07 July 2026

Chaim Soutine, great artist but disturbed?

Portrait of a Young Woman, 1915
Wiki
Pastry Cook of Cagnes, 1922 
The Guardian

Grotesque self portrait, c1923
Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris.

Thank you to George Prochnik for this review. From 1913, to get from Smilovichi, a shtetl in present-day Belarus, to Paris, 20 year old artist Chaim Soutine (1893-1943) made many visits to the Louvre to study the canvas. In the mid-1920s he decided to translate it into his own idiom: a huge impasto, churning with deep, febrile colours. Where Rembrandt’s hanging carcass is mottled with pale tones once the blood has drained away, Soutine’s reds appear to be fermenting. It’s not a picture of mortality! Interpreters of Rembrandt’s ox often place it in a memento mori, but Soutine’s picture convulses with what is happening right now.

Soutine insisted that he could only depict a subject if he had it in front of him, and various accounts of how he managed this with a huge quarter-side of beef came down to us. In her passionate biography, Celeste Marcus shares the most lurid. After hauling the carcass from the slaughterhouse to his studio in darkness, Soutine set to work painting it, but after a few days it began to go green and give off a terrible stench. He returned to the abattoir to get a bucket of blood so that he could keep the colours vibrant. But the blood dripped through the floorboards into the apartment below. The street was aghast. The official sanitation squad paid him a visit to shut down the project, but Soutine’s assistant prevailed on them to let him finish the work, whereupon they relented and showed him how to inject the meat with ammonia to preserve it. Soutine was also busy painting dead ducks, turkeys and chickens! The smaller bodies still stank making him a troublesome neighbour, but Soutine’s devotion to his work kept complaints to a minimum. 

Much death went into making Soutine’s art. Yet it is Marcus’ argument that everything Soutine does on the canvas should be understood as part of the artist’s pursuit of life. His canvases bear witness to his epic struggle for self-mastery, discipline and skill to communicate satisfactorily the energy of life itself. Plus many of his landscapes appear deliquescent, while the figures and faces of his human subjects are contortions. He shows us scenes in which our perspectives on life and painting have become unstuck, inverting his subject matter inside out. 

In an important 1963 essay on Soutine, critic David Sylvester noted the painter’s debt to Cézanne. Sylvester describes how Soutine’s endeavour recalls Cézanne’s determination to take hold of volume in its full tactile reality and beat it, as it were, into the picture-plane. Both artists aspired to re-create – which meant capturing the swing between broad, organic continuity and individual ephemerality. 

Marcus recognises the pitfalls of writing a biography about an artist who made so few personal statements, and for an understanding of whose formative experiences we are forced to rely on sketchy anecdotes supplied by those who knew the painter – or had heard the stories first-hand. She makes good use of this material, however, especially in her account of how Soutine left behind his constricted youth in an orthodox eastern European Jewish village for bohemian Paris. Here he lived a destitute, industrious, essentially monastic life for many years, despite soon earning the esteem of his peers in Montparnasse, among them Modigliani

Then c1922 collector Albert Barnes encountered Soutine’s work, seized on the artist as a star-in-waiting and bought 50+ paintings in one go, liberating Soutine from the struggle for survival, until the rise of Fascism stripped his life of all security once more. Soutine spent his last years moving from flat to flat, trying to keep out of sight. He relentlessly worked, but his health deteriorated. Medical care for the stomach problems that probably began with youthful malnutrition became more challenging under the new political realities, leaving him more vulnerable until, in 1943, he died of a perforated ulcer.

Marcus fills out this chronicle with mini-biographies of some of Soutine’s intimates, including Gerda Michaelis, the German-Jewish refugee who in 1937 became Soutine’s partner and one serious love affair. Conceptually however the author honours the position articulated by Hilton Kramer, that the painter had no biography outside his art; one might even say that his art was a substitute for a biography. She scoffs at those who insist he left no traces: he is there, right before our eyes. The man was his art, and his paintings bellow from the walls on which they hang. This is a legitimate position to take, but it is somewhat surprising to confront the confidence with which Marcus pronounces on what this bellowing is communicating.

Plucked Goose c1933,
Artists Rights Society, New York

 Carcass of Beef, 1924
The New Yorker

Marcus wants to rescue Soutine from critics who ascribe his work's emotional content  to traumatic Jewish experience. To consider this view of his art, she takes a formalist approach making Soutine’s evolution an almost exclusively interior, technical development. Marcus has enlightening things to say about the increasing strength of Soutine’s style, some informed by her own practice as a painter. Yet it’s unclear what is gained by trying to draw so strict a line between the historical & personal. World horrors can penetrate even the most focused creative consciousness. Nor did Soutine try to keep his head down as evidence for Hitler’s designs on Europe mounted.

