29.3.10

The Trans-Siberian Railway

The territory of Siberia is larger than that of all Europe put together and covers about 14 million square kilometres, stretching across taiga and steppes. Despite the size of the territory, the population of Siberia is relatively small - not more than 30 million.
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First class cabin

The rest of Eastern Europe was developing at a great rate of knots in the late C19th. But the development of Siberia was hampered by poor transport links within Siberia and with the rest of the country. Clearly communication alternatives were limited; for 5 months of the year, rivers were the main means of transportation but what happened with the rivers were frozen over?

The first railroad projects in Siberia were mooted after the Moscow-St Petersburg Railway was successfully completed in 1851. Siberia's governor was already anxious to advance the colonisation of the Russian Far East. But from the vantage point of the capital city, St Petersburg, it must have seemed too far and too difficult. The good citizens of Irkutsk, Omsk and Krasnoyarsk, who already lacked the cultivated high life of the western cities, must have been very frustrated.

Train route across Europe and Asia

The plans and funding for the Trans-Siberian Railway to connect the capital, St Petersburg, with the Pacific Ocean port of Vladivostok were approved by Tsar Alexander III. It was his son, future Tsar Nicholas II, who turned the first sod in 1889. The Imperial State Budget spent a gigantic fortune, once construction on the Trans-Siberian Railway was in full flow: 1891-1913.

The main route started in St Petersburg, via Moscow, Chelyabinsk, Omsk, Novosibirsk, Irkutsk, Ulan-Ude, Chita, Blagoveshchensk, Khabarovsk to Vladivostok via southern Siberia. People who are interested in the additional Chinese Eastern Railway should look up its history separately. Suffice it to say it was operated by a Russian staff and administration based in Russian Harbin.

The steppes

The Trans-Siberian Railroad is not a special tourist train, meandering aimlessly around castles, distilleries and ski resorts. It is a working train, for both produce and local travellers. Nonetheless there are two classes of cabins today: a second class, 4-berth compartment or a first class, 2-berth compartment. Only the first class wagons have their own showers. Each long distance train has a special restaurant car where the three meals a day are served; decent dishes using Russian, European and Asian recipes are available. The club room, complete with bar, is available for socialising.

At 9,259 ks, spanning a record 7 time zones and taking c6.5 days to complete the journey, it’s the longest single continuous service in the world. Including Moscow and Vladivostok, it stops at about 18 towns and cities. Visitors are usually impressed by the engineering feats involved in travelling across half the world: bridges, tunnels and super duper railway stations. And the natural world: see the large Siberian rivers, taiga forests, magnificent lakes and endless steppes.

Epic Journeys Around the World concentrated on the Siberian landscape, including the Gobi Desert and Lake Baikal.

Novosibirsk, Nevsky Cathedral

I was more interested in cityscapes, particularly the cities of Novosibirsk and Irkutsk. The large Siberian centre, Novosibirsk (population 1.45 million) really only started in 1883. Yet the Novosibirsk State University has a very fine reputation, the city has an active theatre life and St Alexander Nevsky's Cathedral is gorgeous. Irkutsk (population 600,000) is a beautiful town known as the Paris of Siberia, full of old churches, brightly painted shutters and log houses décorated with wooden lacework. It is a city of museums, literature and sports.

Novosibirsk Theatre


Irkutsk railway station

For a less historical and more personal report on this long railway treck, read Biedjee's blog or David Roger's blog.

25.3.10

Melbourne's lanes: a history

The Hoddle Grid is the layout of the streets in the centre of the central business district of Melbourne. Named after its designer Robert Hoddle, the Grid was laid out in 1837 and later extended. It covers the area from Flinders Street in the south to Queen Victoria Market in the north, and from Spencer Street in the west to Spring Street in the east.

A perfectly designed grid in the centre of town was only possible in a newly created city that was being planned from the ground up. It would not be possible in a city that has developed, willy nilly over the centuries eg Jerusalem. Even a medieval city like Paris could only be straightened up somewhat by Baron Haussman, but it could not be made geometric.

