13 June 2023

Frida Kahlo's house museum, Mexico City

Australia is presenting a wonder­ful exhib­ition, Frida & Diego: Love & Revolution (Jun-Sep 2023) in South Aust­ralia’s Art Gallery from Jacques and Natasha Gelman's collection of Mexican modernism. But what about Kahl­o’s own Mexican home, la Casa Azul/Blue House?

Visitors queuing to enter Frida Kahlo Museum
 
The house was built in 1904 with a French-inspired design in the Coyoacán neighbourhood, a rural and arty part of the Fed­eral District of Mexico City. Guillermo Kahlo completed the fam­ily home there before Matilde gave birth to their daughter Frida (1907-54).

Frida contracted polio at 6 and was bedridden for 9 months. The di­s­­ease caused her right leg to losing weight, limp­ing forever. So she wore long skirts for life! Her beloved fat­her encour­aged her to do sports to help her recover: so­ccer, swimm­ing, wrest­l­ing!

She attended Mexico City’s famous National Preparat­ory School in 1922 where only 35 female students were enrolled. This con­fid­ent lass first met and admired the famous Mexican Diego Riv­era who was working on the school’s assembly hall mural.

That year, Kahlo joined students who shared leftwing political views, loving the leader Alejandro Gomez Ar­ias. She and Ar­ias were on a bus when it collided with a tram and a steel handrail imp­al­ed Frida's hip. Her spine and pelvis were fractured, leaving endless pain. She had to stay in the Red Cross Hospital Mexico, then went home in a full-body cast for months. Her parents loved art, bought her br­ushes and paints, and made her a special bed-based easel. So she painted her first self-portrait in bed.

Frida's bed
with a mirror above, set into the canopy

Kahlo re-found Rivera in 1928, asking him to ev­al­uate her work and he encouraged her, professionally and rom­antically. Frida was young (21), dressy, physically handicapped and living with her parents. Rivera was middle-aged (42), totally famous and messy. Despite parental ob­jec­t­ion, Frida and Diego married in 1929 then moved around, based on Diego's work in the US.

In 1932, Kahlo painted more surrealistic components. In Henry Ford Hospital (1932) she was lying on a hospital bed naked, surr­ounded by a foetus, flow­er and pelvis, connect­ed by veins and floating. She  was pregnant but suf­fered a heart-breaking miscarr­iage from ear­lier injuries.

In 1933, Nelson Rockefeller commissioned Rivera to paint a mural at Rockefeller Centre. Rivera included Vladimir Lenin, but Rockefel­ler had Lenin painted over and the couple quickly escaped to Mexico!

Frieda and Diego Rivera, married in 1929,
She painted this wedding portrait in 1931

The couple were keeping separate homes and studios for years, yet despite the many affairs, they always returned together. In 1937 they helped Leon (and wife) Trotsky, exiled rival of insane Soviet lead­er Joseph Stalin. The Riv­er­as welcomed the Trotskys into their Blue House where Frida and Leon had a brief affair. But when the Trot­skys relocated, Leon was tragically assassinated.

In 1938 Kahlo befriended Andre Breton, a Surreal­ist who helped her create a successful gallery exhibition in N.Y. In 1939 Kahlo was in­vited by Br­eton to Paris to exhib­it her work. There she was befriended artists Marc Chagall, Piet Mondrian, Marcel Duchamp and Pablo Picasso, and loved it.

The couple divorced in Nov 1939, then remarried in Dec 1940 when she showed her per­spective in Diego on My Mind (1940). Even then they had separate lives, both of them cheating. Kahlo painted some of her most famous paintings after her homecoming, in­clud­ing The Two Fridas (1939) and Self-Portrait with Thorn Necklace & Hummingbird (1940).

Be­fore Frida’s father Guill­ermo's death in 1941, the couple moved to the Blue House, and quickly adapted it. The Blue House was given a bigger garden and brighter colours, especially the blue painted walls seen today, enclosing the courtyard completely. Juan O’Gorman did the redesign work in 1946. To separate the new from the old, a stone wall divided the patio area in two, with a foun­tain, stepped pyr­amid, pre-Columbian artefacts, pool and their arch­aeological collect­ion. They built a sunny art studio and covered its white faç­ade in cob­alt blue paint.

Diagnosed with foot gan­­g­rene in 1950, Frida was bedridden for another 9 months, in hosp­ital for sur­g­eries. Still, she contin­ued to work in her par­ents’ home,  her biographical paintings revealing a new approach to exploring feminism. The Blue House welcomed intel­l­ectual and avant-garde act­ivity; the couple hos­ted a special array of stars from Mexico and abroad. The house together had some of her most famous works eg Portrait of My Father (1951). 