The firewall Marcus puts up between Soutine’s subjection to history and his creative genius leads her to minimise the ways in which his first 20 years might have shaped his sensibility. There are conflicting ideas about how miserable Soutine was in the shtetl. He seems to have found the country beautiful and the markets lively, but he suffered poverty & physical abuse. Some versions of his story indicate that he was beaten by his brothers, perhaps for making art, and received at least one significant beating from others for painting an old man in the community, although accounts differ about whether a violation of Jewish law was the issue. Once he departed from the Pale of Settlement there is no outward indication that Soutine ever looked back. But the experience ?continued to gnaw at him.

Given the bias against visual culture within Orthodox Judaism, it is perfectly plausible to view his art as a reaction against it.  Many of his paintings do seem to demand that we look when others turn away – and to stare hard.  Soutine said When I painted the beef carcass it was still this cry that I wanted to liberate. I have still not succeeded. Francis Bacon, who acknowledged the fertile shock produced by his encounter with Soutine’s work, and whose homage to Rembrandt’s ox seems more indebted to Soutine than to the Old Master, made the screaming mouth a leitmotif, even in the absence of a visual cue.

John Ashbery found Soutine’s MOMA show in 1950 a heady revelation that increased his sense of possibility as a writer: the fact that the sky could come crashing joyously into the grass, that trees could dance upside down and houses roll over like cats … I began pushing my own poems around. It’s a topsy-turvy scene but there is danger pulsing beneath that fallen sky. Writer Maurice Sachs, who met Soutine some times in the early 1930s, said he painted in a state of lyrical panic. He slashed his canvases and destroyed them when he felt they'd failed. Surely he was addressing a dilemma with historical and political dimensions; what Freud described as the perpetual agon between humanity’s life and death drives. Freud saw the future of civilisation as dependent on the life urge prevailing, but already by 1930 the prospects of that outcome were dwindling. Chaim Soutine’s died in 1943.

Good looking and young, even towards the end of his life
wiki

I Helen know that there was never a formal diagnosis from a psychiatrist to suggest the Expressionist painter Soutine was psychotic, even though his turbulent life and distorted paintings strongly suggested his mental state wasn't normal. If anything Soutine was a painter of his own obsessions, probably due to family rejection, exile, extreme poverty, physical illness and Nazi terror. I am on Hilton Kramer's side: Soutine's life was a harrowing tale of impossible aspirations,  unappeasable emotions and impossible appetites, not handled except perhaps through Expressionism.



05 July 2026

recent art thefts: Italian Villa Masterpieces

The theft discussed here was the latest in a series of robberies targeting major European museums, soon after a series of other high-profile heists. “Poppy Flowers” by Vincent van Gogh, stolen from Cairo's Khalil Museum in 2010, was never found. Neither was “Soldier on Horseback” by Anthony van Dyck, stolen from University of Oxford in 2020. The shameless day-light robbery of precious jewels from the Louvre in Paris in Oct 2025 was worth $102 mill. The Louvre had been the latest to be subject to a heist. The thieves in this robbery forced their way through the main Museum door, grabbing the art from the French Room on the building's first floor. The criminals escaped by climbing over a fence, according to public broadcaster TGR, which first reported the theft. They believed a structured and organised gang was responsible for the theft.

The Villa of Masterpieces is home to the Magnani-Rocca Foundation, one of the most important art institutions in Europe and one of the most active museums for its cultural programmes. The villa was surrounded by the Romantic Park, a large English garden displaying exotic plants, monumental trees and magnificent peacocks.
Magnani-Rocca Foundation near Parma, Nth Italy
Artnet News

The Foundation was created in 1977 by art historian Luigi Magnani (1906–1984) whose special collection featured works by Gentile da Fabriano, Monet, Renoir, Goya, Titian, Dürer, De Chirico, Rubens, Van Dyck, Filippo Lippi, Carpaccio, Burri, De Pisis, Tiepolo, Canova, Cézanne and a large collection of Giorgio Morandi. And sculptures by Canova & Bartolini. The star painting, The Family of the Infant Don Luis by Goya was the emblem of this very fine collection.

Inside the villa, the old placement of furnishings was kept to maintain a lived-in home feel. Visitors can admire precious Empire-style furniture and objects, classy charm coming from its neo-classical and Empire-style furnishings by Jacob. Impressive also was Thomire’s large malachite cup, a gift from Tsar Alexander I to Napoleon. The restoration & transformation of the villa into a museum used most advanced standards set by the Italian Cultural Heritage & Landscape Code. This was to ensure the preservation of works and to suit hosting high-quality visiting exhibitions.

