Flinders St Station was commenced in Sep 1854, the first steam railway station built in Australia, part of Melbourne’s late C19th urban expansion. Just a collection of weather-board sheds then, the Melbourne terminus saw a single line installed, leaving for Sandridge-Port Melbourne. This temporary wooden building lasted until 1901.
Edwardian baroque building all the way down Flinders St
Completed 1910
One of the two clock towers built in 1914
The two clock towers above its entrances were built in 1914. The clocks were manufactured by Johnson’s in Sydney, and were installed in the towers in 1914 in a major engineering project. The towers needed to be braced to withstand the weight of the clock mechanisms, as were the wings connecting the main building to the towers. They remain thus today, 77 ms high and visible from 10 ks away. The large clocks in the towers were visible to railway workers, passengers and people in the streets below.
The Deco clock tower shafts were always very narrow and hollow. They were filled with bricks when the towers were built, but the bricks were removed in the 1920s to create space for the winding mechanism. Inside the shafts, there’s now room for passengers to climb the stairs and look out the windows high over the city. The shafts were held up by a series of wooden joists and beams, meaning that they were extremely flexible and able to withstand constant use.
The small clocks at its entrance, indicating next departure times for Melbourne's train lines, were once manually changed for each departure by station attendants with a two-way radio and a long pole: 900 times every 8 hours. The actual timekeeping mechanism was in an adjacent room, and the power from the weights was transmitted to the mechanism by a series of pulleys. The clocks were wound manually once every week, with a winding key in the basement. The clocks are computerised now.
The Deco clock tower shafts were always very narrow and hollow. They were filled with bricks when the towers were built, but the bricks were removed in the 1920s to create space for the winding mechanism. Inside the shafts, there’s now room for passengers to climb the stairs and look out the windows high over the city. The shafts were held up by a series of wooden joists and beams, meaning that they were extremely flexible and able to withstand constant use.
The small clocks at its entrance, indicating next departure times for Melbourne's train lines, were once manually changed for each departure by station attendants with a two-way radio and a long pole: 900 times every 8 hours. The actual timekeeping mechanism was in an adjacent room, and the power from the weights was transmitted to the mechanism by a series of pulleys. The clocks were wound manually once every week, with a winding key in the basement. The clocks are computerised now.
9 of the 13 clocks at the station's entrance
Note the steps where people wait for friends and family
There are 13 clocks still displayed to this day, indicating the different train departures to each suburban train line. The wide steps underneath the clocks are used as a popular meeting place; I’ll meet you under the clocks refers to this row of clocks that line the wall above the main entrance. The steps have been so popular that they were refitted later to include winter heating.
The station was built as a terminus for both passenger and cargo rail services, as well as a major centre for goods distribution. Located at Swanston and Flinders Sts corner and stretched along the Yarra River covering two city blocks, the station looks magnificent in its ornate baroque style architecture.
The station had a major upgrade in the 1920s, with the addition of side wings and a pedestrian subway linking Flinders St with Swanston St. By the mid 1920s Flinders St was the busiest train station in the entire world serving up to 300,000 passengers a day! It outdid Gare St Lazare Paris, Grand Central NY and Liverpool St London.
The clock tower shafts were made of sandstone, with architectural features in the Art Deco style including geometric shapes, chevrons and stylised leaves. The new pieces of architectural decoration that were added in upgrade were a] an architectural cartouche featuring a stylised peacock, a symbol of immortality. And b] a stylised depiction of a ship, a symbol of Melbourne’s role as a major port.
The clock tower shafts were made of sandstone, with architectural features in the Art Deco style including geometric shapes, chevrons and stylised leaves. The new pieces of architectural decoration that were added in upgrade were a] an architectural cartouche featuring a stylised peacock, a symbol of immortality. And b] a stylised depiction of a ship, a symbol of Melbourne’s role as a major port.
Interior spaces could be leased for facilities, from the basement to 4 floors up. Most of the top floor was reserved for the Victorian Railways Institute which later included a lecture theatre. This was eventually converted into a grand ballroom, popular for dances in the 50s and 60s; library; billiard room; gymnasium-boxing ring; and roof-top running track where the male employees exercised during breaks.
Foyer inside the front entrance
with ticket booths
The station opened a children’s nursery in June 1933, with cot rooms, playrooms, kitchen and a rooftop playground. Mothers travelling by train left their youngsters cared by qualified nurses while shopping in the city. The nursery temporarily closed in 1937 during a polio epidemic and permanently closed in the war in 1942. After WW2, the grand ballroom became a cultural hub, hosting concerts, dances and gatherings. But it closed in mid-1980s and fell apart.
In 1954, to cater for the increasing traffic, as well as for the 1956 summer Olympics, the subway from the station was extended to the north side of Flinders St. In March 1966 Platform 1 was extended to 708 ms, stretching two city blocks from Swanston St, the longest platform in Australia. It is still servicing two rural lines.
It is interesting that the original indicator clocks were removed and replaced with digital displays in the 1980s, but a huge public outcry resulted in the old clocks being restored within a day! This station still boasts crowds of travellers on its stairs, concourses, underpasses and platforms.
24 comments:
A wonderful post about an amazing place, digital displays are good but are now days young people can't read the old analogue clocks which is sad
So interesting to read about Flinders Station. It is my regular photo walk meeting spot with various groups.
What a gorgeous building. It speaks to the grand old days of train travel, and that makes it a little bit romantic. Have a lovely weekend.
