The two towers of St Mary’s Basilica
Veit Stoss’ altarpiece
behind the C13th high altar of St. Mary’s Basilica
In summer, umbrella shaded cafés sat along its sides, shaded from the sun by the looming gothic spires of St Mary’s C14th Basilica. The basilica had an imposing façade, flanked by 2 differently sized towers. Its crowning glory is Veit Stoss’ altarpiece. In snowy winter, the square is full of Christmas markets. Visit the square on each hour when St Mary’s Church bugle calls.
At its centre is the long medieval Sukiennice Cloth Hall, Kraków’s historical hub of trade in Eastern Europe. Built in the C14th, this huge hall may have been one of the first shopping centres in the world, packed with market stands. The hall was later rebuilt in a Renaissance style, housing the stalls of local merchants selling cloth products, handicrafts, amber, lace and woodwork like oriental imports.
Sukiennice Cloth Hall
On the eastern side, the coffee shops are crowded with tourists enjoying a front row view of the Cloth Hall’s broadside and 70 m leaning Town Hall Tower. This tower is only remaining section of Kraków’s original C14th town hall, after fires and renovations. Visitors climb the stairs up to the 3rd floor through Gothic vaulted rooms which contain 1960s photos of Kraków and offer a grand panoramic view over the market. The tower is the only part of the former Town Hall that still stands. At the top is an observation deck from which visitors get a beautiful view of Kraków.
The square’s eastern side is home to street entertainers that set up at the foot of the Basilica’s red towers. There is the small C10th Church of St Adalbert to the south, an old stone structure that is one of the few well preserved remaining examples of early Christian, Romanesque buildings in Poland. It is next to the middle Gothic arches of the Cloth Hall.
Krzysztofory Palace
Now Historical Museum of Krakow
Enclosed by elegant townhouses and Medieval palaces, the square is one of the city’s main meeting points for both locals and tourists. It is bustling with life all day long. Apart from its picturesque terraces, the beautiful horse carriages await their next customers.
Directly next to the Sukiennice stands Poland’s most eminent scribe: Adam Mickiewicz, and a huge, striking bronze statue of Polish C19th romantic poet on the square's eastern side. Ironically this much loved bard never visited the city until after his death when his remains were transferred to the Wawel Cathedral crypt, but this didn’t stop the statue from becoming one of Kraków’s best loved monuments.
Citizens used to witness many public events in the square, including royal ceremonies and public executions. Even now grim tourists might enjoy the very grim set of metal neck chains displayed on St Mary’s the side door, used to punish philandering women. But the worst was during German occupation when the square was renamed Adolf Hitler Platz and Nazi rallies attended by Der Führer himself took place.
Kraków’s medieval market square is one of the few places in the city that can chronicle Kraków’s history as concisely; from its medieval origins, through its dark C20th conflicts, to a vibrant modern European city. No wonder its beautiful buildings and history made the square a perfect choice for UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1978.
Citizens used to witness many public events in the square, including royal ceremonies and public executions. Even now grim tourists might enjoy the very grim set of metal neck chains displayed on St Mary’s the side door, used to punish philandering women. But the worst was during German occupation when the square was renamed Adolf Hitler Platz and Nazi rallies attended by Der Führer himself took place.
Kraków’s medieval market square is one of the few places in the city that can chronicle Kraków’s history as concisely; from its medieval origins, through its dark C20th conflicts, to a vibrant modern European city. No wonder its beautiful buildings and history made the square a perfect choice for UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1978.
Goodonya. My parents were Polish but from a small town. Yet they loved Krakow because it was large, with cultural centres and lots of tourists. They loved revisiting the synagogues, even years after they moved to Australia.
ReplyDeleteI would love to visit Sukiennice Cloth Hall where I could spend days photographing this place!
ReplyDeleteHow nice to see a place that hasn't been overwhelmed with modern glass and steel constructions.
ReplyDeleteEuropean squares are wonderful and after reading this, Krakow's must have been among the best, and the oldest.
ReplyDeleteDeb
ReplyDeleteOf course your parents loved the city :) I would have thought that Krakow in general and the central market square in particular would have been extremely attractive for Poles and visitors before the two world wars. But I assumed bombing might have ended the beauty, as in Warsaw. Some of medieval Krakow had to be rebuilt over the centuries of course, but fortunately the city was not razed to the ground by bombs.
roentare
ReplyDeleteSukiennice Cloth Hall is truly extraordinary, from the exterior and inside. You will love even the coffee tables and umbrellas in the square alongside the Hall, especially in summer.
jabblog
ReplyDeleteeven though UNESCO’s World Heritage Listing didn't take place until 1978, the city council knew enough to protect the city's central medieval beauty. There ARE some tall, modern buildings in Krakow, but historical sites around or near the square cannot be destroyed.
Andrew
ReplyDeleteI always loved large European city squares as well, like Museumplein in Amsterdam or Charles Square in Prague. So when Melbourne was getting its city square in the mid 1970s, I was looking forward to having Melbourne look like Prague. What a disappointment :(
Krakow is one of my favourite Christmas markets. It is a beautiful city and I loved all the glasswork.
ReplyDeleteMe encanta el casco antiguo de las ciudades, es donde se ve la parte antigua y que tiene especial encanto.
ReplyDeleteMe ha enantado ver la arquitectura tan importante, que hay en esta ciudad.
Wow, beautiful city and square. Thanks Hels for the photos and information about Krakow! I would love to be there Christmas!!
ReplyDeleteWhat a beautiful place, sadly not a place I will ever get to visit
ReplyDeleteI always love to visit old Market Squares. This one looks beautiful.
ReplyDeleteFun60
ReplyDeleteI normally don't like cold weather, but I agree that Krakow’s Main Square is full of colour, activities and fun leading up to Christmas. It is said that amongst all the Christmas market stalls is the beautiful twin-towered basilica of St Mary’s, adding to the special atmosphere.
