24 October 2026

Odessa: cultural architecture protected

Venice’s Teatro San Cassiano became the world's first public opera house in 1637. Soon, in the C17th & C18th, Central European opera houses had to be financed by rulers, nobles and wealthy people who used patronage of the arts for their own grand reputation. So the Russian Opera House in Odessa must have been a wonderful sight in Russia. Officially it was said to be at the intersection of history because it’s between Tchaikovsky Lane and Langeron St, while facing Richelieu St and de Ribas St. Each personality contributed to Odessa’s development. The first opera house, which opened in 1810, burned down in 1873 and reopened in 1887, was in Vienna Baroque style, an immediate city landmark. Performances included opera, ballet and concerts.

Opera House front

Opera House, National Academic Theatre

The National Academic Opera-Ballet Theatre was built in 1884-7 by Viennese architects Ferdinand Fellner & Hermann Helmer. The grand Viennese Baroque style was the first one built in Novorossiysk Port on the Black Sea where electric lighting and central heating were used.

What famous people were associated with the Odessa’s Opera House area? Count Louis Alexandre Andrault de Langeron (1763-1831) was born into a noble Parisian family. He was one of many French émigrés in Russian service, having his first war experience in the America’s War of Independence. He then served at Caracas and Saint Domingo in 1782-3, before being promoted in the French army to Colonel of the Armagnac Regiment in 1788. Langeron joined the Russian Army besieging the Ottoman Fortress of Izmail in 1790. He was awarded a Golden Sword for Courage, and he remained in the Russ-ian service for life. 

Armand du Plessis, 5th Duke of Richelieu (1766-1822) was born in Paris, a royalist who enlisted in the Kingdom of France’s army after the start of the French Revolution (1789). de Richelieu entered the Queen Marie Antoinette's Regiment of Dragoons in the storming of the Versailles Palace (1789). He became an officer of the Russian Imperial Army, and a Duke upon the death of his father in 1791.  He had a deep knowledge of economics and diplomacy, and promoted the role of trade for the nation's wel-fare. Under his regime, the discount bank, exchange, insurance company, customs district, commercial court & quarantine facility proudly grew. [The Duc's father had been a representative of the Kingdom of Spain to the Kingdom of Naples until 1816 and then an officer in the Russian Imperial Army 1772].

This may have helped him get appointed Governor of Odessa (1803-14). In Richelieu's governorship, he received royal permission to establish locally funded educational institutions in Odessa. de Richelieu's greatest claim to fame was establishing the  Richelieu Lyceum in Odessa in 1817, located on the corner of modern Langeron and de Ribas Sts.  Richelieu was supported by the newly created Ministry of Education (1802) and the National Educational Statutes (1803). In 1804 2 educational institutions were founded as Richelieu Lyceum in 1817, was a private institution of learning where the students were drawn primarily from the aristocracy and wealthy merchant families. Richelieu Lyceum became an institution of higher education and basis for today’s Odessa National Uni. 

French was the only academic language until 1820, when Russian lecturers joined the Lyceum and taught in Russian. Duc de Richelieu was the Governor of Odessa (1803-14), dying from cholera in 1831, and buried in Odessa’s Catholic Cathedral of the Blessed Virgin. 

He returned to France as a peer in the Bourbon Restoration (1814-30). Odessa became part of Ukraine in 1920 when the Red Army integrated it into the Ukrainian SSR in the Soviet Union. And the Odessa Opera House was encircled by historically significant sites. The Auditorium was decorated in the playful late French Rococo. The ceiling, painted by Franz Leffler & restored by Mikhail Zandin after 1925 fire, was divided into 4 segments: medallions from Shakespeare's Hamlet, Midsummer Night's Dream, Winter's Tale and Twelfth Night. In the centre the large chandelier was beautiful.

The Opera House in Odessa endorsed their political, educational and cultural ambition, and social position. Walk down Richelieu St and see the gorgeous front view of The Opera House, then de Ribas St and Tchaikovsky Lane, and the façade faces Langeron St. José de Ribas was Governor of Odessa (1794-7), José de Ribas (1749-1800), Louis de Langeron (1763-1831) and Duc de Richelieu (1766-1822) were political leaders of late C18th and early C19th.

Holy Assumption Cathedral


The area surrounding the Odessa Opera and Ballet Theatre is rich in cultural institutions, protected by UNESCO. National Scientific Library (1829) in Pasteur St was the first public library in Ukraine. Its opening marked the beginning of the foundation of public libraries in all cities of Russian Empire. Today it is the leading socio-cultural centre in Ukraine and the research, methodological and coord-ination centre on library science, bibliography and document management. And see Odessa Literary Museum, Odessa Philharmonic and Musical Comedy Theatre. 

