15 February 2022

Sydney's magnificent General Post Office (1874), but now it's something else

Sydney’s General Post Office/GPO building replaced an earlier pos­tal building on the same site since 1830. This second building was designed by colonial archit­ect James Barn­et. The northern façade was the finest example of the Victorian Italian Renaissance Style in NSW that stretched along Martin Place! Note that Martin Place became Sydney’s civic heart, home to the Reserve Bank, other banks and business corp­orations.

Queen Victoria was placed above the main entrance,
Martin Place

The keystone block for the main arch in George St was cut from the Pyrmont peninsula quarry and delivered in 1868 on a wagon and 26 Clydesdale horses. When the foundation stone arrived, the Prince of Wales, who was in Sydney on a royal visit, laid the stone. Suitably Queen Victoria was placed above the main Martin Place entrance.

At the 1874 opening, the GPO was described by the Post Master Gener­al as the finest building in the southern hemisphere. It dominated the street­scape and skyline, and represented the wealth Australia was enjoying in the post-Gold Rush economic boom. It rem­ained its most well known landmark until the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Sydney Opera House emerged in the C20th.

In Aug 1879 Barnet submitted plans for the extension of the post office to Pitt St. Tenders were called and in 1880 laying of the foundations began. The Post Office Cafe, south of the GPO along George St, was resumed in 1883 to house the Railway Parcel and Ticket Office. The clock tower was not com­p­leted until Sept 1891 when it became Sydney's tallest structure (73 ms) and remained so for decades. The Post Master Gen­eral later opened the tower's small viewing plat­form above Martin Place and the spiral stairs up to 60 ms.

GPO Tower, 73 metres high

Among the allegorical carvings on the 1887 George St facade was the coat of arms, a turning point in the colony's stat­us. Carved before the 1888 Centennial cel­ebrations, it showed the badge of NSW on a shield with a crown as a crest, and emu and kangaroo supporters. By the time of its completion in 1891, the building was hail­ed as a turning point for the Colony of NSW. What was the build­ing's signific­ance as a force in the vital struggle for Australian Federation.

The GPO consisted of a basement, ground floor, mezzanine and three floors. A decision to add a fifth storey, beginning with a mansard roof at the Pitt St end of the building was made in 1897. This was completed in 1899 and an alternative entrance for mail carts was built from Chisolm Place under Martin Place to the basement.

The ground floor was dom­inated by an open arcade which ran around the street facades and which was covered with vault­ing. This arcade was supp­orted on pol­ished grey monolith columns on mass­ive bases and surmounted by carved capitals. The building already featured bas-reliefs of Commerce, the Arts Science and Literature, and a giant statue of Brit­annia on a lion.

Later, Government Architect James Barnet and Ital­ian sculptor Sig­nor Sani created a series of sculptures above the Pitt St arch­ways depicting current working people: fish­monger, sail­or, postman, barmaid, printer & architect. These intricate sculpt­ures were immediately cont­roversial, their naturalistic ref­erences to real people seen as unseemly for architectural carving. Opposition to the new relief sculptures was so angry that ques­t­ions were asked in Parliament.

The Pitt St carvings have since been hailed as a successful art project, its significance lying in the shaping of Sydney's urban grid and the Martin Place precinct. The stonework figures repres­ented Australians and their civic pride.

The former courtyard was converted
into a steel frame and glass roof atrium.


The 1927 renovation was a seven storey Beaux Arts Classical style rendered, brick clad, steel framed structure.

The Postal Hall now represents a signif­ic­ant part of the her­itage of the GPO building and has been not­ed in all Herit­age Man­age­ment Plans developed for the building as having her­it­age sig­nif­icance; that it shouldn’t be changed in any way. Ha! The 1927 building that housed the main postal hall enclosed by the Victorian era building was demolished, its Postal Hall reconstructed and a long span steel frame and glass roof structure added as an atrium.

The reworking of the interior retained most of the building's highly sig­nificant wrought iron arched structure. Large spaces in the upper levels were subdivided into hotel rooms. The 1942 building grew in the Moderne style, concrete en­cased, steel frame building clad in granite and terra cotta tiles. And that year the campanile clock tower at the centre of the build­ing was removed by the Government and placed in stor­age in case of a bombing attack on Sydney. The clock was re­claimed from stor­age in 1964, but the viewing platform was never re-opened to the public.

front of GPO today 

The Australia Postal Corp­oration Act 1989 states: Australia Post shall, as far as practicable, perform its functions in a manner consistent with sound commercial practice. So the sale of the site to Singaporean property developer Far East was in breach of the Act and did not even adhere to good commerc­ial practice. It was conducted in secret, excluded Aus­tral­ian buyers, disregarded Heritage Report recommendations and was sold for a hopeless price.

