09 July 2024

Huguenot silver: Paul de Lamarie 1730s

The first London coffee house was opened in 1652 by Pasqua Roseé, a member the English Levant Co. that traded with Turkey. In Smyrna-Izmir, he found a taste for the dark stim­ulant drink. With time, each British coffee house  developed its own partic­ul­ar clientele, literary, political, financial and shipping-related. From the coffee house came the Gentle­man’s Clubs and City instit­utions eg the in­sur­ance mar­ket Lloyds of London. King Charles II tried to close these meeting places down in 1675, but failed. In time, coffee was being consumed at home from silver and por­celain pots. It was usually served black and from long spouted ves­sels. There was also a fashion for taking it in the Turkish manner, with large quant­it­ies of sugar syrup used in the preparation. The short spout meant viscous liquid could flow freely.

de Lamerie
Sugar caster, 1732
Christie's

At a similar time in France, The Edict of Nantes (1598) had granted the Protestant Huguenots the right to practise their religion without persecution in Catholic France. But when these Protestants were finally exiled by King Louis XIV in 1685, they had to find safe homes in other countries. Superb Huguenot gold­­smiths set up business in London where aris­tocratic British patrons flock­ed to them.

Pierre Har­ache
 arrived in 1681 and Simon Pantin worked in Lon­don from 1682. After the 1685 ex­puls­ion, David Willaume & Daniel Garn­ier got papers in 1687, Augustine Courtauld arrived in 1688. John Chartier was in Lon­don by 1688 but didn’t ob­­tain denis­at­ion papers until 1697. Phillip Rollos was in the 1690 den­is­ation list. Louis Mett­ay­er was ap­prent­ic­ed in 1693; Pierre Platel arrived with William III in 1688, but ap­­peared with Louis Cuny in 1697 papers. Jacob & Samuel Margas were apprent­ic­ed 1699, Isaac Liger 1700 & Simon Pantin 1701; then the Arch­ambo and Tan­qu­er­ay families. I researched these beautiful men during a 3 years thesis, and will never forget them.

In their adopted country, the Huguenots rallied around to protect their silver industry. And they showed a sustained pre­ference for marry­ing and app­rent­ic­ing their child­ren into other French fam­il­ies. John Chartier married into the Garnier goldsmith family and his daughter married the goldsmith Peze’ Pilleau; Louis Mettayer’s sis­ter married David Wil­laume and his daught­er married Piere Har­ache; David Tanqueray was Willaume’s ap­pren­tice and later his son-in-law; Simon Pantin was apprent­iced to Piere Harache; Aug­ustine Court­auld was ap­prenticed to Simon Pantin; Edward Feline to Cour­­t­auld; John Le Sage to Louis Cuny; Louis Mett­ayer and Dav­id Tan­qu­er­ay were brothers in law of the engraver Simon Gribelin.

Royal appointments amongst silver artists, both locals and immig­r­ants, were vital. Englishmen George Garth­orne was roy­al Goldsmith to William III and Queen Anne; and Thomas Farren was a Subordinate Goldsmith to the King George I, 1723-42. From the Hug­uenot com­mun­ity, Phillip Rollos I was Subordinate Goldsmith to William III and to Queen Anne; his son Philip Rollos II succeeded as Sub­ord­in­ate Gold­­smith to Queen Anne; and John Le Sage became Sub­ord­inate Gold­smith to the King George.

de Lamerie's cup and cover, 1735
classical Huguenot lines and limited added decoration.
V&A Museum

So who was Paul de Lamerie (1688–1751)? He migrated to London as a small child with his par­ents as refugees. Paul de Lamerie was ap­pren­ticed to Pierre Platel in 1703, becoming free of his master in 1711 and quite young when he became goldsmith to the King from 1716. Paul’s success lay in his classical creativity eg wine cool­er, but also in his ability as a business­man 1730s-50s. A de Lam­erie silver gilt sugar caster, decor­ated with the royal coat of arms, is now at the Wor­shipful Co. of Gold­smiths.