Block Place

Hoddle’s goal was to establish broad boulevards and streets that would be elegant, European (sic), tree lined and spacious enough for any number of horse-drawn carriages – 30 metres wide. He gave many of them royal or vice-regal names. Narrow lanes, he felt, would only attract dirt, poverty and sexual immorality. Yet lanes did appear, exactly splitting the area between the main east-west and north-south boulevards in two. The Hoddle Grid below showed these east-west lanes but didn’t name them.

What Hoddle had not initially understood were the demands of trading. The planner either had to design in proper accessways himself or they would have developed on their own in an ad hoc way. Apparently practicality won over planning purity, and the lanes evolved as accessways between the major streets. Shops, hotels, pubs and offices needed access for their goods, services and customers – and got them. Furthermore, as well as providing access, the lanes enabled these rather densely packed buildings to feel lighter and airier.


Hoddle Grid, 1837

Lane names were never royal; rather their names reflected something of normal city life. A few examples will suffice. Named after Hardware House in the 1920s, Hardware Lane was built on land formerly occupied by Kirk's Horse Bazaar, a horse and livery trading centre built in 1840. The cobbled bluestone alley called Degraves St was named after Charles and William Degraves, pioneer merchants who settled in Melbourne from Hobart in 1849. William Degraves needed access for his sheep grazier business. Albert Coates Lane, named after a surgeon, was once the site of Melbourne's first hospital, and the current lane leads to a preserved pavilion of the former Queen Victoria Hospital.

The History of Melbourne confirmed that small workshops, tobacco and cigarette makers, printers, engravers, plumbers and boot-makers did indeed inhabit the city’s lanes. And they were indeed filled with rubbish bins from the adjoining businesses. No-one took responsibility for the lanes’ lighting, cleanliness or general amenities. It was only when planning for the Olympic Games led to new legislation in 1956 that the lanes were modernised, cleaned up and filled with coffee shops and wine bars.

The Hidden Secrets: Lanes and Arcades Tour was warmly recommended by Mitch's BlogSheSaid Blog, and Bloesem World Tour blog. Intelliblog savours the delicious smells of the many cafés and bakeries that are open in the lanes for the breakfast trade at 7:00 am. I personally may be sound asleep at 7 am, but the heart of this large city is stirring.

Melbourne also features many covered arcades. Some began their life as lanes and were rather ordinary to look at; others began as elegant shopping malls and have remained so till today. But I have already discussed our lovely arcades in this blog before eg Royal Arcade.

Hardware Lane

22.3.10

Afternoon Tea and Tea Dances, from London to Shanghai

I was talking to the students about Anna Russell, Duchess of Bedford (1783–1857), a close friend of Queen Victoria. In Regency times, dinner came to be served later and later until by the early Victorian era, the normal time was as late as 8:30 PM. An extra meal called luncheon had been created to fill the midday gap between breakfast and dinner, but as this new meal was very light, the long afternoon with no refreshment at all left people feeling faint with hunger. In 1840 the Duchess of Bedford found a light meal of cakes and dainty sandwiches with tea in the afternoon got her female friends safely through to dinner. Afternoon tea quickly became an established routine in middle and upper class households.

The White Room offers another explanation that need not be contradictory. They say the concept of the afternoon tea traces its origin back to the French colonisation of Morocco. And presumably because Europeans were not all familiar with the custom, books on Victorian Era etiquette included instructions for hosting such gatherings.
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Tea-Time, James Tissot, 1872, private collection

Afternoon Tea, Francisco Miralles, c1875, private collection

The Tea, Mary Cassatt, 1880, MFA Boston

Clearly Victorian afternoon tea started as an English-based custom in a feminine space, filled with flowers, soft tea dresses, polished silver and pastel table cloths. Afternoon tea continued to be very fashionable throughout the Edwardian period and before war broke out, when the Argentinean Tango arrived, London’s loveliest hotels began to host tea dances. These tea dances often had a live, palm-court orchestra playing light classical music. So as well as the tangos, people at tea dances loved to do the waltz.

Palm court, Waldorf Hotel London

There are plenty of records that suggest that the tea dance became popular again after the war ended and continued to be an important social event into the inter-war period. But did the English take their customs to wherever they found themselves in far flung countries?