Some of Frida's old Mexican clothes
hanging in the Museum

She had a solo exhibition and despite the pain, Frida arrived by ambulance, welcomed the at­t­endees and opened the 1953 ceremony from bed. Months later, her right leg was partly amputated to stop the gangrene. Thus her last political outing was in 1954! 

They lived in the house for the rest of Kahlo's short life. At 47, Frida died in 1954 at her beloved Blue House from a pul­monary em­bolism. The Blue House physically displayed the col­our­ful life she left and rep­res­ented her admiration for the indigen­ous Mexic­ans. Cr­utches and med­icine displayed her years of suffering, plus toys, jewellery and cloth­ing. Was she a hoarder? Probably - after all, it took years to discover the 6,500 photos and c22,000 documents left in the Blue House, along with magazines, books, paintings, drawings etc.

Frida and Diego's kitchen
 
Frida and Diego had wanted to leave her house as a museum for all Mex­ic­ans to enjoy. So the widower paid out the mortgage, and paid off the health debts for them both. Rivera set up a foundation for to preserv­e the house and con­vert­ it to a Museum dedicated to her life and works. Its administrat­ion was assigned to a trust under the central Banco de México, and constit­uted by Rivera in 1957. He had the Museum formally dedicated to her life in 1958, including its gardens.

Kahlo gardens

Museo Frida Kahlo presents the house how it was in the 1950s. In addition to the couple’s works, the museum also collects their Mexican folk art and pre-Hispanic artefacts. There are ten rooms. On the ground floor is the kit­chen where her Mex­ican culture was really vis­ible. It was trad­it­ion­ally decorated with clay pots, in bright ind­ig­enous Mexican co­lours. The second room has Frida’s let­t­ers, notes and photos, while on the walls are Frida’s trade­mark pre-Hispanic neck­laces and folk dresses. The third room has Rivera’s art. The fourth room has cont­emporary paint­ings by Paul Klee, José María Vel­asco and others. The fifth room has monsters from Teotih­uacan cul­ture that Kahlo used in her art. Her top bedroom-studio was in the wing Rivera built, with a painted plaster corset worn to sup­port her damaged spine, and a mirror still facing down.

In the 1970s inter­est in her work and life was renewed due to fem­in­­ism; she was viewed as an icon of female creat­iv­­ity. In 1983, Hayd­en Herrera published the excellent Biography of Frida Kahlo. And from 1995, read The Diary of Frida Kah­lo:  and The Letters of Frida Kahlo

Today, the Blue House is one of the most visited museums in Mexico City.

Self portrait with thorn necklace and hummingbird, 


26 comments:

jabblog said...

A colourful life in every respect. To overcome pain and disability and lead such a productive life is amazing.

Deb said...

Until I saw Diego on My Mind and Self Portrait with Monkeys in Sydney, I thought Frida's paintings were too crippled and pain filled. Of course I remember I blamed Diego.

Hels said...

jabblog

thank goodness for her art talent! Imagine trying to live with chronic pain and with serious disability, and not being able to fill her days and nights. Art reflected her pain, but it saved her sanity.

I suspect the use of very impressive colours also made up for depression. But dying in her mid 40s was still tragic.

Hels said...

Deb

I too saw a Kahlo painting (in Paris) that suggested the depression and pain was not always constant i.e The Frame 1938. Andre Breton had prepared the catalogue for her first solo exhibition in New York and she was very happy. I hope her Paris experience was just as satisfactory, thanks to Breton.

V&A said...

The dress collection reveals how Kahlo used indigenous textiles, as well as art, to give her emotional strength and develop a sense of personal identity. Her striking appearance was a political statement – she crafted her identity to reflect her own mixed-race heritage and allegiance to Mexico. Her wardrobe includes examples of traditional Mexican dress - fringed shawls, embroidered square-cut tops, skirts and flounces, as well as corsets painted with religious and communist symbolism.

Hels said...

V&A
Thank you.
The House Museum is filled with colourful Mexican clothes, shawls, hats etc, but I couldn't remember why Diego Rivera took out all his late wife's things out of the cupboards and hung them up in open view.

Of course! The collection of her art, style and character tell us as much about Frida as any other part of the House.

Vincent Perez said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Traveller said...

Mexico City is one of my favourite cities - have been there many times. Cayocan on a Sunday is glorious.

Ian am more interested in Diego’s art than hers, though The Blue House is a great museum. The dresses displayed there were wonderful

DUTA said...