Thus the GPO was privatised and leased out by the Federal Govt in 1996 as part of its asset sales. It was re­furbished in 1997-99, providing shops, restaurants, the 5-star Fullerton Hotel and the foyer of two adjoining tower blocks. And it was completed in Sept 1999, just before the 2000 Sydney Olympic Games. Some C19th elements were preserved. Note the original Dock Master's office has been preserved as Prime Restaurant, the mail sorting room is now Crystal Bar, the horse stable became the Coach Bar and the horse-and-cart unloading area is now the Subterranean Bar.

Intermezzo Italian Restaurant
surrounded by Italianate colonnades.

Conclusion
With endless extensions and renovations, the GPO building funct­ioned as NSW postal system until 1996. Now Aus­tralia Post maintains a presence only in the form of a Post Shop at the corner of Martin Place and George St; the rest is for the leisure industry.










26 comments:

Sydneysider said...

At least the GPO wasn't destroyed. Remember when the Hotel Australia was pulled down, and the Regent Theatre. Great losses.

bazza said...

Fortunately, many of these wonderful buildings have been saved even though their original use has changed or been made redundant. In the UK many magnificent Victorian & Edwardian bank building survive as civic offices or, more likely, as restaurants. The demand for the physical presence of post-offices has naturally declined with the advance of Internet use. Incidentally, Australia House in The Strand, London is magnificent inside and out, as I'm sure you know!
CLICK HERE for Bazza’s suddenly spurious Blog ‘To Discover Ice’

Hels said...

Sydneysider

At least the GPO wasn't destroyed, thank goodness!!!

Years ago I wrote that Melbourne was not settled as early as Sydney's or Tasmania's towns, so Melbourne was going to have almost no colonial architecture and not too much early Victorian architecture.
https://melbourneblogger.blogspot.com/2016/11/rare-australian-colonial-architecture.html

But Sydney had splendid 19th century buildings, which now we realise should have been protected. The Hotel Metropole was gorgeous, but who even remembers now what it looked like, except for old photos?

Hels said...

bazza

I was thinking that the most special buildings should have been preserved AND used for their original purpose. But you are quite right. If their original use changed irreversibly or was made redundant, no private or government department would even pay money for the old building! Let alone put truck loads of money into renovations and modernisation.

Australia House in London is stunning, yes. But I am not sure we can compare rich British architectural culture with skimpy efforts in colonial Australia, New Zealand etc. Preservation of whatever is left here ... is critical!

Anonymous said...

I must have a proper look the next time I visit Sydney. It is locally still quite a dominating building.

mem said...

MMM the white shoe brigade sound like they got busy there with the selling off of this building . Oh curses be on the white blokes of a certain age who just believe in money and "progress"

Hels said...

Andrew

I think Melburnians poo poo our northern brothers about their sport, humid weather, espresso bars, public transport, tree lined streets and every other thing (other than their surf beaches). But Sydney had very fine colonial and Victorian architecture which I see in Jim's blog: Sydney - City and Suburbs.

Find the page called "Sydney Heritage: The most famous listed buildings", but even there, there aren't heaps of 19th century buildings recorded. Luckily, when my parents in law were still alive, we visited Sydney every 3 months and I made it my business to visit many of Sydney's lovely architectural treasures.

Hels said...

mem

The Australia Postal Corp­oration Act 1989 was apparently worth sod all. The heritage type building was secretly sold off to a foreign property developer without opening up the sale to public inspection in Australia. Even the Heritage Report recommendations were totally ignored.

So if the potential buyers are capitalist developers who don't give a stuff about Australian history and heritage, who can we rely on? The Department of Planning, Lands and Heritage? Apparently not :(

Fun60 said...

I find it both sad and unbelievable that it was sold off to a foreign developer without the insistence that its heritage must be preserved.

Hels said...

Fun60

The Dictionary of Sydney said there was hardly any choice. With pressing economic rationalism and privatisation in the late 1980s, the charter of Australia Post changed, with a greater focus on commercial operations. The building was converted for use as a hotel in the early 1990s. This conversion required the gutting of the building's interior and the demolition of the building's C20th additions.

