transport from Southern Italy to Sicily
On Sicily's Nth coast the sunny city is a dream for architecture fans, right on the Mediterranean's cross roads. Palermo shows a striking mix of architectural styles, after centuries of conquest & differing cultural influences, a rich history of local civilisations. It changed from a Carthaginian stronghold to a Roman province, reaching its cultural peak in Arab rule (831–1072) and then Christian Norman conquerors, creating the unique Arab-Norman architectural style seen now.
Palermo has many fine museums, Sicily's Regional Gallery being housed in a stunning C15th Gothic-Catalan palace and containing iconic works of medieval and Renaissance art. Separately Palermo noted that a Goddess Artemis fragment belonging to the Parthenon’s eastern frieze on loan from Sicily’s Archaeological Museum will remain in Athens. And the Vatican will return Marble fragments from the Vatican Museums, with papal donations
Royal Norman Palace of the Kings of Sicily created in C12th, had the beautiful Palatine Chapel in its 2nd floor. Inside the chapel is decorated with beautiful golden mosaics, and the ceiling is very different from any other Christian church. Carved wood in an Islamic style. Tickets to the Norman Palace include entry to Palatine Chapel, Royal Apartments, Royal Gardens and special exhibitions.
Palermo Cathedral, built 1185, was built on a Byzantine Church. See the architectural styles that reflect the long history of additions & renovations to the cathedral. In a chapel, right of the altar, lies St Rosalie, patron saint of Palermo. And see the tomb of Blessed Father Puglisi, Mafia-killed. Entry to the cathedral is free except for a visit to the rooftop for great views over the city and to the royal tombs.
The Arab-Norman architectural style features unique blends of Islamic domes & Byzantine mosaics. Palace of the Normans is a striking gold-stone example of the Arab-Norman style and home to Sicily's regional parliament, a C9th palace representing one of Europe's most ancient royal residences. And the Palatine Chapel, completed in 1142 is one of Europe's great artistic treasures with stunning Byzantine mosaics covering the walls and ceiling.
Built from 1875-97, Teatro Massimo is the largest Opera House in Italy and 3rd largest and most celebrated after Paris & Vienna Operas. Teatro Massimo’s copper dome is c250’ over the piazza below. From the rooftop, see the city’s terracotta skyline in the early evening.
C16th nude sculptures at the Piazza Pretoria
Near Quattro Canti is Praetorian Fountain, built in Florence in C16th. When the owner lost money, he sold the fountain to the City. The fountain was broken into hundreds of pieces and shipped to Palermo to be reassembled. Because of the totally nude statues, and a convent looking out onto the fountain, it was called the Square of Shame.
teatro massimo
Norman Palace
Palatine Chapel
Porta Nuova/New Gate next to the Norman palace was built when Holy Roman Emperor Charles V came to the Kingdom of Sicily in 1536 and crossed the arched entrance to Palermo. To honour the event, New Gate was completed in 1584, later destroyed by fire and then rebuilt more elaborately by the City Senate as the triumphal arched gateway leading to the oldest street, Cassaro.
Porta Nuova
Like Rome's Church of the Capuchin Monks, where there are bodies & bones arranged into art, the Capuchin Catacombs in Palermo opened 1599, to avoid throwing all the dead brothers into a mass grave. Originally only Capuchin friars were entombed in the catacombs, but in C17th & 18ths, it was a way for people to show their wealth and power. There are 2000+ mummified bodies in the catacombs now, dating to C16th-early C20th. Men were embalmed and put on display in their clothes, remarkably well preserved, as are their intact hair and skin. There's NO photography in this eerie historical site.
Capuchin catacombs
The World of Sicily
Ballaro Market is the one of the oldest street-markets in Italy & Palermo’s largest. Fish, meat, fruit & vegetables are available, complete with plenty of street food stalls. Loud and crowded, the stall holders can be very vocal advertising their produce and the atmosphere in the passionate street-life surrounds its historical outdoor markets like Arabic souks. il Capo Market is smaller and quieter than Ballaro, primarily a fish market and also has plenty of street foodstalls. The best time to visit is in the morning since many stalls close after lunch. la Vucciria Market Square in Sicilian means chaos, an apt description for this small square with its fish restaurants and food trucks.