Nice wedding portrait of Frida and Diego!
Frida Kalo is, no doubt, an inspiration to women and artists. Despite her physical pain and
suffering, she nevertheless leads a creative life.
The Blue House sounds like a museum definitely worth visiting!

Andrew said...

What a physically challenging life that ended too soon. Yes, she produced so much art much loved by many.

mem said...

I have heard of Frida and Diego but never really delved . I didn't know that she had had Polio as well as that terrible accident nor that she died of Pulmonary embolus probably from all the bed rest after all her surgery for gangrene.
I feel that maybe her wild colors and amazing dress sense was to distract from her poor disabled body and focused her and our attention on her wonderful face and adornments . The skirts swirling as she moved would have disguised her limp and also the wheels of a wheelchair.
Her home was happiness in a building . An admirable attitude to her problems . Her assertiveness in giving Diego as good as he gave is great too . What a girl !!!! .

hels said...

Vincent

this is a blog about history, art, srchitectute, travel and literature.

hels said...

Traveller
Thank you. Perfect timing :)

I always thought Diego was the better artist but I didn't approve of his behaviour and wouldn't have gone to his museum. But that seems silly now since half the skilled & famous people in the world behaved badly.

hels said...

DUTA
well worth visiting, if you are in Mexico City. But I warn you that if you are a neat fanatic, you might find it so full of historical material that it takes the breath away.

Hels said...

Andrew

not too many people die at a young age and go on to become very famous. Frida Kahlo did.. her reputation is much greater now than when she was alive. But once I was thinking about it, so did Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin, Buddy Holly, Vincent van Gogh, Amy Winehouse, James Dean and many more. I wonder if my grandmother grieved about Rudolph Valentino dying so young.

Hels said...

mem

I added a photo of some of the dresses hanging in Museo Frida Kahlo, with beautiful materials and colours. Partially I am sure it was to distract her from constant pain, and partially it rep­res­ented her love for Mexic­an culture, clothes and jewellery. This was confirmed when Frida specifically told Diego she wanted to leave her house as a museum for Mex­ic­ans to enjoy.

roentare said...

This exhibition looks very interesting. I might visit Adelaide again on the way to Kangaroo Island for some photography fun too.

Hels said...

roentare

I love the idea of a life travelling around, painting or photographing the environment. In Australia and elsewhere.

Hilary Melton-Butcher said...

Hi Hels - they were an amazing couple and she certainly led a very creative life - with a very strong mind. The exhibition will be fascinating to visit - as well as if one could get over - to see the Blue House in Mexico. So much to learn from her - thanks for an excellent post - cheers Hilary

Hels said...

Hilary

Ongoing physical crises aside, Frida had a very warm family life, close to her parents and at least one of her sisters. Then she went to an excellent school that supported her education and her ambitions. She had wonderful support from her political party's members and even more support from artistic contemporaries. Another great experience was when as a couple they travelled around the USA for a few years, meeting influential people, seeing new places and improving their careers.

What a loss :(

Viagens pelo Rio de Janeiro e Brasil. said...

Boa tarde de quarta-feira. Obrigado pela visita e comentário. Uma mulher diferente do seu tempo e que faz parte da história de todas as mulheres do mundo.

viagenspelobrasilerio.blogspot.com

Luiz Gomes

hels said...

Luiz
I didn't learn about Kahlo at uni, but once the feminist movement took a lot of space in the literature and art world etc, her fame blossomed. What a shame she missed some of that pleasure in her own lifetime.

bazza said...

I always thought that Frida was treated awfully by her husband - and I think she was a better artist, even if a bit self-obsessed with so many self-portraits!

Hels said...

bazza

I am still uncertain. Even before Diego Rivera met Frida, he was divorced once, still married again, had a mistress, was constantly unfaithful and produced children with everyone. So although Frida was definitely passionate about Diego, she still said (later) that marrying him was the greatest mistake of her life. Even her loving affair with Leon Trotsky didn't resolve her pain.

Diego was a super artist but he treated everyone unforgivably :(

My name is Erika. said...

I would love to visit Frida's house someday. It looks like not only a piece of great architecture but also a piece of art history too. I recently read a book about FRida's time in America by Celia Stahr. It was an interesting time in her life for certain. Thanks for sharing this Hels. Hope you're having a great week. hugs-Erika

hels said...

Erika
Thank you.
I wish I had read Celia Stahr's book about the freeing up of Frida's creativity during her 3 years in the U.S. It might have made a big difference in the last years of her artistic life.