12 November 2022

Cruise from Avignon, Lyon, Strasbourg, the Rhineland to Amsterdam.

Due to my heart surgery, Covid lockdowns and retirement, I haven't travelled for 4 years. So here is my dream cruise, thanks to Viking.  I know some of these cities very well, but the trip reveals a rich tapestry of diverse cultures and landscapes that I need to plan for.

Day 1 — Avignon France’s narrow streets are lined with medieval build­ings and churches. Avignon was the papal seat for 70 years in the C14th after the sitting pope fled Rome. The massive Got­hic church-fortress Palace of the Popes was centre of the Chr­ist­ian world then. Another notable struct­ure reaches into the Rhône: C12th bridge Pont d’Avignon.

Palace of the Popes Avignon
and Pont d'Avignon

Day 2 — Arles France was the capital of Roman Gaul when the Em­pire end­ed and boasts many Roman ruins. Les Arènes, an an­c­ient amphi­theatre seating 20,000, is used for bull fights. The town att­racts farm­ers from the countryside to the famous Provençal market. And it enjoys a rich artistic heritage eg  Impressionist Vincent van Gogh in Arles.

Day 3 — Back in Avignon France, the church built a wall around the city and provided mansion-like residences to its card­inals. And the gilded statue of Mary atop the cathedral.

Roman Arena, Arles

Day 4 — Sleepy C5th Viviers France be­came a bishop’s seat, and conflicts during the cent­uries required town defences. Some buildings were from the Middle Ages and the Old Town cobb­le­­stone streets were dominated by C12th St Vincent Cath­edral with beautiful windows. A more stable Renaissance encouraged new houses eg Mais­on des Chevaliers.

Day 5 — Tournon France lay secluded between the river and the gr­anite slopes that nurtured fine vintages, with an ancient Celtic castle over the river. The wine-producing region was start­ed by a hermit returning from the Crusades who planted vines, and today the sunshine produces fine whites. On the graceful Rhône River, the locks through which the ship passes help­ed to tame its waters, surrounded by the soaring mount­ains.

Vienne is gateway to Lyon’s countryside. Among its Roman remains, the Temple of Aug­ustus & Livia was C1st. Its Roman amphitheatre, nes­tled in the hills, is very well preserved. And there are fine medieval buildings eg Abbey of Saint Pierre and Church of Saint-André-le-Bas.

Days 6 and 7 — Lyon France straddles the Rhône & Saône Rivers, a maj­or cultural city with outstanding museums. Amid red-roofed build­ings, tree-lined boulevards and riverside walks, old cobble­stone streets host a rich collection of Renaiss­ance archit­ecture & int­im­ate connecting passage ways. It’s all overlooked by the grand basilica atop Fourvière Hill. Lyon, the food capital of Fr­ance, is surrounded by towns that sell excellent fresh produce with light northern Beaujolais or a bold southern Rhône reds.

Day 8 — Located where 3 countries meet, Basel Switzerland reflects a blend of traditions. The city straddles the Rhine at the river’s far­thest navigable point, with a cluster of old-town buildings along the riverbank. Around Market Square, guild houses display Gothic, Renais­sance and baroque splendour, with the red-sandstone Rathaus/Town Hall as the centrepiece. 40+ museums of cul­ture lend modern polish.

Day 9 — Breisach Germany is a gateway to the Black Forest region, built on Rhenish bas­alt rock. It is in one of the warmest parts of Germ­any, across the river from French Alsace, famous for its wine grow­ing and its large cellars. The most prominent local landmark is the Ro­manesque-Gothic St Stephen’s Cathedral (C12th-C13th) with its splendid towers.

Day 10 — Strasbourg France, largest Upper Rhine port at the border of France and Ger­m­any, is the cultural centre of Alsace and boasts a fine mix of cultural influences. The well-preserved Old Town is enclosed on all sides by the little Ill River so explore cobble­stone streets lin­ed with half-timbered houses and intersected by pict­uresque canals. Alsatian café culture is vital.

Day 11Speyer Germany lies on the Rhine’s west bank. The city shows a Romanesque imperial cathedral, burial place of 8 Emperors and Holy Roman Emperors. The term Protestant was created at the Diet of Speyer in 1529, when 14 free cities and 6 Lutheran princes protested the Edict of Worms that had banned “heretic” Martin Luther’s writings.

Rüdesheim Germany's cobble­stone street are lined with tav­erns that pour local wines and fill alleyways with music. Half-timbered houses and old inns retain a medieval flav­our. Cast­les once pro­vided security for the re­gion, including the C9th Bröm­ser­burg Castle, oldest on the Rhine. And the Siegfried’s Mech­anical Music Cab­inet mus­eum houses an impress­ive collection.

