ists, writers and poets. 

         

Front of NY Cafe, Pinterest
 

Tables surrounded by marbled columns, ceiling frescoes and crystal chandeliers.

The site’s history, closely entwined with lit­er­ature, lived through different eras and his­torical ch­anges, always providing com­fort for artists. There is no literature without a Café, said C20th writer Sándor Márai who frequented this historical building for in­s­piration.

There has always been live gypsy music in N.Y Café, but since 1995 the musicians have played every day until 5 PM. Mus­ic accomp­an­ies the del­ights of a good coffee, delic­ious food and atmosphere. The Lugosi Salon Gipsy Band’s huge repertoire means they can play many pieces by heart, clas­sical as well as modern music, with traditional Hun­garian gypsy instr­u­ments. The band interprets Hung­arian folk and gypsy music, plus music by Brahms, Kodály, Bartók or Liszt.

When it comes to an elegant event venue in Budapest, NY Coffee House is unbeatable. Its his­tory and heritage, this “most beautiful coffee house in the world” greatly raises its prestige and makes it more ap­pealing for guests. The building will dazzle all its guests as soon as they arrive in the street, the exclusive interior and the spec­ial­ly qualified staff ensures that formal events go through with no complications.

The opulent, roomy interior has en­joyed the spotlight since the early years of the building. The interior spaces are separated by spiralled marble columns. The ornamental brass statues on the Café's exterior are the 14 sinister fauns, created by Károly Senyei, as the symbols of sensuality and mockery. The figure of El Asmodai can also be found here, as the representation of the spirit of coffee and thinking, so as to provide inspiration for the artists dropping in. 

Full decoration continues around the stairs

The presence of history can be felt when entering the building. Several famous Hungarian writers and poets spent their time here. The iconic Hungarian work of “Pál utcai fiúk” was also written in the Café by Zsigmond Móricz.

The site was the gathering place of many famous Hungarian writers of distinction, such as Mihály Babits, Géza Gárdonyi, Frigyes Karinthy, Dezső Kosztolányi, Gyula Illyes and Sándor Weöres. No wonder, since the central placement of the building and the mentality that promoted arts provided the young artists with an atmosphere in which they could exert their creative potential to the fullest. Back then, the not so well-known and often poor writers could get access to the Writers’ Bowl at a small expense, thanks to the innovation of the Harsányi brothers.

The Nyugat Bar upstairs, with its dim light, is one of the cosiest places in the cafe. It offers a view of the Salon Restaurant and the lobby of the hotel while sipping coffee and enjoying the piano music

Nyugat Bar upstairs

Originally the building was the head office of the N.Y Life Insur­an­ce Company, but it soon became an important public venue. The café was estab­lish­ed on the ground floor, and the Company offices were on the first floor.

The cultural scene needed a central venue. The fact that the ceremonial opening in Oct 1894 was attended by the best literary and art stars proves how real this need was. Without advertising, the N.Y became a literary café.

While other cafés were established in existing buildings, it was not a secret that the aim was to create a venue that could represent the Insurance Company appropriately and could fascinate whoever enters the building. This is why the N.Y Café was extraordinarily ornate and polish­ed, and the café became the main attraction of the build­ing: it wanted to captivate visitors and demonstrate the Com­pany’s unlimited wealth. First-hand accounts about the opening event talked in superlatives about the grand interiors.

In 1918, Miksa Aczél and Co. took over the café. Not all the remodelling was univers­ally liked, especially critical were the artists and members of the press. In the Deepwater Room, the bill­iard room was turned into a restaurant, and the rooms behind the up­per balcony were con­v­erted into a bar. But a few years later, af­ter more remodelling, the cosy space was called Mahogany Bar, much loved

In 1927, the restaurant was ex­panded in major reconstr­uction. Immed­iately the locals and famous guests loved the Mahogany Bar: built sym­metrically to the marble hall over the door­way. Guests were thr­illed ab­out the hid­­den lights and the alabaster columns that emitted a delicate opals­cent light. Built in Renaiss­ance/Art Nouveau style, with marble columns, sparkling chandeliers, stuccoed angels, amazing frescoes and gilding, the cafe takes visitors back to another era. The exclusive bar soon bec­ame the centre of Budapest nightlife. A few years later, Budapest artists were given desks and furniture.

Lugosi Salon Gipsy Band

The café suffered very badly during WW1 and WW2, and the N.Y Café was briefly turned into a sports goods store in the 1950s. But it rose from its ashes in 1954, and was renamed Hungária Café. The real revival came in 2006 when a major renovation allowed the New York Café to regain its former gilded glamour. The café is open Mon–Sun 8 AM–midnight.

New York Cafe is just a short walk from the popular Jewish District where my in-laws once lived, and Andrassy Ave. 

Thank you to New York Cafe for the history and photos.