Levi Strauss Co. Building, San Francisco
1907Levi Strauss (1829–1902) was born in Buttenheim Bavaria, 7th child of Hirsch and Rebecca Strauss. Two older brothers had already migrated to the USA, and bought a wholesale dry goods business-textiles in NY called Strauss Brothers. A couple of years after his father died of TB in 1846, Levi emigrated to New York with his widowed mother and sisters. It was unclear if the family had been struggling financially in Germany without a father, or if they were escaping the oppressive legislation Jews faced in 1840s Germany. In any case, he happily became an American citizen.
When New Yorkers heard of the California Gold Rush, Levi travelled overland to San Francisco in 1853 to make a living. He established a wholesale dry goods business and served as the West Coast agent of the family’s New York firm. Levi eventually renamed his west coast company Levi Strauss & Co, serving the small general shops of the American West.
Only in 1872 did Levi receive a letter from a customer, tailor Jacob Davis from Reno Nevada. In his letter Davis discussed the unique way he made stronger pants for his customers, via copper rivets at points of strain. Davis, himself a Latvian immigrant, wanted to patent this new idea, needed a business partner to help. Levi was impressed and the patent (for Improvement in Fastening Pocket-Openings) was granted to Davis and Strauss in 1873.
Blue jeans appeared for the first time, made from denim. Denim comes from a sturdy fabric called serge de Nîmes-denim initially made in France. Although denim had been used for workwear for years, the newly added rivets made a big difference. Their 1886 Two Horse Trademark showed two horses attempting to pull apart a pair of Levi's waist overalls - this logo symbolised the great clothing in a competitive market.
And Levi had other business pursuits during his career. In 1875, Levi and two associates purchased the Mission and Pacific Woollen Mills. Then he became a charter member and treasurer of the San Francisco Board of Trade in 1877. He was a director of the Nevada Bank, the Liverpool London and Globe Insurance Co and the San Francisco Gas and Electric Co. And he served in the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce.
And he was an important patron and donor. Levi was a contributor to the Pacific Hebrew Orphan Asylum and Home, the Eureka Benevolent Society and the Hebrew Board of Relief. In 1897 Levi funded 28 scholarships at University of California Berkeley! Strauss also paid for half the cost of renovating the Jewish cemetery back in Bavaria.
Strauss must have had a problem with Chinese people. Chinese labourers had built the states’ railroads and done difficult low-wage work no one else wanted, but when recession hit in the 1870s, white Californians blamed Chinese immigrants. Bowing to popular xenophobia, Strauss dismissed his 100+ Chinese workers. The wall text quotes historian Fred Rosenbaum’s book Cosmopolitans: A Social and Cultural History of the Jews of the San Francisco Bay Area: Despite their own suffering in Europe and strong record of defending the disadvantaged, these European Jews showed no more sensitivity to the persecution of Asians than did other white Californians.”
Shortly before his death, Strauss reversed himself. He co-signed a letter to the Senate opposing renewal of the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, calling it “a gross injustice.” The act passed anyway.
When New Yorkers heard of the California Gold Rush, Levi travelled overland to San Francisco in 1853 to make a living. He established a wholesale dry goods business and served as the West Coast agent of the family’s New York firm. Levi eventually renamed his west coast company Levi Strauss & Co, serving the small general shops of the American West.
Only in 1872 did Levi receive a letter from a customer, tailor Jacob Davis from Reno Nevada. In his letter Davis discussed the unique way he made stronger pants for his customers, via copper rivets at points of strain. Davis, himself a Latvian immigrant, wanted to patent this new idea, needed a business partner to help. Levi was impressed and the patent (for Improvement in Fastening Pocket-Openings) was granted to Davis and Strauss in 1873.
Blue jeans appeared for the first time, made from denim. Denim comes from a sturdy fabric called serge de Nîmes-denim initially made in France. Although denim had been used for workwear for years, the newly added rivets made a big difference. Their 1886 Two Horse Trademark showed two horses attempting to pull apart a pair of Levi's waist overalls - this logo symbolised the great clothing in a competitive market.
And Levi had other business pursuits during his career. In 1875, Levi and two associates purchased the Mission and Pacific Woollen Mills. Then he became a charter member and treasurer of the San Francisco Board of Trade in 1877. He was a director of the Nevada Bank, the Liverpool London and Globe Insurance Co and the San Francisco Gas and Electric Co. And he served in the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce.
And he was an important patron and donor. Levi was a contributor to the Pacific Hebrew Orphan Asylum and Home, the Eureka Benevolent Society and the Hebrew Board of Relief. In 1897 Levi funded 28 scholarships at University of California Berkeley! Strauss also paid for half the cost of renovating the Jewish cemetery back in Bavaria.
Strauss must have had a problem with Chinese people. Chinese labourers had built the states’ railroads and done difficult low-wage work no one else wanted, but when recession hit in the 1870s, white Californians blamed Chinese immigrants. Bowing to popular xenophobia, Strauss dismissed his 100+ Chinese workers. The wall text quotes historian Fred Rosenbaum’s book Cosmopolitans: A Social and Cultural History of the Jews of the San Francisco Bay Area: Despite their own suffering in Europe and strong record of defending the disadvantaged, these European Jews showed no more sensitivity to the persecution of Asians than did other white Californians.”