Huguenot silver artists created severely sym­met­ri­c­al Queen Anne or­n­­ament in class­ical taste. It was said that it was not until de Lamerie in­troduced the double scroll handle in 1723 that the gen­eral effect was made much less formal and pond­er­ous. The broken scroll truly did have a softening effect, but it is not true that de Lamerie introduced this element in 1723. A series of cups by Rollos came out in the 1712-15 period, all displaying flam­boyant double harp hand­les cast with bead­ing and foliage, a style repeated by Samuel Marg­is in 1721. Pantin (1713) and Rain­aud (1715) both ut­il­ised more stol­id double harp shaped handles, while de Lamerie favoured the softer double scroll handle in 1720.

Elaborate cast mouldings revealed how de Lamerie, like other gold­smiths, was moving away from the simpler decoration favoured by the earlier Huguenot generation. They moved to the much more ornate Ro­coco style that be­came popular in London during the 1730s and 40s.

de Lamerie’s works have been valued above other Huguenot or English silver artists for a very long time, but I was keen to see the re­s­ults of  a de Lamerie auction. In July 2013 Christ­ie’s London presented a Rococo coffee pot 1738. The silver coffee-pot was creat­ed in the George II era, richly decor­at­ed with char­act­eristic Rococo motifs - bold scroll work, flowers and shells. (27 cm high). The cof­fee pot was commissioned by London-based trader, successful mer­ch­ant and Huguenot, Sir John Lequesne (1687-1741). Lequesne and his wife Mary Knight married in 1738, the very date of the coffee pot. So now the question is: who was Lequesne?

de Lamerie's coffee pot, 1738
curvy rococo lines and rich decorations
auctioned at Christie’s in London in 2013
sold for £3.5 million–£4.5 million.

As a child, Lequesne mov­ed to Britain as a refugee with his brot­her, flee­ing Rouen like many of his fellow Protestants. The Le­ques­ne brothers pros­pered, trading with the West Indies. John became an Alderman of the City, a dir­ect­or of the Bank of Eng­land and was knighted by King George II in 1737. A successful mar­riage, with a HUGE dowry, and an equally successful career enabled him thrive.

The new French Rococo style, the beautifully engraved Lequesne arms and owner­ship by a succ­ess­ful merchant perfectly embodied the vibrant C18th trade in London.


18 comments:

Sotheby's said...

Two Matching George II Silver Baskets, Paul de Lamerie, London, 1737 and 1740. The rims cast with dragons, flowers, and wheat above pierced sides and base rims similarly decorated, the centers engraved with arms surrounded by flat-chased rococo ornament, the fixed handles rising from busts, engraved on undersides with 1871 presentation inscriptions.

Only de Lamerie's wealthiest and most important patrons could afford pairs of baskets, with weights as in this case of over 200 ounces of silver. The closest comparable to this pair are those made also in 1737 for John, 4th Duke of Bedford. It is no exaggeration to say that they are the richest and finest of their type ever to have been created by de Lamerie... the basket is a confection of unsurpassed craftsmanship in the ordering of the complex details of cast, chased, pierced and engraved elements.

Estimate: 80,000 - 120,000 USD
Sotheby's







Joe said...

The French were unbelievably stupid expelling their own Protestant citizens. It was brutal for loyal French citizens who lost their jobs, homes and families. And it was equally bad for the French economy when their best artists and designers went abroad.

Jo-Anne's Ramblings said...

Damn I never knew or even thought of coffee houses being around so long ago 1652 was a bloody long time ago. I don't like coffee can't stand the taste not keen on the smell either. Have to say the sugar caster, cup with cover and the coffee pot are all so damn pretty but would be a bitch to keep clean.

River said...

All beautiful pieces, but I dislike silver simply because of its tendency to tarnish, so the only pieces I have are two teaspoons, the remains of a set of six. Being used fairly often they don't tarnish, but they are silver plated, not solid and the plate is beginning to wear off after fifty three years use.

Hels said...