4 masked men entered Magnani Rocca Foundation Villa, near Parma in N. Italy, and made off with artworks in Mar 2026. They stole Renoir, Cézanne and Matisse paintings:

1.Fish by Pierre-Auguste Renoir, 1913
2.Still Life with Cherries by Paul Cézanne, c1886 and
3.Odalisque on the Terrace by Henri Matisse, 1885

Fish, by Pierre-Auguste Renoir
news.sky

Odalisque on the terrace, by Henri Matisse
mirror.co

`
Still Life With Cherries, by Paul Cezanne
news.sky

The theft took place within 3 minutes at night worth c£7.8m. The thieves forced open the entrance door to get into a room on the first floor before escaping across the museum gardens. The criminal operation seemed well organised,  entering the villa at the night, and disguised themselves even more by wearing hoods and masks. Media reports noted the gang quickly carried out the operation because they were interrupted by the museum's alarm system. They had apparently planned to steal more than just 3 works but had not been able to go any further due to the surveillance system (both in the museum and in the neighbouring facilities) and the rapid intervention of police and security officers.  So they had grabbed the 3 paintings, forced open the door and ran across the lawn.

Villa of Masterpieces, Van Dyck Room. 
kreativehouse.it

Villa of Masterpieces, Goya Room
kreativehouse.it

What will happen to Renoir, Cézanne and Matisse? I hope they will be found because The Carabinieri Cultural Heritage Protection Unit, a famous elite squad specialising in art theft, is actively inspecting. As is the Cultural Heritage Protection Unit of Bologna. So it may depend on whether the thieves sold the paintings onto Italian auction houses, smuggled them to the USA, burned the works so searchers would find only embers, or left the paintings in their wills to their grandchildren. 

Italian news agency ANSA posted pictures of the stolen works on line, to alert anyone who might see the stolen art, so perhaps the auction houses will be cautious. Despite being investigated by Italy’s Carabinieri and the Cultural Heritage Protection Unit of Bologna, nothing has been found yet. If I, Helen, was stealing a painting for my home (i.e not to sell), I would not have taken Matisse’s. Rather, I'd have preferred a Van Dyck. Enjoy finestresullarte and BBC.
 


03 July 2026

a dream city for tourists: Palermo



























































 









A 2023 survey by Travel + Leisure invited readers to vote on the world’s most beautiful cities. Clearly the answer differed for everyone, but see their non-exhaustive list of the world’s 25 most beautiful cities. I chose Palermo.

transport from Southern Italy to Sicily

On Sicily's Nth coast the sunny city is a dream for archit­ect­ure fans, right on the Mediterranean's cross roads. Palermo shows a striking mix of architectural styles, after centuries of conquest & differing cultural influences, a rich history of local civilisations. It changed from a Carthaginian stronghold to a Roman province, reaching its cultural peak in Arab rule (831–1072) and then Christian Norman conquerors, creating the unique Arab-Norman architectural style seen now.

Palermo has many fine museums, Sicily's Regional Gallery being housed in a stunning C15th Gothic-Catalan palace and containing iconic works of medieval and Renaissance art. Separately Palermo noted that a Goddess Artemis fragment be­l­ong­­ing to the Parthenon’s east­ern frieze on loan from Sic­ily’s Archaeol­og­ical Museum will remain in Ath­ens. And the Vatican will return Marble fragments from the Vatican Museums, with papal donations

Royal Norman Palace of the Kings of Sicily created in C12th, had the beautiful Palatine Chapel in its 2nd floor. Inside the chapel is decorated with beautiful golden mosaics, and the ceiling is very different from any other Christian church. Carved wood in an Islamic style. Tickets to the Norman Palace include entry to Palatine Chapel, Royal Apartments, Royal Gardens and special exhibitions. 

Palermo Cathedral, built 1185, was built on a Byzantine Church. See the architectural styles that reflect the long history of additions & renovations to the cathedral. In a chapel, right of the altar, lies St Rosalie, patron saint of Palermo. And see the tomb of Blessed Father Puglisi, Mafia-killed. Entry to the cathedral is free except for a visit to the rooftop for great views over the city and to the royal tombs.

The Arab-Norman architectural style features unique blends of Islamic domes & Byzantine mosaics. Palace of the Normans is a striking gold-stone example of the Arab-Norman style and home to Sicily's regional parliament,  a C9th palace representing one of Europe's most ancient royal residences. And the Palatine Chapel, completed in 1142 is one of Europe's great artistic treasures with stunning Byzantine mosaics covering the walls and ceiling.