In the early C20th, The Astor House was the finest hotel in Shanghai, where ex-pat Britons, sundry Europeans and wealthy Chinese business peoples loved to spend time. Largely protected from the nightmares of WW1, the hotel’s ballroom was remodelled during the war and the concept of tea dances was introduced. Held every afternoon in the ballroom, the custom quickly spread to The Palace and Majestic Hotels. Shanghai’s well heeled citizens, with leisure time to fill, were delighted to wile away their afternoons, pouring tea out of silver pots and dancing on the ballroom floor. At least until World War Two.

Shanghai Peninsula, lobby, set up for a tea dance, 2009

How interesting then that The Peninsula Shanghai has once again revived the tradition of the Afternoon Tea Dance every Sunday. This is when guests can relive the languid glamour of the city’s golden days; not only dainty sandwiches and Devonshire teas, but even The Peninsula’s 18-piece big band is attracting patronage. Afternoon tea may have been a British custom since the Duchess of Bedford’s friends were peckish, but now it seems to be appealing to a different generation and a very different country.

After I had already written this post, I found one by Laura Porter on Tango Tea Dances at London's Waldorf Hilton. "In the 1920s, tango tea dances were an essential part of social life and quickly became the trademark of The Waldorf Hilton hotel. As part of its centenary celebrations, the Tango Tea has returned. Hilton first reintroduced Tango Tea in June 2007 and has been holding the events regularly ever since". The event includes an open dance floor for guests, a live five piece band, dance shows from professionals and plenty of finger food. This is wonderful - the cycle has now completed itself.

18.3.10

Villa Tugendhat: the Bauhaus in Czechoslovakia

A friend gave me the very fine novel The Glass Room by Simon Mawer to read, a book that is set primarily in a house inspired by Villa Tugendhat. Wise choice, since my favourite architects in all the world were Le Corbusier, Walter Gropius and Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. In fact I have talked about Le Corbusier, Mies and the Bauhaus in this blog before.

German architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe joined the Bauhaus design school as the director of architecture during the middle 1920s, using their functionalist use of simple geometric forms in design. Villa Tugendhat was one of his important projects. Started in 1928, the villa was built in Brno in the Czech Republic for Greta and Fritz Tugendhat and was completed by 1930.

Villa Tugendhat, Brno, 1930

Like all good Bauhaus modernists, Mies privileged rationality and functionality over form. In allowing the inside space to be flooded with light, Mies had to find some sort of iron framework that enabled him to limit the role of supporting walls. And since the hill-top location was stunning, Mies wanted nothing to take away from people inside the home being able to enjoy the views, as you will see from Rory Wilmer’s excellent photos.

Just as well the Tugendhats had made money in the textile industry. The cost of building this large villa was very high due to the unusual construction method, the exotic materials that Mies surprisingly chose and the modern technologies of heating and ventilation. Christopher's Expat Adventure reminds us that one of Mies’ huge windows is motorised and retracts.

I say surprisingly because Bauhaus architects tended to add very few decorative elements for their own sake. Yet Mies used naturally patterned materials such an onyx and rare tropical woods on some of the interior walls. Perhaps he compromised his architectural principles to keep his clients happy.


Light and airy interior, with stunning views

Family money didn’t protect this Jewish family however. They were lucky to survive the Holocaust, and of course they had to leave all their assets behind.

To mark the importance of Bauhaus modernism, the villa has been open to the public as a state museum for the last 15 years. Fortunately Villa Tugendhat was designated a World Heritage Site in 2001. Since then, restoration of the villa has started, carefully retaining the integrity of Mies’ original design.

15.3.10

Empress of Ireland: a 1914 shipping tragedy

In the hundred years before WW2 started, tens of millions of people left Europe in search of a better life in the New World. It was as though everyone was on the move, and no city did better out of this movement than Liverpool.

Advertising poster for the two Empresses, 1906

Canadian Pacific Line built ships specifically to pick up the immigrants, out of Europe via Liverpool and into Canada. Two purpose-built ships were The Empress of Ireland and The Empress of Britain, launched in 1906. Larger, faster and more comfortable than other ships built for this route, they soon became very popular. The Empress of Ireland provided accommodation for 310 first-class passengers, 470 second-class passengers and 750 third-class passengers, giving a total payload of 1,580 paying clients. Life aboard was comfortable for 1st and 2nd class passengers, but not the last word in luxury.