The area also features other cultural heritage sites, although some were recently attacked. Holy Assumption Cathedral in Odessa, founded in 1855 is one of the largest churches in southern Ukraine. From 1936 on it was the cathedral church of the Odessa diocese. It was consecrated by the ​​Archbishop of Kherson and Odessa. The 2-storey church was built at the expense of the merchants Jacob and Nikolai Cherepennikovs according to the project of the architect L. Otton. The height of the temple together with the bell tower is 56 m and the capacity is 5-6 thousand parishioners.

The temple consists of two sections: upper and lower, with three altars in each. The lower church was consecrated in the name of St. Nicholas, its southern chapel in the name of three Saints: St. Basil the Great, St. Gregory the Theologian and St. John Chrysostom.

Odessa National Research Library was the second public library in Russian Empire, founded in1829. Five millions books, periodicals, documents. This museum of old books is an architectural monument in its own right.

National Research Library

Medical University Library

Archaeology Museum

Stolyarsky Music Lyceum
rebuilt after WW2 bombing
Wiki

The stage door to the Opera House in Odessa is on Tchaikovsky Lane. The service entrance is at the back of the opera house. Pyotr Tchaikovsky was born into a Russian noble family (1840-93) composed first symphonic piece, an overture for Aleksandr Ostrovsky’s (1823-1886) drama, The Storm, which many critics considered to be his best symphony (1877-8) premiere of final opera Iolanthe (1892) visited and performed as conductor of his works in Odessa (1893). He died in St Petersburg.

A half of my family lived next to Odessa, but I promise I will never claim these cultural treasures for my grandchildren :)



14 comments:

  1. I hope the opera house doesn't get damaged during this ongoing war

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. diane
      the Russian Opera House in Odessa is elegant on the outside and very gorgeous on the inside. But you are right... the bombing in WW2 was not the last catastrophe that happened to historic Odessa architecture. Recent earthquakes were destructive, and a missile strike in 2023 destroyed the Cathedral. It never ends :(

      Delete
  2. Beautiful buildings, but I skipped most of the text, I'm dopey on antihistamines and need a nap.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. River
      first of all, be well!
      The photos of Odessa architecture will still be here when you bounce back.

      Delete
  3. In the 1941 Siege of Odessa, German and Romanian troops (with Italian aerial support) besieged the port city with aerial bombardment. The houses, schools, factories, port and food supplies were devastated, but so were some special buildings. Stolyarsky Lyceum of Music, for example, wasn't rebuilt until 1952. It is now protected by UNESCO.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Odessa Sights
      I hadn't included the Music Lyceum because it wasn't originally a 19th century building. But it is indeed historically very important and I have added a photo of the 1952 rebuilt version into the post. Thank you for reminding me.

      Delete
  4. Just beautiful, wouldn't it be great to sing and dance there - in a past life I can dream Hels.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Margaret
      Odessa was always presented to me as the cultural capital of the world, and the finest professions to aspire to were literature, architecture, music, the arts etc. My mother and most of her first cousins did just that!!
      But like you, I can but dream.

      Delete
  5. I stayed five minutes around the corner from the Opera House in 2019. A very beautiful building in a city with many beautiful buildings and trees lined boulevards. It was suggested I go to an opera but time did not allow. Rachel

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Rachel
      It is probably too dangerous for you to travel to that part of the world just now. But when you can, make a list of the facilities you would like to examine and photograph, inside and out. Take plenty of time, in the season that suits you best, and then I can publish your material as a Guest Writer :)

      Delete
    2. Thank you Hels, that would be lovely to do. I have a trip booked for overland from London to Sweden next year but hopefully one day I will get back to places such as Ukraine and Russia and Eastern Europe. I hope that peace comes soon.

      Delete
    3. Rachel
      You are so fortunate living in the UK. Joe and I lived in Europe for 3 years, travelling around often by car or train. But once we were back in Australia, plane tickets to Europe were expensive and had to be booked well in advance. So I have been many times since 1970, but rarely to Eastern Europe.

      Delete
  6. It looks like these are some gorgeous buildings. I doubt I will ever get there (although life is full of surprises), so I really enjoyed reading this post and seeing photos of them. I don't know much about that city, but it does have some great architecture. Have a super rest of your weekend.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Erika
    I knew from childhood that Odessa was very cultivated, educated and well preserved architecturally. Even if you have no connection with this city, it is absolutely worth reading its history and visiting in person.

    ReplyDelete