Built from 1875-97, Teatro Massimo is the largest Opera House in Italy and 3rd largest and most celebrated after Paris & Vienna Operas. Tea­t­ro Mass­imo’s copper dome is c250’ over the piazza bel­ow. From the roof­top, see the city’s terracotta skyline in the early evening.

Quattro Canti Square/Piazza Vigliena is the centre of Palermo’s historic quarter, lined with 4 Baroque buildings. Tourists can see beautiful opera performances in the square, a famous Baroque intersection that beautifully divides the historic city into 4 distinct quarters. It is an architectural marvel of squares, with baroque beauty & intricate details. Each corner is a masterpiece, with the baroque statues representing the Four Seasons. 

C16th nude sculptures at the Piazza Pretoria
 
Near Quattro Canti is Praetorian Fountain, built in Florence in C16th. When the owner lost money, he sold the fountain to the City. The fountain was broken into hundreds of pieces and shipped to Palermo to be reassembled. Because of the totally nude statues, and a convent looking out onto the fountain, it was called the Square of Shame. 

teatro massimo

Norman Palace

Palatine Chapel

Porta Nuova/New Gate next to the Norman palace was built when Holy Roman Emperor Charles V came to the Kingdom of Sicily in 1536 and crossed the arched entrance to Palermo. To honour the event, New Gate was completed in 1584, later destroyed by fire and then rebuilt more elaborately by the City Senate as the triumphal arched gateway leading to the oldest street, Cassaro.

Porta Nuova 

Like Rome's Church of the Capuchin Monks, where there are bodies & bones arranged into art, the Capuchin Catacombs in Palermo opened 1599, to avoid throwing all the dead brothers into a mass grave. Originally only Capuchin friars were entombed in the catacombs, but in C17th & 18ths, it was a way for people to show their wealth and power. There are 2000+ mummified bodies in the catacombs now, dating to C16th-early C20th. Men were embalmed and put on display in their clothes, remarkably well preserved, as are their intact hair and skin. There's NO photography in this eerie historical site. 

Capuchin catacombs
The World of Sicily

Ballaro Market is the one of the oldest street-markets in Italy & Palermo’s largest. Fish, meat, fruit & vegetables are available, complete with plenty of street food stalls. Loud and crowded, the stall holders can be very vocal advertising their produce and the atmosphere in the passionate street-life surrounds its historical outdoor markets like Arabic souks. il Capo Market is smaller and quieter than Ballaro, primarily a fish market and also has plenty of street foodstalls. The best time to visit is in the morning since many stalls close after lunch. la Vucciria Market Square in Sicilian means chaos, an apt description for this small square with its fish restaurants and food trucks. 

Gorgeous coffee shops in the small lanes

A train runs from Naples to Sicily then drives onto the ferry, by day or on overnight sleepers. Or fly to Falcone-Borsellino Airport from several European cities or get a connecting flight via Rome. If driving to Sicily by car, vehicle ferries travel from different mainland ports to Messina, Sicily’s primary transit hub.

Summer is peak season but winter is the best time to visit when the mild weather is great for walking around the city. All the attractions are open, and there are smaller crowds! The only issue might be the fewer daylight hours in winter. Near the Norman Palace, relax in the Gardens of the Villa Bonnano with palms and citrus trees, offering relief from the city’s action. And Mondello Beach is just a short distance from the city centre, an iconic coastline with pure water and stunning Mediterranean views. Although Palermo was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015, and since I've only spent one day there, I gratefully thank Nigel and Sue Adventures.


30 June 2026

Flying Scotsman’s history & dreamy suites

I have travelled the vast widths of Australia and Canada by very comfortable trains, and long parts of France and India by comfortable trains. But never on The Flying Scotsman, which was the world's most famous train service.

In 1860, 3 companies established the East Coast Joint Stock for services using common trains, and it is from this agreement that the Flying Scotsman arrived. After WW1 the British government grouped the surviving rail companies into 4 regions. London North Eastern Railway-LNER arrived with the creation of the Big Four new railway companies. They were divided geographically,  due to over-lapping land and routes - LNER largely served the eastern side of the UK from London up to Scotland, but it competed with the London Midland & Scottish Railway which served the west coast route. They in turn were competing with the other regions to encourage passengers to use their services; each promoted their distinct style and region. The Flying Scotsman holds the record for hauling the first nonstop London-Edinburgh service in 1928. It was the first locomotive to reach 100mph in 1934 and the first steam engine to travel globally, to a U.S World Exhibition and Australia on the container ship NZ Pacific.                                                                            
Grand bagpipe welcome to the train

The Flying Scotsman is one of the Pacific type express tender locomotives built in Doncaster from designs by Sir Nigel Gresley, LNER’s head mechanical engineer. They were the most powerful steam locomotives used by the LNER railway on the fastest and heaviest express passenger trains between London and Edinburgh.