Ventana
ReplyDeleteagreed. Of course you are delighted to see such important architecture in Krakow.. the city has carefully preserved its history, to the very good fortune of modern generations. If you are ever going again in Polish summer, drop me a note and we can meet up for coffee in the square :)
Katerina
ReplyDeleteI am still envious :) 2 hours flight from your place to Krakow!
Have an amazing trip if you go this Christmas!
Jo-Anne
ReplyDeletein 1970 I made a long wish-list of places I would visit one day, assuming I could continue flying until insurance ran out at age 85. I was doing very well until heart surgery and covid lockdowns meant flying was dangerous. So I really do understand that not everyone can visit every place they might have thought about.
Cherry
ReplyDeleteLike I said to Katerina, I am so envious of people who can hop around Europe, the Middle East and the Mediterranean easily. Which other market squares have you loved?
You are right about Charles Square in Prague. The architecture is fascinating, starting with the 14th century Gothic Church of Our Lady, and its very tall towers. St Nicholas Church looks much more baroque. The Kinsky palace and town hall look grand. But I don't remember any sociable coffee tables and umbrellas in the centre of the square.
ReplyDeleteJoe
ReplyDeleteI love historical architecture too. But socialising is almost as much fun :) Krakow's eating, drinking and meeting people in the square is wonderful, whether it is privately arranged between friends, or publicly organised with walking tours. One example is a long tasting tour, going to 4 local restaurants to try 11-13 different dishes, plus vodkas and craft beers.
This is one place I would like to see in person if I ever got the chance.
ReplyDeleteRiver
ReplyDeleteabsolutely! The 18 best cities to visit in Eastern Europe, according to World of Wanderlust, include Budapest, Dubrovnik, St Petersburg, Prague, Krakow and Bratislava - all of which I would really like to visit for the first time or visit again.
Very beautiful buildings, the architecture is just amazing. Wouldn't it be good to see in person, but seeing it this way is better not having seen it at all Hels.
ReplyDeleteGood to know more about Poland.
I had a Polish girlfriend in senior school, we were inseparable at that time.
Hi Hels - I used to work with a Polish friend, who'd escaped ... they now live in the States - but back in the day she invited me to visit Poland and Krakow with her - life wasn't easy for me and so I never made it - a regret I have to this day, and to losing track of the family. She and my mother got on really well - and she was able to visit my mother in Cornwall. Memories ... cheers Hilary
ReplyDeleteMargaret
ReplyDeleteMy own family was Russian and my in laws were Czech, but most of the students in my year at school was either born in Poland or born in Australia to Polish parents. Since all the siblings, grandparents, aunts and uncles had been killed during the Holocaust in Poland, none of my friends' parents would ever visit Poland again. Yet by the time I was making travelling decisions by myself, the fear of Polish history had ended. Not only is Krakow really beautiful, but so are Lublin, Gdansk, Poznan and Lodz.
Hilary
ReplyDeleteagreed.. it is important to keep in contact with old friends, even if she lives abroad. With the internet it was relatively easy to me to find old friends in Brazil and South Africa, students I had been very close to back in 1966. Now we swap photos and facebook stories monthly.
Even if the time wasn't good for you, I am very glad she invited you to go to Poland with her.
ReplyDeleteHere are the top 9 things to do in Krakow, Poland in 2024
Nowadays Krakow has become the new trendy hotspot for travelers to visit in Central Europe, and for good reason. Unlike Warsaw, even though Krakow is a big city, being there will make you feel like you are in a warm, closely-knit neighborhood. The charming little district of the Jewish Quarter (Kazimierz), the stunning Wawel Cathedral surrounded by the Vistula River, and the colorful St. Mary's Basilica - there is no shortage of things to see in Krakow
bucketlistly.blog
March 16, 2024
It is a very lovely place partly because it is authentic and not a pastiche of imitation old .
ReplyDeleteModern squares are hard to do because we have such large buildings and we seem , as humans to warm more to buildings of a human scale . I think that the thing that saves modern squares is lots of planting of trees. I think the that Fed Square is pretty good with its beautiful stone paving and its human scale . My husbands family come from the Polish town of Karlisch which also has a really beautiful town square .
Bucketlistly
ReplyDeletelove the blog's name :) Thank you for specifying how Krakow became the trendy tourist destination. I hope people read the details in your post before they travel.
mem
ReplyDeleteI agree that one thing that saves modern squares is planting of plenty of trees, surrounded by fresh air that is unpolluted by cars and buses.
Looking up your husband's family town of Karlisch, the first thing you notice is a stunning town square, surrounded by really lovely historical buildings. Why didn't I hear of this town before?
Its actually a very significant place in Jewish Polish History . When we visited a few years back , we were very moved by the beauty of the place and how the Rapke family must have felt leaving that city and coming all the way to Australia.
ReplyDeleteI've visited Warsaw before but haven't been to other cities in Poland. I'd very much like to - Krakow has always been high on my list and I think you've convinced me with this post!
ReplyDeleteThe inside of St Mary's Basilica looks exquisite.
You mention the grim past of the square. This is actually the reason we've not visited Krakow yet. We want to visit and bear witness to Auschwitz during that trip but need to be ready for that. Soon, I hope.
Mandy
ReplyDeleteas I said to Margaret, my own family was Russian and my in laws were Czech. So I had no personal pull to Poland, and in any case, post-WW2 trips to Poland were avoided wherever possible. But the more I studied architecture, galleries and museums in Eastern Europe as a middle aged student, the more excited I was to travel there.
Even when the cities' memories are a mixture of beauty and grimness, you will truly value your travel. Not Auschwitz, probably.