The Strait of Gibraltar is the narrow neck separating Europe from Africa, the only link between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. Since the Prophet died in Medina in 632 AD, the progress of Islam’s armies was rapid. Berber Tarik-ibn-Zeyad landed in 710 AD and from 742 on, the Moors defended their rock with a fort.
In 1068, the Arab Governor on Gibraltar ordered that a stronger Moorish Castle be built to watch events across the Strait. The castle had the largest keep and the tallest towers in all the Iberian Peninsula, plus buildings, gates and fortified walls. In 1160 the Caliph of Morocco commissioned a fully fortified city. The Rock remained in Arab hands until an unexpected Spanish attack between 1309-33, then it reverted to Arab control. The Moors’ City Walls surrounded the city, later strengthened by other nations.
The King of Castile’s troops finally captured Gibraltar from the Moors in 1462 and permanently expelled them. 3 years later, the Duke of Medina's son was confirmed as the owner of the Rock by Royal Decree. When Isabella became Queen of Castile in 1474, she wanted Gibraltar back. She granted Gibraltar the Castle, Key and Coat of Arms. Note Gibraltar’s flag: a three-towered red castle and key.
In the Battle of Trafalgar 1805, Napoleon was allied with Spain in planning an invasion of Britain. The British fleet was commanded by Horacio Nelson and the combined Franco-Spanish fleet was commanded by Gen Villenueve. For two years, the fleets chased each other around the Atlantic and Mediterranean, before finally clashing at the Battle of Trafalgar where Nelson died.
The mid C18th census showed the Jewish population to be 575 out of 1,800 civilian inhabitants (32%). Jews were given the right to permanent settlement in 1749, when the community's first Rabbi arrived from London and established the Great Synagogue. Three more synagogues were built as the Jewish population continued to grow into the mid-19th century. Today Gibraltar's Jewish community has five kosher institutions, one primary school and two high schools.
Given Gibraltar's historical military role, it was not till the early C19th that the military governor focused on civilians’ social needs. By 1815 the governor created the Grand Parade, where locals could walk out of the extreme heat. Grand Parade became a hub of ceremonial military events.
In 1817 the Exchange and Commercial Library was founded for civilians. Soon after, a Charter of Justice was granted, civilian magistracy established and civil rights were given to citizens. A Supreme Court was created, with a chief justice and jury system. In 1830, responsibility for local affairs was transferred from the War Office to the Colonial Office, and the status of Gibraltar was changed from the “Garrison of Gibraltar in the Kingdom of Spain”, to the “Crown Colony of Gibraltar”. A local Police Force arrived in 1830.
Great Synagogue, Gibraltar
At their peak in 1865, Gibraltar's fortifications housed 681 guns mounted in 110 batteries, guarding all land and sea approaches to Gibraltar. Lord Airey's Batteries were completed in 1891 and are located at the highest point on Gibraltar. The Military Heritage Centre is housed in one of the many batteries still found today.
The promenade was expanded to include 8 hectares of land for the Alameda Poplar Gardens. The gardens were laid out with interconnecting paths and terraced beds of local limestone. Gas lighting was introduced along Grand Parade.
In WW1 Spain remained neutral and was not a danger to Gibraltar. But Germany’s growing power led the British Government to expand its Navy. This heightened Gibraltar's role as major naval base, to keep the Straits clear of enemy shipping. The Bay developed modern dockyards, harbour and repair facilities for Allied warships.
The civilian population was evacuated to Britain and Jamaica, and 230 years of political gains under British rule seemed lost. However read how this isthmus played a role in defeating Hitler: Defending The Rock, Nicholas Rankin, Faber & Faber, 2017. In any case, the post-war years saw a growing demand for greater self-government, plus progress in medical, educational and housing services.
Perched on the peak of the Rock is the Top Station of The Cable Car 1966. There are great views across the Straits of Gibraltar to Africa, to Spain and the Mediterranean. This Cable Car was constructed by the Swiss, but within the Top Station complex there is an “English” pub and shop.
Surrounded by sea, Gibraltar has 5 beaches: Catalan Bay, Camp Bay, Eastern Beach, Sandy Bay and Little Bay. Catalan Bay beach has the charm of a fishing village with attractive pubs and marinas.
In 1963 Gibraltar's status came before the UN Special Committee on Decolonisation. A 1967 referendum asked Gibraltans whether they wanted to remain British or become Spanish. 12,000+ people voted for Britain while 44 chose Spain!! Nonetheless Spain caused the complete closure of the border in 1969. Gen Franco had besieged the territory and cut it off, by telephone, land and by sea.
Barbary Apes' Den
Gibraltar (pop 34,000) was granted a new Constitution by Britain and their House of Assembly was established. The New Constitution of May 1969 stated that Gibraltar would never be handed to Spain without an Act of Parliament and without the people's consent. Gibraltar gained control over its own civil service, and power now lay in a democratically elected government under a Chief Minister. In 1973 Gibraltar joined the EU.