Day 12 — Middle Rhine Germany is a scenic UNESCO World Herit­age Site where steep hills require handpicked vineyards. Splendid cast­les line the banks and the Lorelei Rock presides at a dramatic river curve. This river maiden mesmerised sailors with her song and enticed them to die.

Historic Koblenz

Koblenz Germany, 2,000 years old, was a trad­ing settlement rest­ing on Middle Rhine High­lands. Cob­ble­stone streets, wood-beamed houses ad­orned with flow­ers, ancient market square and me­dieval church­es recall old Germany eg Roman­esque Basilica of St Castor is Kobl­enz’s oldest struct­ure (836). The famed Teut­onic Knights set up a base in 1216; also a massive, modern eq­ues­trian statue of Prince William I.

Day 13 — Cologne Germany reveals its Roman heritage in its layout and ruins. Note the city’s C14th cathed­ral, a stunning exam­ple of Gothic art­istry and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Avoiding Al­lied WW2 bombs, the cath­ed­ral’s imposing twin sp­ires are visible for ks and its stained glass windows fill the interior with brill­iant light. And modern cafes.

Day 14 — Sail into the Rhine–Meuse–Scheldt Delta, and see the flat farm­land, tulips, Fr­iesian cows, villages and windmills of Kinderdijk Netherlands. It is a vill­age community in a corner of South Holl­and, a charming hamlet amid low-lying polders, tracts of land reclaimed from the sea by windmills and dikes. Remember the 1865 novel Hans Brink­er (finger in dike)?

Kinderdijk windmills

Day 15 — Charming canals, gabled houses, splendid museums and bicycles make the Dutch capital Amsterdam Holland a delight to explore. Its patchwork of waterways forms c90 islands connect­ed by 1,500 bridges. The C17th Dutch Golden Age lives on in gilded mans­es and in the art of Rembrandt and other Masters that fill the fabulous Rijks­museum.

 




28 comments:

Britta said...

Wow, Helen - I would instantly join into that journey! Many of the French and German locations I know - but there are also a few I do not. Through the pandemic we for some time had to stop traveling (though I managed a few travels to the Netherlands).
But France would be so nice again - for next year I will make a plan what to see next.
I am more interested in Europe now, not as much in far away countries (though the Flying Dutchman is a world traveler, he has visited 49 countries).
Are your destinations a dream, or a memory, or do you plan to do a few?

roentare said...

This itinerary would have been my dream route in western Europe again. What a great info from your post again. You must have been a professor in History of some sort for sure

Andrew said...

Your itinerary sounds excellent. I've seen two of areas on your list, Rudesheim and Cologne. The cabinet musical museum was very entertaining and Cologne is such a vibrant and pleasant city.

Train Man said...

Shame there isn't another day in Switzerland. Happily, Basel is a wonderful multi cultural centre in Switzerland to visit.

Fun60 said...

I never look at cruises for holidays but I do like this itinerary. I have not visited the places mentioned and they all of interest. Is this a cruise you will be doing?

Hels said...

Britta

Joe and I spent 5 years in Europe when we were first married, and had the best ever life.
And over the next 45 years, we tried to get back each year, to catch up with the family (in Israel, UK, Canada and USA) and to visit new countries. Alas old age has caught up with us both and so cruises look much better than driving, flying or trains.

Memories yes... and plans for the next few years as well.

Hels said...

roentare

I lectured on history and art history at a TAFE for many years, but mostly my blog posts depended on travel inspirations. There are approximately 193 countries in the world, and it was my plan to visit most of them and to take photos that I could use later in lectures. It has worked out quiet well, thankfully :)

Hels said...

Andrew

when I looked at the Viking itinerary, I also noticed some places I had visited several times, and other places I had almost never heard of. Amsterdam, Speyer, Cologne and Strasbourg were much loved favourites; Tournon and Vienne were totally outside our knowledge base. Of course my memory is not as good as it used to be, sadly :(

Hels said...

Train Man

correct.. Basel is right on the border of Germany, France and Switzerland! If you can only visit one Swiss city on this cruise, Basel is the right choice. The Old Town is sensational, the Rathaus is worth visiting and the Kunstmuseum is well worth seeing.

I imagine the goal of all cruising companies is to allow visitors to immerse themselves in local culture, music, art, history, food and wine.

Hels said...

Fun60

My beloved spouse will never go on any more ocean cruises again; he was too sick during the only three ships we have been on. But cruising on a shiny flat river should be fine, even for a delicate stomach :) And I love it.