In 1924 it was selected for the British Empire Exhibition in London. It was one of 12 Pacific type locomotives in service on the east coast main line that year, with another 40 awaiting delivery.

The new locomotive was built in 1930 and called the Royal Scot in time for it to tour the USA in 1933. It was built for the London Midland and Scottish Railway to compete against the LNER Flying Scotsman. The difference was that the Royal Scot ran along the West Coast Main Line, while Flying Scotsman ran along the East Coast Main Line.

By WW1 railway posters crammed as much information about a railway service and its destination as possible. Posters were full of text, and the results were seen as quite unintelligible at a distance. Then LNER appointed its first Advertising Manager in 1923, and a month after the Co. was formed, they introduced a poster advertising campaign. Soon all the railway Cos were employing the best contemporary artists to create striking new works each year.

Travel through the Scottish Highlands
 
Both the Royal Scot and Flying Scotsman embodied the height of steam railway engineering then. They were the flagship locomotives for their railway companies. Thus they were the stars of their advertising campaigns, which took the form of large posters. Timing was every! Art Deco railway art was a serious field of commercial art & design that launched in the 1920s and peaked in the 1930s. The railways saw art and design embrace industry for the first time in a very modern style. Art Deco was obsessed with travel, speed and new forms of transport that saw land, air and water speed records being broken regularly. Aptly, artists sought to convey luxury, movement and speed in the new style.

Typically railway poster art focused on pleasant images of destinations. Sunny resorts, beaches, golf courses, quaint towns & rural scenes, were their favourites. But the railway companies were always keeping an eye on their competitors, trying to create impact with their designs, which the new Art Deco style achieved. In 1929 the Public Relations & Advertising Officer for Southern Railways prepared the Take me by the Flying Scotsman poster, a classic then.

The Royal Scot Euston to Glasgow & Edinburgh poster was created by artist P Irwin Brown for rival company LMS in 1931. It depicted the locomotive head-on, racing towards the viewer. The palette was limited to white, grey and black, with vivid red & yellow highlights. The block art deco lettering of the title combined with the colours make for bold, eye-catching graphic design. It is an image of power and modernity through industry and engineering.

The National Museums Scotland has fine examples of art depicting 2 of the most famous locomotives from Steam’s Golden Age. #1 is the original art work for London North Eastern Railway/LNER’s advertising campaign from mid 1932, Take me by the Flying Scotsman, by artist A R Thomson. #2 is an enormous billboard poster for the Royal Scot. Thomson created new works focusing on the scale of the black shiny Flying Scotsman locomotive.

They wanted to show speed conveyed in the Art Deco style, very different from traditionally showed pleasant images of the holiday destination. Now the goal was to show the experience of train travel itself! Despite its artistic merits, when the poster was displayed on station platforms it was not as popular with the public as Southern Railway’s design.

Facilities Being greeted by an official bagpipe player was a signature tradition for the Royal Scotsman. Guests were typically piped onto the train by a kilted Pipe Major, especially while departing from Edinburgh, and offered champagne once they were in one of the lounges.

 double bed and separate living room in Grand Suite

Ensuite bathroom and cupboards in Grand Suite

The 4 Grand Suites were expanded & renovated in 2024, elegant and very expensive. They feature a large fixed double bed, complete ensuite bathroom, 2 wardrobes, living space with a table, sofa and two chairs, opening windows and a service call-button. Most people sleep very well, as the train remains in quiet sidings at night. And guests receive luxurious perks eg private dining if requested, and private arrival and departure transfers to the train station. With the addition of the Bamford Haybarn spa car, the train stands out even more. The 9 twin-bedded cabins and 5 double-bedded cabins are on the same luxury level as the grand suites. 

Formal dinner tables
Royal Scotsman
 
With the small venue and few passengers, Belmond Royal Scotsman is great for those wanting for a more intimate, luxury setting with gourmet dining. Welcome-aboard champagnes are offered and sparkling mimosas. Two-course lunches, 6-course dinners and selected wines are served in elegant mahogany clad dining cars. Lounges feature comfortable, plush interiors, and coffees and afternoon teas are served during the journey. Features can include customised off-train excursions eg private visits to estates.

Observation car
Vogue

In 2004, the train was purchased by the National Railway Museum, and restored to working order in 10 years, costing £4.2 million.