Franco’s death in 1975 led to an agreement which declared that both UK and Spain were committed to solve all differences; Spain would lift the restrictions. The election of a socialist government in Madrid oversighted the full opening of the border in 1984. Today Gibraltar is a British Territory that is self-governing except for foreign policy, which is controlled by Britain.
A former building for Franciscan friars, The Convent was named in 1531 by a wealthy Spaniard. Today it is the residence of Gibraltar’s Governor, the Queen's representative in Gibraltar. The red brick Jacobean style frontage is perfect for the weekly Changing of the Guard.
These days Cathedral Cave makes a unique crystalline auditorium for music, ballets and dramas. The mosque once built in the city centre for the Muslims was later converted by the Spanish into a Catholic church, now Cathedral of St Mary the Crowned.
Botanical Gardens
By 1991 Alameda Gardens were converted into the Gibraltar Botanical Gardens, a paradise for wildlife. At the Barbary Apes' Den see apes up close, and see the whales and dolphins in the Bay below.
marinas, Gibraltar
Spain retained the Rock, and used it as an important naval base. The opportunity for Britain to capture Gibraltar arose with the War of the Spanish Succession (1702-13). The Rock became a pawn in the struggle between rival claimants to the Spanish throne, Frenchman Philip V of Anjou & Austrian Archduke Charles III. When the Rock fell to an Anglo-Dutch force in 1704, all Spanish inhabitants left for Spain.
The Cable Car, Gibraltar
The Rock was formally ceded by Spain to Britain under the Treaty of Utrecht 1713 and was used as a trading post. But Spain was never able to accept their lost territory. The worst siege was France and Spain’s Great Siege in 1779, which lasted 3.5 years. The Governor put guns into the precipitous northern face by tunnelling through the rockface.In the Battle of Trafalgar 1805, Napoleon was allied with Spain in planning an invasion of Britain. The British fleet was commanded by Horacio Nelson and the combined Franco-Spanish fleet was commanded by Gen Villenueve. For two years, the fleets chased each other around the Atlantic and Mediterranean, before finally clashing at the Battle of Trafalgar where Nelson died.
The mid C18th census showed the Jewish population to be 575 out of 1,800 civilian inhabitants (32%). Jews were given the right to permanent settlement in 1749, when the community's first Rabbi arrived from London and established the Great Synagogue. Three more synagogues were built as the Jewish population continued to grow into the mid-19th century. Today Gibraltar's Jewish community has five kosher institutions, one primary school and two high schools.
Given Gibraltar's historical military role, it was not till the early C19th that the military governor focused on civilians’ social needs. By 1815 the governor created the Grand Parade, where locals could walk out of the extreme heat. Grand Parade became a hub of ceremonial military events.
In 1817 the Exchange and Commercial Library was founded for civilians. Soon after, a Charter of Justice was granted, civilian magistracy established and civil rights were given to citizens. A Supreme Court was created, with a chief justice and jury system. In 1830, responsibility for local affairs was transferred from the War Office to the Colonial Office, and the status of Gibraltar was changed from the “Garrison of Gibraltar in the Kingdom of Spain”, to the “Crown Colony of Gibraltar”. A local Police Force arrived in 1830.
Great Synagogue, Gibraltar
At their peak in 1865, Gibraltar's fortifications housed 681 guns mounted in 110 batteries, guarding all land and sea approaches to Gibraltar. Lord Airey's Batteries were completed in 1891 and are located at the highest point on Gibraltar. The Military Heritage Centre is housed in one of the many batteries still found today.
In WW1 Spain remained neutral and was not a danger to Gibraltar. But Germany’s growing power led the British Government to expand its Navy. This heightened Gibraltar's role as major naval base, to keep the Straits clear of enemy shipping. The Bay developed modern dockyards, harbour and repair facilities for Allied warships.
St Michael's Cave, Gibraltar
Used for concerts
By 1939 Mussolini joined Hitler, and a new theatre of war opened in the Mediterranean. There was a very real danger that France’s Gen Franco would join the men who had helped him win Spain, imperilling Gibraltar. The Royal Engineers added c40Km of tunnels and chambers, dug out of the limestone. An underground city grew, with its own hospitals, electricity, telephones, water distillers and foodstores.
The civilian population was evacuated to Britain and Jamaica, and 230 years of political gains under British rule seemed lost. However read how this isthmus played a role in defeating Hitler: Defending The Rock, Nicholas Rankin, Faber & Faber, 2017. In any case, the post-war years saw a growing demand for greater self-government, plus progress in medical, educational and housing services.
Perched on the peak of the Rock is the Top Station of The Cable Car 1966. There are great views across the Straits of Gibraltar to Africa, to Spain and the Mediterranean. This Cable Car was constructed by the Swiss, but within the Top Station complex there is an “English” pub and shop.