Ships coming into Australia this week have been filled with positive Covid cases, so our next trip definitely won't be before mid 2023 or even later. In the meantime, I will keep reading up of the above-mentioned places of interest.

DUTA said...

Great places! I've been to some of them (Amsterdam, Basel, Koln).
I must confess, however, that the Covid threat has put an end to my aspirations of travelling.
It has to do, of course, with age too. I feel, at my age, I should be closer to home and myself. Travelling won't make things easier, so why bother? I've had my fair share of culture in life.

Hels said...

DUTA

Yes! It is totally understandable that older people are 1] more vulnerable to infectious diseases and 2] need their familiar home environment more than young people. Even more so, after retirement.

But my son and his family live overseas, as does Joe's brother and his family. So I have to somehow find the energy to travel. The cruise offers bedrooms, meals, wine and organised travel at each port :) And the Avignon papacy was one of my favourite eras in European history!

Rachel Phillips said...

I once spent a week in Basel. It certainly was a great place to chose for a week, carefully selected by me. We travelled from England on Eurostar and then took the train down to Basel. It was one of our best trips, my partner even went with me. I had a client from Germany at the time, living in England, and when I told her I was going to Basel she said I was crazy. I then worried perhaps I had made a mistake. However it had everything, river, trams, great rail links to the rest of Switzerland, and plenty of splendid buildings and art, which is what I most wanted. I had been interested in visiting Basel for many years. The food was also splendid. That Viking cruise has lots of interesting places, many of which I have visited. I hope you get to travel again.

Hels said...

Rachel

The Viking cruise was just one example of what was on offer, but I leapt to it because of the number of days (15) and because the cities it goes to suited me beautifully. And I agree with you that Basel is gorgeous and so is Cologne.

Viking also advises its clients to spend an extra day or two in the first city (Avignon) and the last city (Amsterdam), even though it will be at the clients' own cost. Amsterdam is so amazing, I would do that in a heartbeat.

Dabas said...

Nice!
I am afraid of cruises. Either I feel guilty for eating too much, or I feel guilty for not eating and missing the goodies!
Been to a few of the places. At Arles we stayed with a Servas host that lived across the street from the Amphitheater. By mistake she had double booked and after we arrived a NZ couple came riding on their bikes. Of course we agreed on them being allowed to stay too!
Avignon’s bridge is famous for the song: “Sur le pont de Avignon…”. Interestingly, the bridge leads to nowhere nowadays, as it kept getting damaged every time the Rhône flooded!

Hels said...

Dabas

Arles is great. The Ampitheatre, Cloister and Abbey are special, but the Secret Garden with links to van Gogh is extra wonderful, as is the Fondation Vincent Van Gogh.

By the way, staying with a Servas host who lived across the street from the Amphitheater was a clever decision :)

Viking Rhine River cruise review said...

This is a review of the Viking ship as it sailed down the Rhine in summer 2022. Of the various Rhine River cruise itineraries, this one spanned 4 countries: Switzerland, Germany, France and the Netherlands, from Basel to Amsterdam.

If you’re considering booking this cruise for yourself, ask what is the Rhine River actually like between Basel and Amsterdam? It seemed to have three distinct sections. From Basel until Speyer, the Upper Rhine feels very industrial. It’s lined by factories, so the river is not amazing here, although the cities along it are. Luckily the boat sailed at night through the Upper Rhine. From Speyer to Cologne, the Middle Rhine is incredibly scenic. Viking did a great job of scheduling so that passengers could enjoy the view from the boat in the day in the Middle Rhine. The vineyards, villages and castles here are the river’s most unique offerings. In the Netherlands, the Lower Rhine has a rural vibe. We passed cows cooling off in the shallow riverbanks, small Dutch villages and not much else until approaching Amsterdam.

The most noteworthy thing about this cruise ship is its capacity: only 200 passengers. There are 4 levels, and each room has a window. The ship has one single dining room that can accommodate all passengers together, indoor lounge, terrace, plus an open-air deck on top that runs the length of the ship. The meals onboard were consistently amazing! Coming back on board after each tour was to enjoy whatever was being served that day. What’s more, Viking offered specialties from each region we were passing through. Or you could always eat at local restaurants while you’re exploring the cities along the Rhine. Not being a massive vessel, it didn’t have all of the amenities that some other cruise ships might - no pool, casino or nightclub. And there were no children’s amenities. But there were lots of fun optional activities onboard the ship eg game nights, musical performances or glass¬blowing demonstration.