Leaving Europe, immigrants to Canada on the Empress, 1910

The Empress of Ireland left Quebec City for Liverpool on the 25th of May 1914 with 1,477 passengers and crew. It was sailing down the Saint Lawrence River and sank after a collision at 2 AM with a Norwegian ship, in impossibly dense fog. If people would like to read the details of the crash, I recommend two blogs: Curling History  and the Nineteen Keys and the Lure of a Furious Sea.
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Most people on board were sound asleep in their cabins. The liner sank in 14.5 minutes and the only people who escaped were those on the upper decks; they had time to get out of bed and into life boats, before their cabins were flooded. Had all the passengers been awake, they were so close to shore (6.5 ks) they could have practically saved themselves on local fishing boats.

This accident claimed 1,024 passenger and crew lives, making it the most catastrophic maritime disaster in Canadian history. Compare this tragedy with the better known Titanic when 1517 people died, only two years early.

Sinking of the Empress of Ireland, Life Magazine, 1914

The sinking of the Empress of Ireland in May 1914 was a totally unplanned civilian accident, not an act of war. But I wonder if people in Europe already felt that war was imminent and that 1914 was going to be their last opportunity to find a new life abroad. And World War One did indeed start in September 1914.

The irony was that the Empress was on a return trip TO Liverpool when it sank. In fact the passengers included a large delegation (167) of members of the Canadian Salvation Army band who were excited to be going to London for an international conference. At Mt Pleasant Cemetery in Toronto there is a moving monument to those 167 drowned Salvation Army delegates.

The Empress of Ireland Pavilion in Quebec presents the history of the Empress of Ireland, from its building in the Liverpool docks in 1906 to its tragic sinking in Quebec in 1914. In particular it displays artefacts from the wreckage of the ocean liner. The Pointe-au-Père Lighthouse, which was erected in 1909 and is one of the tallest in Canada, played a central role in navigation history on the St Lawrence River. On the other side of the Atlantic, exhibitions from the Titanic, Lusitania and the Forgotten Empress gallery are at the Merseyside Maritime Museum in Liverpool.

Empress of Ireland Pavilion, Pointe-au-Père, Quebec

Genealogy Canada blog was extremely helpful. She noted that the ship is basically still intact today, lying at the bottom of the river near Point-au-Pere. History Center blog recorded that the owner of the Norwegian ship, the Storstad, was later forced to sell her for $750,000 after a law suit was won by the owners of the Empress of Ireland for $2,000,000.

10.3.10

Chaffey Brothers irrigation pioneers: Australia, Canada, USA

Chaffey Brothers Building, La Trobe University, Mildura

During my trip to Mildura last year, I couldn’t help but notice the number of places named for the Chaffey family – a high school, hotel, self-guided tourist trail, street, bridge, an aged care centre, a university building and a scout pack. Zmobi blog particularly discussed the Chaffeys’ Rio Vista homestead and the Chaffey family graves. Who was this family who so dominated the consciousness of a medium sized rural city in the most remote part of Victoria? Discover the Murray and The Irrigation Colony of Mildura were particularly helpful.

In the early 1880s, the Victorian government began examining the possibility of establishing irrigation colonies on the Murray River. A Royal Commission was chaired by Alfred Deakin, the then Chief Secretary and Minister for Water Supply, and later the Prime Minister of Australia after Federation. It was held to examine Victoria's water resources and it was decided to establish one such colony. In 1884 Deakin led a delegation to the USA where he met brothers George (1848-1932) and W Ben Chaffey (1856-1926). These Canadian born and educated engineers had later moved to California and had established irrigation colonies there.

Alfred Deakin was impressed with the Chaffeys, and the Chaffeys were interested enough in Deakin's proposals to send their manager to Victoria in 1885. After a promising report from the manager, George Chaffey visited Victoria in 1886 and having decided on the Mildura Run as a suitable location for an irrigation colony, he told his brother to sell up their Californian interests.

Note that The Mildura Run was already in liquidation at this time! As early as 1864 the three governments concerned had met to discuss the construction of a system of weirs on the Murray and Darling rivers, to control the cycles of flood and drought that seriously disrupted river traffic for months at a time.

