21 January 2023

Old City Jerusalem, history and landscape .....guest post

Welcome to Israel. This fascinating country has a rich history and landscape to explore, starting with this rapidly moving history of Jerus­alem.

Tower of David (Citadel)
located at the Jaffa Gate, within an ancient and restored fortress

King David made Jerusalem his kingdom's capital in 1003 BC. In 586 BC Nebuchad­nezzar King of Babylon took Jerusalem, exil­ed the pop­ul­ation and destroyed the Tem­ple. 50 years later, Bab­y­lon was conq­uered by the Persians and King Cyrus allowed the Jews to return to their auto­no­mous homeland. A Second Temple was built on the site of the First.

Last remnant of the original retaining wall which surrounded the Second Temple, 
built in 516 BC.

Alexander the Great conquered Jerusalem in 332 BC. Led by Judah Macca­b­ee, the Jews defeated the Seleucids and rededicated the Temple in 164 BC. Jewish independence was re-established under the Hasmon­ean dynasty, which lasted for 100+ years, until Pompey imposed Roman rule. King Herod was installed as Judah’s ruler by the Romans and ruled 37-4 BCE. The Crus­ad­ers conquered Jerusalem in 1099, massacred the Jew­s and Muslims, and es­tablished it as the Crusader Kingdom’s capital.

Church of Holy Sepulchre, 4th century,
The sites where Jesus was crucified and the empty tomb where he was buried

Crus­ad­er rule over Jerus­alem ended in 1187 when the city fell to Salad­in. The Ottoman Turks ruled Jerusalem from 1517, Suleiman the Mag­n­if­ic­ent reb­uilding the city walls (1537), a Sultan’s Pool and public foun­t­ains. The Turks ruled until 1917 when the British army under Gen Allenby conquer­ed Jerusalem. From 1922-48 British authorities ruled un­til 1948 when the British Mandate was terminated and Israel was proclaimed.

During Covid, local authorities teamed up with big foundat­ions to ren­ov­ate the major historic Roman shopping street, The Car­do. A new out­door archaeological exhib­it­ion was started, telling the story of the Ancient Jewish Quarter of Jerusalem. See c180 unique archaeo­logical items from this part of the Jewish Quar­t­er, ex­hib­its that tell the his­tory of the com­mun­ities that inhab­ited Jerusalem over centuries. The relics examine the lives of Jews, Chr­is­t­ians and others; how the Jewish quarter looked in diff­erent histor­ical eras, from Roman to Byzantine times to the Crusades.

Workshops leased by craftsmen and merchants, 
Roman-Byzantine times, c200 AD
The Cardo excavations

Normally besieged by pilgrims and tourists, the Tow­er of David would have been impossible to thoroughly excavate and investigate. This cit­ad­el was one of Jer­us­alem’s most visited sit­es, attracting half a million+ visitors pre-Covid. During Covid, excavation and restoration work begun in earnest in July 2020, using a $40 million budget allocated by the Tower of David Mus­eum and Israel’s Tourism Min­is­try.

Tower of David Museum

The archaeol­ogical digs began in the fortress’ court­yard where Tower of David’s visitors gained greater historical und­erstanding of the medieval past. As summarised above, the city changed hands multiple times since the First Crusade (1099) so the new ex­cavat­ions used modern technology to assess the historical relics of Judaism, Chris­t­ianity and Islam. This pro­duced a clearer picture of the lifestyle of the var­ious civilisations that once inhabited the area.

Church of Saint Peter
Byzantine shrine dedicated to Peter's repentance first built here in 457 AD

Now some practical advice. Israel was founded in 1948, with Jerusalem as capital. Relig­ions: 75% Jewish, 18% Muslim, with 7% Christian and Druze etc. The 2022 population was 9,038,309, with Hebrew and Ar­abic being the official national lang­uages while other languages, including English, are widely spoken.

Arab Souq Market

Visas are issued for c3 months, according to nation­ality. Some nat­ional­ities will require a visa to be issued upon arrival, so check with near­est Israel Embassy or Con­sul­ate. Trav­ell­ers are respons­ible for ensuring that their passport is valid for the durat­ion of their stay, and should be va­lid for at least 6 months after the planned travel period.

No vaccines are required for entering Israel, although certain im­munis­ations may be recommended. Israel has excel­lent medical facilit­ies, and tourists may go to all emergency dep­art­ments and first-aid cen­tres, mark­­­ed by the red Star of David. But medical treatments can be expensive so medical tra­vel insurance is recommend­ed. Plus comp­re­h­ensive travel insurance will cover pos­sible loss of possess­ions, illness and injury during the holiday.

The local currency is the New Israeli Shekel at c4.0 shekels to U.S $1 exchange. ATM machines are widely available for exchanging shek­els. US $s are accepted at all money changers, and at many tourist shops. Some shops do not acc­ept credit cards, so take some USD travellers cheques and cash. Exchange shekels back to USD at any bank.

The Jewish Sabbath begins at sunset Friday until sunset Saturday when many shops and restaurants, and all banks, are closed, although ATMs are available for cash with­draw­al. Due to the variety of religions in Is­r­ael, there are diff­er­ent shopping hours depending on the site: Muslim shops close on Fridays, Jewish shops close on Saturdays and Christ­ian shops close on Suns. Muslim and Christian holid­ays are also observed by their populat­ions. Tipping is welcomed by Israeli service providers.