Half a million pounds is an awful lot of money in the 1800s. Given the station is over 100 hundred years old and has been used by millions of people, it was money well spent.
I see I am not alone my my clock memory. Yes, digital clocks were going to replace the clocks we know and love, but it never happened, such was the outcry when the great unwashed heard of the plan. I wonder if anyone nowadays actually checks the clocks for the next train when all the information can be on your phone screen.
A great building in Melbourne Hels.
Thank for the history of it and wow a lot of money back then but well worth it.
Between 1880–1890 Melbourne was booming rapidly in population and property, the second-largest city in the British Empire. No wonder Flinders St Railway Station, Royal Exhibition Building and Melbourne University were built to impress. The citizens called it Marvellous Melbourne for a good reason.
It's a very beautiful station and I hope it stays that way. Our Adelaide station was nice enough, but not at all comparable, then "they" built a casino on top of it and the underground part which is the actual station has never been the same.
Jo-Anne
Change is always inevitable, but young people not being able to tell the time from an analogue clock is fairly humiliating. I know it is true because, when my watch band broke and I asked to borrow a wrist watch from my grandchildren, each said "for goodness sake granny, I haven't had a watch for years.... I only use my smartphone".
roentare
I didn't realise you organised and led photo walks with different groups. But your meeting place in front of the Flinders St Station is ideal. Firstly the station is perfectly located for people from all over town, and secondly the architecture is stunning!
Erika
Melbourne also has trams (which I love, but they travel slowly) and buses (which pollute and smell). But our railway system is fast, clean, well spread all around the city and reminds us of the glory days of the pre-WW1 decades. Perfect :)
Andrew
you are probably right in assuming that nowadays few people would check the clocks for the next train, given that all the information can be on your phone screen. However the clocks signify Melbourne so I hope that they are never taken down.
By the way, the development costs changed from time to time. Not the first huge project where some plans were not finished or some services were closed down, imagine the railway architects and engineers having to survive Great Depressions or World Wars. Or in the case of Sydney Opera House, coping with a new government that didn't approve of the original contracts.
It is a very impressive structure. I love the name, Flinders Street.
Margaret
I should have added in the post that Melbourne was spending a HUGE amount of money on spectacular architecture at the one time. Just as well some of those treasures have survived till today, because a Marvellous Melbourne era may never happen again.
Train Man
Money was sloshing around the Southern Capital City in the late 19th century, after the gold rush in Central Victoria. But what happened to working families and to the unemployed.. at the same time? Could they have sent their children to Melbourne University, newly laid out and gloriously built? Could they have loved going to the stunning Princess Theatre on a Saturday night? I think Marvellous Melbourne was not equally spread around for all citizens.
River
I have been to the Adelaide casino but I had no idea of the history. So thank you.
Adelaide's neo-classical railway station design externally and internally harked back to C19th although the building material was not stone or brick but reinforced concrete. During the 1980s much of the interior has been refurbished, facades cleaned and restored, and a large section approached from the original main entry hall on the east has been converted sympathetically to the Adelaide Casino.
https://d31atr86jnqrq2.cloudfront.net/heritage-places/heritage-place-information-sheet-north-terrace-adelaide-railway-station.pdf
jabblog
When I was in high school and had never been overseas yet, I thought Flinders St Station was the most beautiful railway building anywhere. Later I saw Kings Cross London, Kuala Lumpur Railway Station etc and decided that every city wants its central railway station to be fabulous.
This tour starts off under the clocks which has been Melbourne’s favourite meeting place for decades. From there it takes you over the concourse, along its platforms and through its subways as you are taken back in time to the period of romantic travel. Unfortunately access to the Ballroom is not possible due to State Government requirements! Hear about the first juice bar in Melbourne established in 1926, a crèche with an outdoor play area created in the 1930s and more! The tour is 2 hours and is limited to 14 people. $65 per person
Flinders Street Station tour
MELTours
Hi Hels - I'm glad they've remembered Flinders - so much could be written about Sir Flinders Petrie, and his parents ... I think there's a route N - S from Adelaide north ... named after both his antecedents. The architecture from those days is so much more interesting than much today ... cheers Hilary
A building I admired when I visited Melbourne in 2012. Interesting to read about the clicks. Thank heavens there was a public outcry about their removal. Digital clocks are functional but soulless
Hello Hels, Nice to see this station looking so spruce. Of all types of historic buildings, train stations have perhaps suffered the most preservation-wise, as there is so much less passenger service, and what there is has become mere utilitarian. You might like this video of three lost NYC icons, ably discussed by an architect, and with the famous Penn Station covered first:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6dEqggG6aE
--Jim
Meltours
Perfect.. many thanks. Is there any analysis of the architecture or the decorative arts?
Hilary
Flinders street was named after English explorer, Matthew Flinders, an early arrival in Port Phillip and therefore in Melbourne. Running alongside Melbourne's most important river, the Yarra, this was and is a main city thoroughfare for trams, trains, hotels, blocks of flats and churches, offices and shops.
I agree with you re late Victorian architecture often being more interesting than modern stuff.
Parnassus
thank you for your youtube reference which I hope readers will have a good look at.
How dismal is it that train stations have suffered the most preservation-wise because they were almost always beautifully designed, solidly built and perfectly located. We should have been preserving these icons FIRST!
Fun60
I think the original clocks were critical to preserve because they represent a surviving heritage from Marvellous Melbourne. Some of the most beautiful Victorian and Edwardian sites were destroyed, or mangled beyond recognition. Cultural history concerns many people a great deal, but others don't seem to give a flying toss.
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