Vines, Mildura

Never mind! In October 1886 after months of negotiations with Deakin, the Chaffey brothers signed an agreement for the establishment of an irrigation colony on the Mildura Run. However this agreement was rejected by the Victorian parliament, many of whose members were suspicious of these Americans (sic) whilst others were concerned about the effect of such a scheme on river navigation. This was despite considerable support for the agreement in the press. The Argus Newspaper, Oct 1886 wrote glowing of Mildura’s future.

The Chaffeys negotiated with the South Australian government and in February 1887 they signed an agreement securing 250,000 acres at the town of Renmark. The Victorian government, meanwhile, had not received a satisfactory tender for the Mildura run, and eventually The Chaffey Brothers Agreement was passed by both Houses of Parliament. In May 1887 an indenture was signed for 250,000 acres of the old Mildura run, which the Chaffeys took. Under the terms of this Agreement, all the details about blocks, money, subdivisions, seasonal water rights and irrigation channels were specified. Prospective settlers or investors could purchase irrigated blocks which the company Chaffey Brothers Ltd would managed, for an annual fee.

Added to the technical difficulties involved in getting water to the crops, there were inter-colonial water wars over the Murray River. The Premier of New South Wales, Sir Henry Parkes, heard that water was being pumped from the river and called the Chaffeys trespasssers. The South Australians sided with NSW and wanted the matter taken to the Privy Council in London. These endless wars meant George Chaffey called for an Inter colonial Trust for the regulation of the use of the River Murray. Nothing much has changed 130 years!

The district started receiving better rainfall that it had for many years and the breaking of the drought in NSW in 1889 led to floods and good rains for the next three years. By 1890 the colony had 3600 acres planted to horticulture. In these early years trees were usually preferred to vines, especially stone and citrus fruit. By 1894 there were plenty of acres planted with these fruit. However many of these trees were dying, due to a combination of inexperience on the part of the settlers and inappropriate tree types. In 1890 the Chaffey brothers established their own nursery to solve the problem.

The first vines recommended for planting were Muscat Gordo Blanco. Sun dried Gordos were sent to the Melbourne markets in 1894, but merchants thought the fruit was too dark. Sultanas were not recommended initially, but by 1894 sultanas had been planted throughout the colony. In fact they became the main variety of vine planted.

The Red Book

The Chaffeys, especially George, invested in other business ventures in Mildura and elsewhere. These included a brickworks, an engineering company, a timber mill and in 1888 The River Murray Navigation Co. In the early years of settlement, favourable conditions meant Mildura could rely mostly on river transport with freight and passengers going downstream to Morgan for a railway connection to Adelaide, and upstream to Swan Hill and Echuca, for connections to Melbourne. And George Chaffey designed the very comfortable, spacious vessel: Pearl.

Chaffey Bros Ltd heavily promoted their irrigation colonies in the Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney and London press with advertisements supported by testimonials by prominent politicians. They also had a publication, The Australian Irrigation Colonies, known as The Red Book, which was to be subject of criticism for its many errors. Yet the campaign attracted hundreds of people to move to Australia.. to Mildura.

Whilst such misleading advertising may have caused some city based investors to lose money, those who settled in Mildura and invested their labour and money were worse off. Many had come from overseas, investing their all in the colony only to be confronted by the reality of having to live in tents in the hot, dry climate. The climate of course remains problematic today.

The Chaffeys must have been doing well. Mike & Carol's Bushtracker Adventures Around Australia has a photo of the Old Mildura Homestead which was recreated to recall the very first red gum slab Chaffey homestead. Compare this to their grand house, Rio Vista (see photo below), which was built for the family by 1891.

One aspect that was not mentioned to me anywhere in Mildura was that The Chaffey colonies were initially temperance colonies, modelled on their Californian ones.  A letter to The South Western News 9/3/1950 suggests they were strict teetotallers who used their influence to prevent a licence being issued in the district of Renmark! Did temperance make a difference to success in the Mildura project? Were they motivated by a religious impulse in their family and work lives?

Rio Vista, the Chaffey family home

Under the terms of the colony agreement, each grower was entitled to 'sufficient' water. An Irrigation Trust initially controlled by the Chaffeys was responsible for water supply, but there was disagreement over what constituted a sufficient supply. Some settlers had suffered 3 years of failed crops and simply could not afford to pay their water rates. Strike over non-payment of wages and poor working conditions erupted. Finally in May 1894, Alfred Deakin and members of the Royal Commission on Water Use and Supply had to travel to Mildura to sort out the problem.

