Consumptive chic for women???

Consumptive Chic: History of Beauty, Fashion & Disease 2017 by Dr Carolyn Day examined the connection between fashion and Tuber­culosis/TB. The book was beautifully written and illustrated, but I was angry on women’s behalf while reading. In an era ignorant about TB, the tuber­cular body came to be defined cul­t­urally. During the late 18th-early C19ths this became romant­ic­is­ed i.e people actively redefined notions of the otherwise horrib­le sympt­oms as ideals of beauty.

Dropsy and Consumption flirting outside a mausoleum.
Credit: Wellcome Collection

Illustrated with fashion plates and medical images, this was a clear story of the rise of Consumptive Chic which described the strange link between women’s fashions and medical thinking re TB. Thus two belief systems developed in a connected fashion:

1. Women's in­herent feminine character/way of life rendered them naturally sus­cep­t­ible to contracting TB.

2.  Despite the changing fashions over decades, TB’s symptoms were believed to increase the attractive­ness of its victim over time. Once they contracted TB, patients were indeed more likely to die. But they would be increasingly beautiful as they approached death. The emaciated figure and fev­erish flush of TB victims were positively promoted as a highly desirable appearance. As were the long swan-like necks, large dil­ated eyes, luxurious eye lashes, white teeth, pale comp­lex­ions, blue veins and rosy cheeks.

Women focused on their eyes by painting eye liner and eye shadow onto their faces, even though these eye paints contained dangerous mer­cury (causing kidney damage), radium, lead or antimony oxide (a carcin­ogen). Women placed poisonous nightshade drops in their eyes, to enlargen their pupils. And they bathed in pois­onous arsenic, to make their skin desirably pale. The poison vermillion was worn on the lips as a lush red tint. How brutal, then, that medical writers knew that the fash­ionable way of life of many women actually harmed them.

What would inspire largely educat­ed classes to respond to illness through the channels of fashion? Why would people try to glamorise the symptoms of a deadly disease?? Day showed that consumption was seen to confer beauty on its victim. Yes it was a disease, but one that would become a positive event in women’s lives.

The Victorian corset was a heavy duty clothing apparatus, capable of constricting a woman's waist down to a tiny 17”;  this and an hourglass figure were all the rage in the C19th. Dresses were desig­n­ed to feature the bony wing-like shoulder blades of the consumpt­ive back, emphasising an emaciated frame. Additionally, diaphanous dresses and sandals exposed women to cold weather.

The coughing, emaciation, endless diarrhoea, fever and coughing of phlegm and blood became both a sign of beauty and also a fashion­ab­le disease. As obscene as it seems now, TB was depicted as an easy and beautiful way to fade into death. It was neither!!

Day noted the dis­ease’s connections to the Romantic poets and to scholars in the early C19th. Literary influence was important for educated women; most Romantic writers, artists and composers with TB created a myth that consumption drove male artistic genius. The link coincided with the ideolog­ies of Romanticism, a philosophical movement that opposed the En­lighten­ment through its emphasis on emotion and imag­ination. These men were the best, most intelligent & brightest members of society. Lord Byron (1788-1824), the most notorious of the Romantic poets, noted that his TB affliction caused ladies to look at him with heartbreak. The poet John Keats (1795-1821) embod­ied an example of the refined tubercular artistic genius, doom­ed to a very early death. He was a body too delicate to endure earthly life, but one whose intellect indelibly imprinted on culture.

And artistic women too. The link between TB and ideal femininity was played up by Alexandre Dumas fils whose novel La Dame aux Camélias (1848) presented redemption for immor­al­ity via the suffering of TB. The consumptive model Elizabeth Siddal, the drowned Ophelia in John Everett Millais’ pre-Raphaelite painting of 1851, became an icon for her generation.

There was less interest in the appearance of TB in the lower classes. Not because working women and prostitutes deserved a miserable and painful death, but because the lower classes showed how women real­ly suff­ered TB’s brutal realities. TB was explained away rather realistically in the working classes: miserable living cond­itions, pollution, poor hygiene, poverty, promis­cuity and drunkedness. TB was not romantic and beautiful for working women.

Tuberculosis shaped Victorian fashion
Furman News, 1888

Could the different reactions to TB, the glamorisation of the ill­ness for upper class women Vs the bleak experience of TB in impov­erished Victorian communities, be there to maintain class order in Britain? Perhaps fashion-setters elevated TB as an elegant form of suffering for the upper classes, specifically to create a psychological dis­tance from the unsavoury realities of lower-class disease? No won­der TB victims from the British upper classes were lauded while poor vic­t­ims were stigmatised.

My blog-partner-doctor wanted to know why other diseases like cholera did not have the same cultural impact? Because, Day said, in­fectious diseases followed an epidemic pattern. First they inc­r­eased very quickly; then they slowly faded in intensity and incidence. The course of TB was less flashy than other contagious illnesses, but it still followed a ve ry slow epidemic cycle of infection.

New Medical Knowledge 

A much better understanding of TB came in 1882 when germ theory was described by Louis Pasteur. In that year Robert Koch announced he'd discovered and isolated the micro­­sc­opic bac­teria that cause the disease. Koch’s discovery helped convince public health experts that TB was contagious. And that the victim’s sparkling or dilated eyes, rosy cheeks and red lips were caused by frequent low-grade fever

Preventing the spread of TB led to some of the first large-scale public health campaigns. Doctors began to define long, trailing skirts as causes of disease because they swept up germs from the street. Corsets were also believed to exacerbate TB by limiting move­ment of the lungs and blood circulation. And doctors began prescribing sunbathing as a treatment for TB. Eventually TB was viewed as a pernicious biological force requiring control. The weak and susceptible female gave way to a model of health and strength. 

NB Emily Mullin How Tuberculosis Shaped Victorian Fashion

  

Ophelia, by John Everett Millais, c1852, Tate 

The tubercular model Elizabeth Siddal became an icon for her generation.