A few years ago, I had wanted to find the most beautiful bookshops in the world. Now examine a favourite in detail.
Front façade today
Brothers José and António Lello, prominent cultivated members of Porto's intellectual bourgeoisie, founded a business publishing and selling books in late 1800s. The brothers Lello, looking to expand their business, bought the old Chardron International Bookstore in 1894, and asked Francisco Xavier Esteves to design their new bookstore in a Neo-Gothic & Art Nouveau style. It was the city’s first architectural structure built with reinforced concrete.
When Livraria Lello Bookshop was inaugurated by the brothers in Jan 1906, this was an important social event for both Portuguese (and Brazilian) societies. It was attended by famous people from all over, including famous Portuguese writers. As one of Portugal's oldest bookstores, its beauty came from its intricate Neo-Gothic and Art Nouveau design in Rua das Carmelitas.
The shop has an fine neo-gothic façade, with 2 figures painted by José Bielman, representing the Science and the Art. From the outside Livraria Lello is a stunning example of Neo-Gothic and Art Nouveau architecture: intricate arch-ways, extravagant frescoes, tiling and elegant windows. Below the figures is the Lello & Brother signage, painted in vivid colours to stand out from the rest of the building.
This facade is only bettered by its stunning interior. Walk through the front doors to the extravagant interior which spreads across two floors which has been amazing locals and visitors ever since. See the grand Art-Nouveau central staircase with its elaborately carved archways and columns. Made of painted plaster instead of wood, this curving design style was popular in the early C20th.
The large stained glass windows, ceiling-high bookshelves adorning the walls and a grandiose stained-glass skylight with the Lello motto/Honour in Work make the bookshop a Porto temple to the arts. And beyond its beauty, this functioning shop serves the people of Porto by selling many books.
Rumour spread that J.K Rowling’s inspiration to write Harry Potter began in Porto, including this library. The author DID live in Porto as an English teacher in the 1990s, drinking coffee at the 2nd floor of Lello’s bookshop. Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone was published in 1997, so rumour suggested that the bookshop and its intricate staircase inspired the magic of the Hogwarts. Unfortunately this rumour was debunked by Rowling, who said she could never afford to buy a book but WAS inspired by Porto’s beauty.
Base of staircase, ground floor
Staircase opening on the top floor
Stainedglass ceiling
Rowling must have inspired by Lello bookshop when she created Flourish and Blotts, the imaginary bookshop where Harry Potter bought his books before going to Hogwarts. There were great similarities between Lello’s bookshop staircase, façade and bookshelves and the ones described in Hogwarts. Apparently the Hogwarts’ costume was inspired by the costumes of Portuguese students, composed of a black suit and black coat. The students hung around this area, near the Porto Uni campus.
The bookshop is also said to have inspired the creation of Hogwarts in the Harry Potter series, attracting travellers from all over the world. Despite the numbers in Harry Potter-manic visitors (4,000 visits a day), the bookshop was actually making a loss; tourists were visiting but not buying books. To raise money in early 2015, an entrance fee was added. In 2016 & 2017, the shop space was fully renovated, to help manage the Harry Potter tourists. But the bookshop became VERY crowded. So has its lustre diminished? Book a 3-hour Harry Potter and Lello Tour and buy a Livraria Lello Guide, featuring its history etc.
It’s easy to understand the impact Lello bookshop had. For Harry Potter fans visiting Porto, there is a fine 3-hour Harry Potter tour with access to Livraria Lello, Café Majestic 1.5 ks away and other places that inspired her novels.
Café Majestic, Porto
J.K Rowling's favourite
Livraria Lello is in Porto’s historic quarter, opposite Lisbon Plaza and close to the famous Clerigos Tower and Cordoaria Gardens. Take the historic #22 tram through the city till Clerigos and walk from there. To avoid queues, book tickets in advance and arrive early. The entry price (€4) is deducted from the cost of any books bought. Porto is more pleasant and less crowded in the non-summer seasons, while still retaining limitless charm.
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26 comments:
I have not seen the bookshop, but Porto is a lovely city altogether.
Train Man
There is always more to learn! I recognised Porto architecture straight away, but I had no idea about J.K Rowling and Harry Potter's connection to the city. Café Majestic was lovely.
Apart from J.K Rowling writing her first Harry Potter story in the bookshop and in Café Majestic, there is another connection. Livraria Lello Bookshop opened in Porto in 1906, filled with charming Art Nouveau design. When Café Majestic opened in 1921 with equally Art Nouveau decoration, Porto locals must have loved both.
My Goodness! I was in Porto years ago. I never learnt of this magnificent bookshop. The interior decoration is so stunning! Thank you for rekindling my interest to visit this city again.