On allotments that were owned or managed by the Chaffeys, plantings were generally successful and the blocks were well cultivated, due to the large workforce. It was thus evident that with intensive labour, good horticultural practices and an adequate supply of water crops would thrive, although variable seasonal conditions remained.

However there still remained the problem of getting produce to markets in good condition, and at the right prices. This remained a major problem for the district until the arrival of the railway in 1903. By the time fresh fruit arrived in Melbourne after shipment overland to Swan Hill and rail from there, it was usually in very poor condition, and at the height of summer even worse. It was such problems that prompted most growers to eventually and successfully concentrate on dried fruit production.

Chaffey Brothers Ltd was in dire straits financially by this time and in March 1894 George left for the USA and England in attempt to raise a 100,000 pound debenture loan to remedy the situation. The Argus in Melbourne printed an article entitled 'Is Mildura Worth Saving?' Ben Chaffey also travelled overseas in an attempt to raise money, but in December 1895 the company went into liquidation and the Victorian government held a Royal Commission into its affairs in 1896.

The enquiry found no actual breach of contract by the company but was highly critical of its financial management. Creditors were owed 270,000 pounds, mostly the responsibility of shareholder George Chaffey. The dream was over. In December 1895 the First Mildura Irrigation Trust was constituted by an Act of Parliament to 'conduct and control the supply of water for irrigation purposes'. George returned to the USA after the enquiry and died in 1932. Ben Chaffey may have considered going with him, but couldn’t sell Rio Vista. Instead he remained as a fruit-grower and the first mayor of Mildura, until his death in 1926.

A grateful Australian city memorialised George Chaffey

7.3.10

The Tichborne Claimant

Tichborne Park, situated in gorgeous Hampshire farmland, is the well-known seat that was the centre of the then-longest civil court case in British history. The five-bedroom apartment has a tennis court and use of the swimming pool, and is being marketed for a hefty £6,850 pcm. I assumed everyone knew the story of the Tichborne Claimant, but since the family house has been back in the news, it is apparently worth telling the story again.

Tichborne House, Hampshire

Roger Charles Tichborne was born in 1829 in Paris into an important and devout Catholic family whose ancestors had been ennobled by King James I. When the 8th Baronet Henry Joseph Tichborne died in 1845, leaving only daughters, the title passed to the next brother Edward.

Roger was raised in France with his mother, until the age of 16 and was fluent in French. Then in 1849 his father sent the young man to Stonyhurst College in England and later that year joined the 6th Dragoon Guards in Dublin. He spoke English well but with a marked French accent and was teased for being skinny and deeply Catholic.

Next year he left for South America. From Valparaiso he crossed the Andes and arrived in Rio de Janeiro in 1854. In 1853 Edward died and the title and the family estate passed to Roger's father. In April 1854, on Roger's way back home, his ship was lost at sea with all hands, and he was soon pronounced dead. Roger's father died in 1862 and the title and property passed to Roger's younger brother, Sir Alfred. Alfred died in 1866 and his baby son, Henry, inherited the family privileges.

Arthur Orton, 1872

On learning the news of her eldest son's shipping tragedy, Sir Roger's grief stricken mother refused to admit that he was dead. She sent inquiries all over the world, and in November 1865, she received a letter from a Sydney lawyer who claimed that a man supposedly fitting the description of her son was living as a butcher in the rural town of Wagga Wagga.

The supposed Sir Roger was actually Thomas Castro or Arthur Orton, a man who did not speak a word of French. In fact Weird History blog said he was Arthur “Bullocky” Orton was more than just a slaughter man; he was a sometime bushranger and horse thief. And he was grossly overweight, 21 stone, compared to the 10 stone Sir Roger.

However Lady Tichborne was desperate enough to accept him as her son and sent him money to come to her. Orton was encouraged to travel to Britain by an old friend of Roger's father, a man who accompanied him on his trip home. He arrived in London on Christmas Day 1866 and visited the family estates. There he met the Tichborne family solicitors who became his supporters. Then in January he travelled to the Paris hotel where Lady Tichborne was living, the dowager recognised him instantly as her son and gave him a hefty annual allowance.