Surrounded by sea, Gibraltar has 5 beaches: Catalan Bay, Camp Bay, Eastern Beach, Sandy Bay and Little Bay. Catalan Bay beach has the charm of a fishing village with attractive pubs and marinas.
In 1963 Gibraltar's status came before the UN Special Committee on Decolonisation. A 1967 referendum asked Gibraltans whether they wanted to remain British or become Spanish. 12,000+ people voted for Britain while 44 chose Spain!! Nonetheless Spain caused the complete closure of the border in 1969. Gen Franco had besieged the territory and cut it off, by telephone, land and by sea.
Barbary Apes' Den
Gibraltar (pop 34,000) was granted a new Constitution by Britain and their House of Assembly was established. The New Constitution of May 1969 stated that Gibraltar would never be handed to Spain without an Act of Parliament and without the people's consent. Gibraltar gained control over its own civil service, and power now lay in a democratically elected government under a Chief Minister. In 1973 Gibraltar joined the EU.
Franco’s death in 1975 led to an agreement which declared that both UK and Spain were committed to solve all differences; Spain would lift the restrictions. The election of a socialist government in Madrid oversighted the full opening of the border in 1984. Today Gibraltar is a British Territory that is self-governing except for foreign policy, which is controlled by Britain.
A former building for Franciscan friars, The Convent was named in 1531 by a wealthy Spaniard. Today it is the residence of Gibraltar’s Governor, the Queen's representative in Gibraltar. The red brick Jacobean style frontage is perfect for the weekly Changing of the Guard.
These days Cathedral Cave makes a unique crystalline auditorium for music, ballets and dramas. The mosque once built in the city centre for the Muslims was later converted by the Spanish into a Catholic church, now Cathedral of St Mary the Crowned.
Botanical Gardens
By 1991 Alameda Gardens were converted into the Gibraltar Botanical Gardens, a paradise for wildlife. At the Barbary Apes' Den see apes up close, and see the whales and dolphins in the Bay below.
14 comments:
Hello Hels, I was wondering what happened to this post! Recently I was reading Mark Twain's The Innocents Abroad (which I plan to write more about later), describing a trip to Europe and the Mideast he took in 1867. He corroborates your account, saying that "Gibraltar is clad with masonry and bristling with guns." He goes on to describe a humorous story about how every guide there endlessly recounted a doubtful legend about "The Queen's Chair," implying the gallantry of the English troops.
--Jim
It's a fascinating history and you've researched and pulled it together really well - there's a lot of work in this. I've never been, but remember various family members/family friends talking about the base when I was small; it always sounded so grand.
The Great Synagogue of Gibraltar has been rebuilt a few times. The latest version (nineteenth century) is small but perfectly formed. Vaulted ceiling, marble floors, silver lamps.
Parnassus
Gibraltar is just 6.5 sq ks in total. If it was a sovereign state, it would rank between Monaco and Nauru is smallness. Yet the history, geography and architecture of this isthmus is chockablock with interest.
If you are touring Granada, Seville and Jerez anyhow, just nip off for two days as a side trip to Gibraltar.
Mike
by base, do you mean military base? When the British Government expanded its Navy to keep the Straits clear of enemy shipping in WW1, I think everyone suddenly became aware of Gibraltar's role as major naval base, dockyards and repair facilities for British and other Allied warships.
By 1939, even more so when Hitler, Mussolini and perhaps Franco were about to launch a new theatre of war in the Mediterranean. Gibraltar was punching above its weight.
Joseph
Many thanks. The Great Synagogue was founded in 1724 by a Rabbi from London on land granted to the Jews by the Governor of Gibraltar. The second and third synagogue buildings were destroyed during attacks by the Spanish, so I will add a photo of the fourth building on the same site.
While Gibraltar is very interesting and I know some of its more modern history, but I wasn't aware of a Jewish population. Of course things there are rather complicated as Gibraltar stares at Brexit.
The EU will support its own members, and if there is a Gibraltar crisis, that means Spain. Malta is fortunate it became a sovereign state _before_ Britain devised Brexit.
Very interesting account of the history. It is a place I have not been to.
CherryPie
I loved living in the UK, particularly because travelling around Europe was so cheap and easy. But Gibraltar is even easier because it is a British Overseas Territory. Enjoy!
Gibraltar is a truly remarkable place that punches well above it's weight in European history. I was unaware of the strong Jewish presence. I hope they keep the guns in place; you never know with Johnny Foreigner!
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bazza
The most popular organised tour is called the Military Rock and Tunnels Tour that includes visits to the super guns, the Great Siege Tunnels, the Military Heritage Centre and the Navy Base. But be a good walker :)
🙂Your Post are gorgeous and useful.Thanks for sharing your good experience with us.You is an amazing artist! 🙂🙂
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suresh
many thanks. I am a very good historian, but alas I am not an artist in any genre.
Have you ever been to Gibraltar?
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