I liked the look of this bookshop but I am a lover of books old and new and places like this are so wonderful
It is a shame I did not know of the bookshop before we visited Porto. It looks stunning, with an interesting history, both earlier and more current. We certainly did ride on Porto's #22 tram.
This bookshop looks amazing, I could spend many hours in there.
Joe
I had thought that Art Nouveau was too floral, too fussy and too delicate. But those Porto architects and decorative artists created a very special city centre.
roentare
Visiting Portugal was a delight to me too, although I can't claim to know much beyond Lisbon and Porto. Now that travel has normalised again (more or less), I warmly recommend a new trip for you :)
Jo-Anne
If you love cruising bookshops for old and new books, you will have a wonderful time in Livraria Lello Bookshop. To keep the crowds under control, the bookshop charges an entry fee to each visitor, but the fee money is taken straight off any book you buy.
Andrew
thank goodness for the blog world :) Before leaving Australia for Spain (which I knew well) and Portugal (which I did not), I read all the must-see sites and made a list of the most interesting places. I didn't agree with all the recommendations of course, but mostly they were spot on.
CherryPie
If you would love taking your time looking at the architecture, decoration and books, go early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the noisy crowds. And note the quiet four-table coffeeshop on the second floor of the Livraria Lello :)
I never knew of the Harry Potter connection. What a beautiful building. A must if I ever visit Porto.
Fun60
When Livraria Lello Bookshop was launched by the brothers in Jan 1906, celebrated by famous people and writers from all over. But I think if it wasn't for the Harry Potter connection, the number of visitors would have stayed at the same number that the bookshop had always attracted. Once J.K Rowling left Porto and published her first book, the visitor numbers sky rocketed. And the shop interior was renovated, as a result.
Such a beautiful bookshop - more a temple than a commercial enterprise. The stained glass ceiling is glorious.
jabblog
YES!! I looked for other "temple" references in the literature and you got it right. The façade has an almost church-look in a late C19th Neo-Gothic style and suggests a cathedral of learning. One of the first libraries in Portugal, it was actually called the cathedral of learning, at least locally. And, like a Gothic cathedral, the shop attracts over 4,000 passionate visitors a day.
Hello Hels, Well, I am not a fan of the intense whimsy of Rowling's writing, but I do admit that is a stunning bookshop. Perhaps one reason the Art Nouveau style succeeds so well there is that in such a large and lofty space, there is room for elaborate detail. In smaller rooms, those intricate carvings including twining plants, etc., might feel suffocating.
--Jim
Parnassus
I don't think Art Nouveau was a "choice" that the Lello brothers made.
Porto City has long been a collection of Art Nouveau architecture. While other cities may have torn down their exquisite buildings as modernity arrived, Portugal was poor and was not able to afford rebuilding. So now, almost unexpectedly, the original shops and houses were easily renovated. Even better, Porto’s most beautiful Art Nouveau buildings are not concentrated in one suburb, but are all over Porto.
Boa tarde minha querida amiga. Amo livrarias. A cada três meses ou menos visito uma.
Luiz
yes indeed. My three favourite pleasures in the world are fascinating architecture, quality books and espresso coffees :)
When I reported on The Most Beautiful Bookshops in the world in 2019, there was only one from your lovely nation: "Livraria da Vila, São Paulo. A façade of bookshelves sealed with glass swivels open to allow entry to Brazil's most boldly designed book haven. Inside the atrium-style bookstore has three levels of unsealed bookcases to browse through laid out just as creatively, with book-lined staircases and ceiling openings, among other unforgettable features". Do you agree?
The Majestic Café appeals to me. I love the bookshop ceiling and the shelving area reminds me of Heffers bookshop in Cambridge. I planned to visit Porto when I was in Portugal 5 years ago and when I went to the station in Lisbon to buy my ticket for the next morning I was told there was a rail strike coming and so sadly I never went.
Rachel
Majestic Cafe is beautiful. Trouble is I would buy my books and magazines, order the first coffee and sandwich for lunch and then more coffees for the rest of the afternoon. Great for me; not so good for Majestic :)
We were in Porto for five minutes once (not literally, obv.) and, happily, I did see this gorgeous place but, unhappily, it was closed. Thank you for this.
Pipistrello
touring in wonderful cities is always time limited, and certainly you cannot see everything. This is because it is closed (as you said), too expensive, too far to walk, not suitable for the children in the group, you hadn't heard of the site and didn't allow extra time when you were accidentally told about it etc etc. If I made a list of the treasures I had NOT seen on my tours, it would be a very long list indeed.
So thank you bloggers :)
Oh I want to visit this bookshop. This was a fascinating post, and you are right. What a gorgeous place.
Erika
I knew nothing much about modern Portugal in general or Porto in particular. Can you imagine the excitement discovering Livraria Lello Bookshop, Café Majestic and the rest of the Art Nouveau magic in the city :)
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