Recommended clothing when visit­ing holy sites (churches, synagogues, Western Wall) in­clude modestly covered shoulders and legs. Avoid very brief clothing in Je­r­usalem, but in Tel Aviv clothing is more rel­ax­ed, particularly near the beach. Wear casual, comfort­able clothing while touring, and a solid pair of flat walking shoes. Summers can be very hot, so for sun prot­ection have a large sun­­hat, sunglasses and suntan cream, and rest during the mid-day heat. The Mediterranean climate has a pleasant spring and autumn. Winters in the north can be cool while winter rain is widespread, partic­ul­arly in Jerusalem.

Dome of the Rock, Islamic shrine, built 690 AD
from where the Prophet Muhammad ascended to Heaven

Guest post by Naftali Tours,
images by Wiki




                                     

20 comments:

roentare said...

What a magnificent history for this ancient city. The story written here is so detailed and thorough

DUTA said...

Very informative post on Jerusalem, with some great pictures, and...practical advice!

Deb said...

I have visited the Jewish sites before, but never the churches. So going with a organised tour would probably teach us more, do you agree ?

Andrew said...

That was an interesting read. I had no idea of the exchange rate between shekels and the US$. Translating, perhaps it would be just under 3 shekels to the AU$. Let me check. Disappointingly only 2.37 shekels to AU$. Good for Israelis travelling to Australia but not good for us if we visit Israel. No matter, we are used to that.

Hels said...

roentare

I am a fairly decent historian, but I was overwhelmed by the number of rulers who took over Jerusalem and left their mark forever. I would have understood how desirable a major port on the Mediterranean would have been, for example, but that was never the case. Jerusalem had the most critically important religious and historical sites in the world, but the area was rocky, not good for agriculture and hard to defend.

Take your best camera, if you decide to travel to the Old City.

Hels said...

DUTA

I lived in Israel for 2.5 years and have visited many times since, but for this post I was totally dependent on Naftali’s writing. I didn’t even know about the restored open-air excavations of the Byzantine Cardo.


Hels said...

Deb

People go on their own tours to 1] save the costs associated with a professional guide and 2] be able to pace themselves according to their particular interests. But if you have never heard of St Peter’s repentance, or if you don’t know why Jesus’ tomb is empty, arrange for an English speaking guide who can patiently explain everything. Guides can make all the difference in the world.

Hels said...

Andrew

I wondered why the practical advice was included in a history post, but I can see why tours can be more spoiled by being unprepared for the weather, or not having local currency, than by feeling disappointed in an ancient fortress that you expected to be much more modern. Note that food was not mentioned…. I would add humus, falafel, Shakshuka, baba ghanoush, shawarma and sabich, usually bought from small cafes.


Luiz Gomes said...

Bom sábado com muita paz e saúde. Fico feliz em dividir um pouco com vocês a beleza do meu Brasil. Minha querida amiga, Jerusalém é uma cidade que eu gostaria muito de conhecer um dia. Linda matéria, parabéns.

Joe said...

Helen you can find fantastic photos from the Old City in a blog called Bobo and Chichi.

https://www.boboandchichi.com/2017/05/jerusalem-old-city/

Hels said...

Luiz

Jerusalem is a city you would love to visit one day because it is historically and religiously important, and architecturally fascinating. Especially for a very keen photographer such as yourself. If "The Holy Land for Christian Travellers: An Illustrated Guide to Israel"
by John A Beck has been translated into Portuguese, I would warmly recommend it to you.

Hels said...

Joe

Many thanks. The blog post on the Old City by Bobo and Chichi is excellent, particularly the photos as you noted. Plus Jerusalem's Old City was divided into four quarters: Jewish, Christian, Armenian, and Muslim, not three religions.

The Western Wall this is one of the holiest sites in Jewish religion, as their blog noted, so I should add a photo.

Handmade in Israel said...

I look forward to seeing the work done at David's Tower one day.

Hels said...

Lisa

I thought that once a person has toured the Old City in detail, there would not be much more to learn. So thanks to Naftali's post, I have now started reading current reports.

The Times of Israel wrote: The old excavations show the timeline of Jerusalem from a wall from the period of King Hezekiah during the First Temple period (800 BCE), the foundations of King Herod’s palace and water system from 2,000 years ago, Crusader-era pools and the Ottoman city walls of Jerusalem onwards. When the Tower of David Museum opened, the Western Wall Tunnels and the City of David archaeological site weren’t open yet. The task of the museum has changed, as well as its role as a monumental site of the Old City. The renewal project will double the area of the museum with the permanent exhibition area doubling.

Luiz Gomes said...

Bom domingo de muita paz e saúde minha querida amiga. Grato pela atenção e carinho.

Hels said...

Luiz

With a large group of Australians, I spent my Gap Year overseas, studying with South Africans, New Zealanders, Brazilians, Argentinians and Mexicans. But that was followed back at home only by slow letters.

This year we will be having a reunion on Zoom :)

mem said...

Thankyou Naftali , One day I will get there . I am always fearful of the security and conflict issues but I guess perhaps wee get a skewed image in the media.

mem said...

PS I am wading through Simon Montefiore's history of Jerusalem . Its a wonderful read .I thoroughly recommend it

Hels said...

mem

I must say I used to feel the same way as you do about travelling to Israel, but now I would be much more scared about travelling to the USA, Peru, Brasil, Columbia, Afghanistan, Thailand etc etc. The news each night is horrible.

Hels said...

mem

Montefiore writes history well, yes. I thought by the time he covered Canaanites, Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians, Romans, Byzantines etc all the way until modern Israel, the reader would be exhausted. But I particularly valued his analysis of Jewish and Arab nationalism from WW1 on. Millions of Jews suffered from rising antisemitism in Eastern and Central Europe, while the Ottoman empire frustrated the Arabs. Then the Balfour Declaration, Zionist dreams, the Versailles conference and mass immigration. Great book.