Shortly before his death, Strauss reversed himself. He co-signed a letter to the Senate opposing renewal of the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, calling it “a gross injustice.” The act passed anyway.
Advertising for the denim jeans
Note Levi Strauss' photo in the top left
Two Horse Trademark since 1886
showing two horses attempting to pull apart a pair of Levi's waist overalls
San Francisco's Contemporary Jewish Museum opened a Levi Strauss exhibition that ended Aug 2021. Showing 250+ items from company’s archives, Levi Strauss: A History of American Style represented the largest public display from company's enormous archival materials. Visitors saw a suit owned by Lauren Bacall, a jacket worn by Albert Einstein, a 1974 AMC Gremlin car with an interior upholstered completely in denim, and the original 1873 patent. Works in different media were on view, showing ways in which the history of jeans became a marker of American identity. It was about the evolution of casual fashion and San Francisco’s immigrant history. It showed the power of advertising and marketing, and the classic immigrant success enjoyed by young, hardworking German men.
More unexpected were the denim-decorated Torah covers referring to San Francisco, Jewish and gay history; an outfit worn by Harvey Milk; a section of the AIDS Memorial Quilt made by Levi’s employees; a flouncy denim ball gown for a San Francisco drag queen; Albert Einstein’s very chic Levi’s leather jacket; a pair of well-preserved Levi’s from 1890; rodeo clown costumes and creepy cowboy marionettes. Parts from films depicting the essential American-ness of Levi’s were shown including The Wild One (Marlon Brando), The Misfits (Marilyn Monroe), The Outsiders, The Breakfast Club, Thelma and Louise and Brokeback Mountain.
Late in the C19th, Levi was still involved in the day-to-day workings of the company. In 1890 Levi and his nephews officially incorporated the company; and Davis sold his interest back to Levi Strauss by the turn of the century.
Levi Strauss died in 1902. His estate was worth $6 million, and as his siblings had all died, the bulk of the assets was left to his beloved four nephews; further donations were made to his beloved Californian charitable foundations.
Levi Strauss died in 1902. His estate was worth $6 million, and as his siblings had all died, the bulk of the assets was left to his beloved four nephews; further donations were made to his beloved Californian charitable foundations.
More unexpected were the denim-decorated Torah covers referring to San Francisco, Jewish and gay history; an outfit worn by Harvey Milk; a section of the AIDS Memorial Quilt made by Levi’s employees; a flouncy denim ball gown for a San Francisco drag queen; Albert Einstein’s very chic Levi’s leather jacket; a pair of well-preserved Levi’s from 1890; rodeo clown costumes and creepy cowboy marionettes. Parts from films depicting the essential American-ness of Levi’s were shown including The Wild One (Marlon Brando), The Misfits (Marilyn Monroe), The Outsiders, The Breakfast Club, Thelma and Louise and Brokeback Mountain.
The exhibit displays the San Francisco of Strauss’ day, including photos of his synagogue, factories, the skyline before and after the 1906 earthquake, and brand marketing by the company. Though Levi Strauss began with rugged workwear designed for miners, the company quickly saw that cowboy myths appealed to city Americans. As America increasingly loved Western films, the company began promoting rodeos and using ads stating that genuine Levi’s were worn by all cowboys.
Palace of Manufactures, San Francisco
Panama-Pacific International Exposition, 1915
Each palace at the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition was dedicated to Fine Arts, Education, Transportation, Agriculture and other subjects. Levi Strauss & Co. built a working sewing line in its enormous booth, inside the Palace of Manufactures. It was hugely popular.
Levi Strauss was progressive in some important ways eg as far back as the 1920s, its workforce was racially integrated. The company always treated its LGBT employees with respect and dignity. It donated significant funds to fight the gay cancer before the disease was even given the name AIDS. Levi’s history is America's history in its creative, entrepreneurial, spirited glory and in its colonialist darkness.
Buy the catalogue or see the exhibits in Phyl on the Go.
21 comments:
My parents arrived in the New World without any money, but they were so pleased to be given safe haven, they worked extremely hard to give their family a decent life. Levi Strauss couldn't speak English either, but he had one great advantage - a mother and siblings who shared his goals.
Thanks. Your explanation gives some clarity of thought.
For a long time I have been amused by the name of the French structuralist anthropologist Claude Levi-Strauss! It was hard to study his writings (as part of a BA Degree) and not smile inwardly - small-minded some would say...
Brief story: The son of some friends of mine emigrated to California. He lived next to a wholesale warehouse selling all makes of denim jeans but especially Levis. The Chasidic owners took pity on this young English boy with the funny accent and allowed him make an online site (that was his skill) and sell any product as he got the orders; he did not have to hold any stock. He ended up shipping American-made jeans all over the world! Thanks for this interesting background to the industry.