At every port of call, Viking offered one free shore excursion i.e walking tours that lasted 2 hours and introduced guests to the various cities. These tours were pretty good. However, if you’d rather explore a town on your own, you can. Was the cruise perfect? No I really would’ve preferred a little more time in fewer stops eg I’d say either choose Speyer or Rüdesheim am Rhein, and spend the entire day there.

Share this post with fellow travellers!
Kevin from Seattle

hels said...

Kevin
most people keep their reviews a bit quiet so I was very pleased to read your experiences on the Rhine River Cruise. Many thanks

Hilary Melton-Butcher said...

Hi Hels - it'd be great to do this cruise ... I've friends who've ventured out to the Danube for a cruise ... but this sounds wonderful ... oh yes some other friends went over from here to the Seine and on to Caen - they thoroughly enjoyed the smaller wander through the French countryside. The positive is - we've done our fair share of travelling ... though I must say I've never done a cruise - it's never appealed, for whatever reason! Cheers Hilary

Hels said...

Hilary

Next year, hopefully :)

The advantages of cruising down the Rhine, over driving or going on a train near the Rhine, are many. Cruising is more scenic, more relaxed, better serviced for meals and wine, more sociable and more organised for shore excursions. However cruises can be expensive and they can cause nausea in people with sensitive stomachs.

"A smaller wander through the French countryside" is perfect for anyone already living in Europe. For those coming from Australia or other distant countries, the return air fare would make the trip exorbitant.

mem said...

shall really look forward to your thoughts after you do this trip . I have cousins who live in Cologne and I have to alert you to he best coffee shop I have been in EVER which is opposite the cathedral and has the most amazing kitsch décor and the most AMAZING selection of cakes .It is call Cafe Reichard and is at Unter Fettenhenner11. Truly amazing , you may also get a guy playing a white grand piano if you are lucky :)
I would love to start a European holiday doing this . Just to unwind and relax and then head to Italy or maybe the UK . Maybe we will in the next year or two . I do wonder though whether I would feel "captive" on a cruise ship??

bazza said...

I didn't know that you had recent heart surgery but I'm pleased that you are well enough to travel. This looks like a fabulous itinerary and, friends have told me, Viking Cruises have a wonderful reputation.
Since Covid, even our frequent day-trips to France have ceased.😒
CLICK HERE for Bazza’s strictly strident Blog ‘To Discover Ice’

Hels said...

mem

I have long loved Cologne and will love it even more when I visit the best coffee shop ever. Of course it is opposite the cathedral .. where else :) Your European holiday can take as long as you have available... as long as you don't have any babies at home or full time job that needs your complete attention. 4 weeks every June-July used to suit me perfectly, but I haven't even left Melbourne since before Covid.

A cruise ship on a European river stops each day at a port, so you get plenty of space and exercise. But if you were going from Melbourne to Vancouver, an ocean-going ship might become a bit restrictive.

Hels said...

bazza

my mum was elderly but fun filled and largely healthy (except for white blood cells). A relative by marriage turned up to mum's doctor who updated us regularly and was doing a great job. The relative asked the doctor to "put mum down", to give the money to young people who deserved the scarce medical resources more. Mum's doctor, rabbi and care home staff did everything they could to save her, but she died unexpectedly 4 weeks later. I knew I had a heart problem straight away, but for 12 months I pushed on with mum's funeral and shivas, then dad's funeral and shivas, shloshim and stone laying. Only then, did I go into hospital to have heart surgery.

Years later, PTSD, blood pressure, anxiety and memory loss remain. A slow holiday can only but help.

CherryPie said...

Your choice sounds interesting with a lot of fun. I hope you manage to realise your dream cruise :-)

Hels said...

CherryPie

three days _after_ this post appeared, a new (to me) cruise line appeared in the weekend travel guide. "Romance On The Riviera, 11 days from Barcelona to Monte Carlo. Go beyond the glamour to discover walled hill towns and family-run wineries, stroll pretty promenades and fields awash in lavender, and wander UNESCO World Heritage-designated villages where candy-coloured villas stagger down the steep, rugged cliffs".

I love Barcelona, so although I could not afford the ship's price, it reminded me that there are so many cruising pleasures on offer.

Mandy said...

This looks like a perfect itinerary. I hope you get to travel again soo

Hels said...

Mandy

the first ship cruise Joe and I went on was on the Mediterranean, starting in Haifa and moving westward. We were so tight for money back in those days that I slept in bunk beds with 5 other women in the cabin, and Joe slept on the deck in a deck chair. Now we can afford to travel in decent style, pandemics allowing, and we can choose our own itinerary :)