After Lady Tichborne's acceptance, other family members and colleagues of Sir Roger accepted him as well. But some family members were horrified by this badly spoken, obese, outback Australian butcher. When Lady Tichborne died in March 1868, Orton lost his most prominent supporter and the family couldn’t wait to sue the man.

Tichborne House in Hampshire was the family seat that was the centre of this very long civil court case. Orton had to sell The Tichborne Bonds, to pay the legal costs entailed in claiming his inheritance from the family.

The Tichborne Trial, 1871

The trial to establish his inheritance began in May 1871 and lasted 102 days. Dozens and dozens of people vouched for Orton‘s identity as Roger, except for Orton's own brother. There is one other consideration that I have never heard analysed before.  Orton was a practicing Protestant, and theowinthrop fully believes that this was the key to the massive upsurge of popular support. Anti-Catholicism was still the biggest bigotry alive in Britain back then. Knowing that Orton was a good Protestant, being "cheated" out of his rights, led many other Protestants to support him to the point of idiocy

Eventually the evidence of the Tichborne family eventually convinced the jury. Orton was arrested, charged with perjury and his criminal trial began in 1873. Orton was convicted on two counts of perjury in Feb 1874, and was sentenced to 14 years' hard labour. The legal costs amounted to a truly staggering £200,000 at the time.

Many people who had supported the claimant's efforts refused to believe the truth and claimed he was unjustly persecuted. Still, Orton served ten years in prison and was released in 1884, and by then the newspapers had long moved on to other, more juicy gossip. He died in poverty in April 1898 and was buried with the name Sir Roger Charles Doughty Tichborne on his coffin.

Arthur Orton’s carte-de-visite with its photograph is in the National Portrait Gallery in Canberra.

4.3.10

Esperanto, Ludwig Zamenhof and world understanding

Eliezer Levi Samenhof aka Ludwig Zamenhof (1859–1917) was born in the town of Białystok, then in the Russian Empire and now in Poland near the Belarussian border. He trained firstly in general medicine and then specialised in opthalmology.

Zamenhof spoke of his native language as being his father's Russian (although some people have suggested that Belarusian would be more accurate), but he spoke his mother's Yiddish as his main family language. It is interesting that once Ludwig’s own children were born, Polish became the home language of his children. German of course was not difficult for him to pick up, since Yiddish is in any case 70% German. Later he learned French, Latin, Greek, Hebrew and English well, and a couple of other European languages less well.

Just to make the question of languages personal, my own grandfather spoke Yiddish as his home language and Russian as his day-to-day school and work language. He too spoke excellent German and Polish by the time he was a young adult, but he had to learn French, Hebrew and English the hard way – via language classes and books. Greek and Latin would have been out of the question for Jewish males in my grandparents' part of Russia (now the Ukraine). But one language my grandfather had over Zamenhof was Italian. Australia was filling up with Italian migrants in the 1950s and 60s, and no professional could afford not to learn Italian.

Anyhow in addition to the Yiddish-speaking Jewish majority, the population of Białystok had lots of Poles, Germans and Belarusians. There were endless struggles between the subgroups of this part of the Russian Empire, which I would put down to religious and political differences, but Zamenhof thought otherwise. He believed that the main reason for hatred lay in mutual misunderstanding, caused by the lack of a common language that everyone could understand, regardless of their different ethnic backgrounds. Was he naïve in thinking that a shared language could play the role of a neutral communication tool between peoples?

After years of working on this new international language, the first book of Esperanto grammar (The Unua Libro) was published in Warsaw in July 1887, in Russian. Zamenhof was a productive thinker and writer; he also spent years translating literature into Esperanto.

The linguists say that as a modern language designed from the ground up, Esperanto is not genealogically related to any specific language. The sound, grammar, vocabulary and semantics are largely based on the western Indo-European languages. The semantics are essentially Slavic, while the vocabulary derives primarily from the Romance languages, with some words coming from German. Pragmatics and other aspects of the language not specified by Zamenhof's original documents were influenced by the native languages of early speakers, as you might expect: Russians, Poles, Germans and French-speakers.


Esperanto's flag is a green rectangle with a smaller white square, and a green star superimposed in the top left corner. See English Cafe.com for the complete flag and its symbolism.