A train runs from Naples to Sicily then drives onto the ferry, by day or on overnight sleepers. Or fly to Falcone-Borsellino Airport from several European cities or get a connecting flight via Rome. If driving to Sicily by car, vehicle ferries travel from different mainland ports to Messina, Sicily’s primary transit hub.
Summer is peak season but winter is the best time to visit when the mild weather is great for walking around the city. All the attractions are open, and there are smaller crowds! The only issue might be the fewer daylight hours in winter. Near the Norman Palace, relax in the Gardens of the Villa Bonnano with palms and citrus trees, offering relief from the city’s action. And Mondello Beach is just a short distance from the city centre, an iconic coastline with pure water and stunning Mediterranean views. Although Palermo was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015, and since I've only spent one day there, I gratefully thank Nigel and Sue Adventures.
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16 comments:
I've never had a desire to visit Italy, but I must say this northern Sicilian town sounds very attractive. I've watched videos of the train shunting for the train to board the ferry. It is a slow process.
The Jewish community lived in Palermo since the reign of Pope Gregory the Great, and remained uninterrupted until the expulsion (1492). Benjamin of Tud-ela described 3-5,000 Jews in Palermo, with several synagogues and a hospital with gardens. The Jews always lived alongside the Christians and Muslims, and were only forced to wear the distinguishing symbol during certain periods. They worked mainly as weavers, dyers and merchants, especially in silk-working. Each of its quarters had specific economic and social features.
The new synagogue and cultural centre are being established at the Oratory of Santa Maria delle Grazie, in the heart of the historic former Jewish quarter. Book a guided tour.
Andrew
I spent many years studying Italian history, art and architecture, and eating Italian foods, so each visit to that country has been a dream come true. But I had never be to Sicily, and only spent a day there en route to Malta (which was also terrific). So if you are planning to visit Sicily (or Malta), prepare in advance by reading widely.
Visit Jewish Italy
I was fascinated with Sicily's Jewish history until the expulsion, but I knew nothing about the old community being toured or the new synagogue and cultural centre being opened. Many thanks.
Curious that photography is not allowed in the Catacombs, yet at least one photographer did or we wouldn't now be able to see that image. It really is amazing how well preserved the bodies are.
River
the photo was CERTAINLY not mine... I would never walk down a corridor of preserved dead bodies, leaning forward and touching my hair :( But you are right... I should have credited the person who _did_ take the photo.
We have been to Italy a number of times, but we never visited Palermo. I enjoyed the post and the wonderful photos. What magnificent buildings.
gluten Free
exactly me too. I loved Milan, Rome, Venice, Florence and Sienna over the years, and even on the last trip, I allocated a week to Malta. But Palermo was never allocated any proper days of touring.
Now I look back, the government did not begin winning its war against the Mafia until the late part of the 20th century. So perhaps Sicily was still a little scary for tourists.
I'm like you Hels, I love Italy and will return again and again. But I haven't been further south than Florence - yet. Sicily has long been on my to-visit list and you've won me over with this wonderful post. I'd love to spent a decent amount of time there
Emm
Pre-Covid, I took 4 weeks every southern winter to travel around Europe or to go to conferences. I didn't retire from the workforce until the first Covid lockdown.
Now I'd like to start travelling again, catching up with all the travel plans that were put in hold, including Sicily, Gibraltar, Algeria and Morocco.
I just read a little about the Catacombs. The most touching and disturbing body was that of the two-year-old child, Rosalia Lombardo.
It's amazing what changed during covid. I hope you achieve your dreams of travelling to far off places again
jabblog
I understand why the Catacombs were so necessary: to avoid hurling all the dead religious brothers into a mass grave that offered neither respect nor memorial. But it would have been much more respectful to bury each brother in a separate space with his name and date on a stone.
Would you have gone into the Catacombs?
Mandy
me too!! When my son died in Israel last year, it made it crystal clear that travelling abroad is still very dangerous. Even if the would-be traveller can be fully insured before leaving home.
So our next trip will be a restful ship cruise to, and around New Zealand :)
Janki Devi
I agree with you that a Fine Art Course can help students develop artistic skills in all the different art media. But no advertising please.
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