Australia Post sold the property, subject to final regulatory approval, to Singaporean international property developer Far East in 2017 for $150 million. But it never announced the deal, so how was there ever going to be regulatory approval?? I am still upset :(

Britta said...

Wow, that is an impressive building with an interesting history, Helen!
Post buildings are in many countries (as well as stations) surprisingly "pompous" - the one in Hamburg, so impressive - and in Amsterdam I was in a beautiful one, which they changed now to a shopping mail. Tendency in Germany is to cram the post into shops - strange development .

mem said...

one of the reasons an ICAC is essential . I am not sure this would happen again or if it did the screams would be loud !!

Pipistrello said...

I love our Victorian sandstone beauties (that still remain!!) but I don't think I've noticed the Pitt Street workers' sculptures before so will seek them out when I'm next passing by. It must be above the present Hotel entrance so it's usually too busy there to stop and look properly. Although I cut through once last year and the commercial spaces under the atrium were looking like a ghost town, which fills me with dread that some even worse future for the old GPO lays ahead.

Hels said...

Britta

I quite agree. Many services that were once essential to the functioning of a successful community are needed less today eg orphanages, work houses, churches on every corner, giant post offices, giant monasteries etc.

Perfect timing to have a look at some of the alternatives that happened to old London fire stations.
https://melbourneblogger.blogspot.com/2021/06/londons-fire-station-architecture-still.html

Hels said...

mem

I wonder if there is a difference between uncontrolled capitalism and corruption. Certainly there should have already been an Independent Commission Against Corruption, but was anyone aware enough of the wrongdoing to make a referral?

I know of developers who weren't allowed to destroy a large protected building in Melbourne, so they had the wreckers do the work at 3 am on a weekend. The developers had to pay a fine, of course, so they simply shrugged and added the fine into the building costs.

Hels said...

Pipistrello

it is possible that worse will not happen any time soon because the Singaporean Far East Co. spent a fortune developing the beautiful hotel etc. But again that would be their decision based on profit-making, not on protecting Australian architectural heritage.

In THIS morning's news, the current managers of the John Curtin hotel in Lygon St Carlton revealed that their building would be sold at the end of its current lease, probably to be replaced with a large block of flats. Since the 1860s, the facility has been vital for workers, unions, students, Labour politicians and journalists downstairs, and musicians in their bands upstairs. I don't even drink beer, but tearing down the pub will be a heart breaker.

Hilary Melton-Butcher said...

Hi Hels - what a stunning building ... it looks like it's been beautifully restored and will make a great addition to central Sydney. Loved seeing the photos - all the best, Hilary

hels said...

Hilary,
I think the Post Master General might have been correct when he said the Sydney GPO was the finest building in the Southern Hemisphere in 1874. The nation was yet to be federated, but an economic boom and a commitment to public services augered well for the young nation.

Luiz Gomes said...

Boa tarde. Parabéns pelo seu excelente trabalho. Obrigado pela visita e carinho.

Hels said...

Luiz

Hopefully important historical architecture is protected on Heritage Registers in all countries. That way, even if a building needs to be updated or used for a new purpose, all the protected parts of the original architecture are guaranteed for the future.

Parnassus said...

Hello Hels, It sounds like the story of Sydney's GPO is business as usual. OF course, there are conflicting issues in any restoration, and all desirables ideas cannot be followed, but the whole process should be aboveboard and the issues given a thorough public airing before any decisions are made or contracts granted. Incidentally, my two least favorite words when discussing any historic preservation are "at least" which always seem to signal a major cave-in of ideals as well as buildings, structural elements and access to same. Incidentally, for a more happy ending to a post office renovation, look at Taipei's Beimen extensive post office, which was getting very run down but now has been beautifully restored and is still a post office.
--Jim

Hels said...

Parnassus

I had to look up the history of Taipei's Beimen post office, and found it both fascinating and relevant to this debate.

The construction was c1890 as a simple wooden building burnt twice and was rebuilt. So the plan to build the new cement headquarters, the version to be protected, wasn't fulfilled until 1928-1930. Even then, more changes were made as the role of the post office changed and increased throughout the 60s and 70s. It was then postal officials wanted to demolish the whole building because they said it was dilapidated! A very familiar story!!

I am guessing that being called a National Historic Site was what protected this post office; it still looks fantastic from the outside photos.

CATCO Enterprises said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Hels said...

CATCO

I am glad you read the post and enjoyed it, but no advertising please.

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Hels said...

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I agree that the very impressive Victorian & Edwardian buildings should be saved, even if the old bank buildings or post offices will be used for very different purposes in the future.