The number of speakers grew rapidly over the next few decades, at first largely in the Russian Empire and Eastern Europe, then in Western Europe and abroad. Journals appeared. Finally in 1905, the first world congress of Esperanto speakers was held in France. Since then world congresses have been held in different countries every year, except during both World Wars.

Providentia blog is excellent on the history of Esperanto in the era of rising Fascism in Central and Eastern Europe. "In his work, Mein Kampf, Adolf Hitler specifically mentioned Esperanto as a tool of international Jewish Conspiracy and the language that they would use once they dominated the world. It probably didn't help that Esperanto use became popular in Eastern Europe and the Soviet Union and, as such, became strongly associated with Bolshevik movements".

Almost no-one in the entire universe speaks Esperanto with their children at home, instead of a more usual native language. Probably some 10 million people have studied it at school or university, but only one university in the world gives its lectures and tutorials in Esperanto: Akademio Internacia de la Sciencoj, San Marino.

For Zamenhof and other Esperanto fans, this language was far from being merely a communication tool. Rather I think they saw it as a way of promoting the peaceful coexistence of different people and cultures. But this was the very goal that made nervous national leaders turn against Esperanto. Nazi Germany, for example, prohibited Esperanto and gaoled its followers because a] Zamenhof was Jewish, b] Esperanto was internationalist, not nationalist and c] most followers were pro-peace and anti-war. Joseph Stalin believed that Esperanto was the language of spies; his henchmen killed several thousand Esperanto-speakers in 1937, calling them Enemies of the People.

Zamenhof had not been an avid supporter of a Jewish homeland because he was "profoundly convinced that every nationalism offers humanity only the greatest unhappiness". But all this international understanding didn't help the Zamenhof family. Ludwig died from a heart attack in 1917, only 3 years into the War to End All Wars. And as Providentia blog explained, Ludwig's three children were all shot by the Nazis during the next war - two of them had been brilliant doctors and one was a noted educator. Had they escaped to a Jewish homeland by 1939, the family might not have been exterminated.

Advertising for an Esperanto Conference in Bern.

2.3.10

Restauradores Plaza, Lisbon - guest article

My husband and I lived for a few years in Britain and we know France, Italy and Spain from long visits, but I am embarrassed to say that we've never visited Portugal. Thus I am delighted to introduce readers to a Lisbon-based guest blogger.

Joao selected his own topic but as it happens, he selected very well. The square's name refers to the time of the restoration in 1640, the reestablishment of Portuguese independence after decades of Spanish rule. The successful revolt against Spain is still celebrated today, in the Praça dos Restauradores, as a national holiday. If I get a chance to be in Lisbon, December will be the most exciting time. Now, over to Joao.
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In this guest post let me take you on a small walk on the surroundings of my favourite square in Lisbon's downtown, the Restauradores Plaza. Very easy to reach using the subway, this spot it is home to several beautiful pieces of architecture. The Avenida Palace Hotel building is for me the one that marks the place - built more than a hundred years ago, it is neo-classic style is still nowadays absolutely amazing.

Avenida Palace

Walking only a few dozen metres, we can stop at the Rossio's Plaza entrance. Surrounded by a set of very old buildings (dated from around 1800) it is a very nice place to visit - special attention to the Theatre building (in the photo to the left) and to the view of the castle.

Named after Saint George, the castle is called "Castelo de São Jorge" in Portuguese and the fortress itself is also a must see place - very well preserved and with one of the best Lisbon views. In a more historical note it was originally called the Moorish Castle and it was conquered by the first Portuguese king, D. Afonso Henriques, in 1147 after resisting a siege for more than three months.

Castle

Another thing we can always count on appreciating when in Lisbon are the long hours of sun that make the city so warm. Of course in the summer it maybe a bit too warm but still the city has many, many patios and small plazas like the one bellow (behind Rossio's Central Train Station) who hold lots of coffee shops where one can rest for a while and enjoy a refreshing ice cream or a nice cold beer.

Patios

Well, for now it's all. It was a pleasure sharing with you this small piece of my town. Hope you liked the mini-tour and I'm counting with some of you to increase our tourist numbers here in Lisbon ok ;)

Regards & Cheers,
Joao
Vacation and Travel Photos