Sotheby's,

many thanks. The George II silver baskets are beautiful but more intensely decorated than the 1732 sugar caster for example. Made by the same artist, in the same decade and in the same country, but with a very different style.

Hels said...

Joe

it is not the first time a king or parliament has imprisoned/murdered/expelled a substantial minority of their own population. But these Huguenots were proud, honourable and productive Frenchmen. What was King Louis XIV thinking? In 1685 Louis XIV brought in the Edict of Fontainebleau and made Protestantism illegal, so 200,000+ Huguenots fled France. The next year remaining Protestants were rounded up and imprisoned and starved to death.

Hels said...

Jo-Anne

if you were wealthy enough and aristocratic enough to afford these stunning coffee pots, you would have had staff to do all the dirty work in your kitchen, laundry and the rest of the house :)

Hels said...

River

the silver experts said the following:
For _solid silver_ items, use a wadding impregnated with a polish eg Silvo. The material of the wadding is slightly more abrasive than the liquid polish but not so much as to cause any damage. However it is more abrasive than a liquid cleaner so a light touch is all that's required to bring back the original colour. Then use a soft cloth to buff and shine.

With _silver plate_ objects, liquid polishes are extremely gentle, used with a soft cloth.

Student of History said...

Helen I know this is about Huguenots, not about silver art. But I remember our lectures and loved all the Huguenot skills.

Huguenot refugees from Northern France, merchants or weavers back in France, were forced into exile and moved into the heart of the London and Canterbury silk industry. Luckily they were accepted by the Weavers’ Guild. Most of the most famous designers working for the Spitalfields silk industry in the C18th were of Huguenot origin. Even 175 years later there were still 46 silk weaving workshops in Spitalfields.

Hels said...

Student

The Huguenots were truly expert silk weavers, making beautiful dresses, shirts and trimmings.

But then the Huguenots in France must have been talented in most of the professions, arts and crafts they specialised in. Gold and silver smithing, of course, plus textiles, medicine, science and ceramics etc. As long as they could be safe in their Protestantism, they brought their career skills and entrepreneurial talents with them.

DUTA said...

I'm not fond of silver and of silver made items, but the French Huguenots have me intrigued by their many skills in arts, crafts, textiles (silk weavers).

Hels said...

DUTA

The 1 million Huguenots might have only accounted for 10% of the French population before 1685. But they were concentrated in limited regions which they tended to dominate - La Rochelle, Normandy and Poitou; in the south, Montpellier and Nîmes were Huguenot centres. So they had their own schools, churches, guilds, industries etc where each generation could specialise and develop expertise. And I suspect they had very ambitious parents :)

Elegante said...

Awesome Article! I would like to thank you for the efforts you had made for writing this awesome article. This article inspired me to read more.
home automation in hyderabad

hels said...

Elegante
Start by reading the Huguenot Legacy from 1680, by Harrop. You will enjoy the book.

Andrew said...

I have quite strong Huguenot ancestry but as furriers, not jewellers. The coffee pot would certainly be a conversation piece at any table.

Hels said...

Andrew

I had no idea about your link to the Huguenots....you should be proud of those talented members of a very religiously and professionally supportive community.

Today you may have relatives wherever the Huguenots emigrated to Protestant states back then eg Britain of course, but also Netherlands, South Africa, Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Switzerland.

mem said...

My GGGGGGgrandfather on my mums side was a Huguenot who settled in Dublin . He was in the leather business though . It was about as stupid as Brexit , for the French to do this to the Huguenots . They lost so many very skilled people to their enemies the English !!

Hels said...

mem

France's King Louis XIV were indeed counter productive expelling the nation's most skilled, ambitious and loyal citizens but the refugees went anywhere that would take Protestants:

50,000 fled to England, about 10,000 of them moving on to Ireland
45,000 went to Switzerland by the end of the century, especially Geneva.
50,000 French Protestants fled to German States, especially Brandenburg
35,000 Huguenots settled in the Dutch Republic
1000 relocated to and settled at the Cape of Good Hope