CLICK HERE for Bazza’s virtually voracious Blog ‘To Discover Ice’
Joe
as you remember, whenever refugees and voluntary migrants arrived in the New World, they knew they would have to work their fingers to the bone, learn English and trust that community resources might be available to support them when needed. No one came out of an impoverished background in Europe and expected to become wealthy or even successful in the New World. That people like Levi Strauss were very successful showed how important hard work and family/community support were.
Andrew
as I wrote to Phyl on the Go, this topic came up because we in Australia are facing Federal elections in May 2022. One of our minor party's main policies were disgusting - 1] Remove Australia from the U.N. Refugee Convention, 2] Ban travel from known extremist countries and 3] Divert asylum seekers to the first safe country they reach. Levi Strauss was yet another example of a migrant _improving_ his destination country!!
See One Nation
https://www.onenation.org.au/asylum-seekers-and-refugees
bazza
your friends' son did well in a new country because shipping American-made jeans all over the world was a worthy legacy for Levi Strauss, 120 years after he died. In 120 years, will anyone remember our names? or our work and community contributions?
Perhaps even more importantly, the business owners recognised the young man's special skills and hard work, and supported him totally.
Bom dia. Parabéns pelo seu excelente trabalho e pesquisa. Adorei conhecer um pouco sobre essa história.
Luiz
There probably isn't a person in the world who doesn't know about jeans, but the history of the industry is fascinating. I even wore jeans myself in the middle and late 1960s :)
Fashion Designing Institute
I wonder if your students ever discuss the history of denim, copper rivets, trousers that women could wear, informal jackets and the power of advertising in a new market. Thank goodness the company’s archives were well kept, as your libraries will find in "Levi Strauss: A History of American Style".
Good to see you, Helen. I just want to add another group of books you might enjoy about Levi Strauss - by the late Lynn Downey.
Ex Pat,
many thanks for alerting me to Lynn Downey. At Amazon I immediately found the former Levi Strauss historian's books:
1.Levi Strauss & Co.
2.Levi Strauss: The Man Who Gave Blue Jeans to the World and
3.Beyond Blue Jeans: The Facts of Levi Strauss’s Life.
what an interesting post . I often take a break from doing my work writing up patient notes to read your blog posts Hels :)
Levi was an admirable person , not just because he was forward thinking and shared his wealth but because he was able to overcome bigotries .I truly wish that this could happen in the middle east , so much stress and bother could be nullified by a recognition of so much in common, so much suffering and discriminations suffered by all concerned. Its so disappointing that those just up the rung in the immigration stakes happily sink the boot into the newest arrivals just as they were also targeted . It just seems to be a human thing !!:( Its just boggling to me that this seems to be as it ever was.
on a happier front I had an idea . Why don't you send this post to the Bendigo art gallery . They are forever looking at new exhibitions and seem to have carved out a spot for themselves in fashion so I recon they might be interested . The Levi company might have it as a travelling exhibition that could be brought to Australia???
mem
I loved living in Bendigo (decades ago) for two years; although the winters were a bit cold, the architecture, galleries, sports grounds and historical sites were terrific. But I had no idea that the Bendigo Art Gallery were particularly interested in fashion history. You should feel free to send the San Francisco's Contemporary Jewish Museum details and "Levi Strauss: A History of American Style" to Bendigo Art Gallery!!
Levi was German and American, but every person in Australia would have been influenced by his fashions at some stage in their lives.
How very interesting! Thank you for sharing this history. I am sad to read about his dealing with the Chinese labourers though.
Handmade
The Chinese Exclusion Act was inexcusable, and so was the company's behaviour in sacking all its Chinese workers. Thankfully the company post-WW1 became arguably the most integrated, inclusive and generous private industry in the US.
The United States had completed the construction of the Panama Canal in 1914, creating a commercial and maritime link between the Atlantic and the Pacific. This had a profound effect on San Francisco, and the city decided to hold an exposition to celebrate the achievement.
Plus San Francisco had rebuilt and recovered from the ravages of the 1906 earthquake and fire. Local businesses were approached for help with the funding, and Levi Strauss & Co. was one of the biggest donors. In 1915, the Panama-Pacific International Exposition (PPIE) opened its doors. Levi Strauss & Co. built a working sewing line in its enormous booth inside the Palace of Manufactures and Varied Industries.
Tracey Panek, LS&Co. Historian
Levi S
What an amazing photo, many thanks. I had no idea that the Company was that important a part of the Panama-Pacific International Exposition in 1915.
Hi Hels - what an interesting post and appropriate comments ... fascinating read - thank you ... cheers Hilary
Hilary
even if your mum would never allow you out of the house looking like a "cowboy", we were all well aware of the changes this poor, young, non English speaker made to the world. He, his family and workers were fantastic.
The architecture, galleries, sports grounds and historical sites were terrific. But I had no idea that the Bendigo Art Gallery were particularly interested in fashion history.
Interior Design Course in Kolkata
Aloke
Bendigo Art Gallery is located right in the middle of rural Victoria and has to attract a wide range of viewing audiences. My favourite exhibition for 2022 was The Sitter: Portraits Across the Collection, but I know other people preferred Gene Doucette: Designing for Elvis.
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